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I fucking love HeartGold.
The whole Johto region has this ancient eastern feel to it, tons of comfy areas, and the little slides that pop up right when you enter a new area a la LeafGreen are great. Returning to Kanto, the many different Pokeballs, and fighting Red are also big selling points for me.
Also has my favorite legendaries, Ho Oh and Raikou.
I will always love HeartGold. Johto or bust.