>>1124288>uses water-based ANYTHING to 'clean' ferrous metal moving parts>is SO SURPRISED when it rusts!You're not good at mechanical maintenance, are you?
You NEVER, EVER use water-based ANYTHING to clean/degrease/whatever a mechanical assembly of moving parts like the drivechain of a bicycle. All that scrubbing you did? You forced water and soap ('degreaser', or whatever the hell it is) into the rollers themselves, forcing out any actual lubricant that might have been in there. Once that happens there's no way in hell you can get it all out again. Then you attempt (emphasis on 'attempt', because it doesn't work) to put whatever lube you have onto the chain, and it doesn't penetrate the links at all, doesn't displace the soapy water that's now in there. Even if you had baked the chain in a 300 degree oven for a couple hours, you wouldn't have been able to get all that contamination (read as: soapy water) out of the chain, there would be some residue left which would prevent even the most penetrating of lubricants from getting in there.
Too long, didn't read? CHAIN IS FUCKED. Can't be saved now. Throw it away, buy a new one.
Now, in the future:
* Use only ACTUAL SOLVENT to clean a chain, nothing water-based, EVER. The kind of solvent that evaporates away completely.
* So long as you're not riding in the rain all the time, you don't even have to use solvent on the chain every time, only every other time or every 3rd time. Depends on how dirty it is.
* GET A CHAIN CLEANING MECHANISM. You do not (and should not!) remove the chain to clean and lube it, and in fact it's easier with it on the bike.
* Do not use any so-called 'chain lube' that has WATER in it, at all, EVER. Use something like pic related, half a drop per roller. A bottle will set you back less than $15, and will last you anywhere from months to a year, depending on how much you ride (and therefore how often you need to lube the chain).
Now.. go forth and transgress no more.
