>>1938219bikegremlin also says that wax isn't very water resistant fwiw. generally speaking, wet lube is thicker, on the extreme end you have grease for bearings and such to resist water. some pro mechanics are said to use wet lube and then cover the chain in grease to protect the lube in a very rainy race. pure wax on the other hand, is very thin so it could get displaced, abraded by contaminants that gets flung onto it, or washed out eventually. i want to make some kind of hybrid lube based on hydraulic mineral oil, diluted with kerosene (lamp oil - less smelly version of kerosene), wax, orange oil and with PTFE added to it. at the most basic level, the principle is similar to bikegremlin's suggestion of using diluted chainsaw bar oil (a common suggestion for arborists is to dilute chainsaw bar oil with kerosene, and bikegremlin acknowledges that hydraulic fluid has good lubricating properties, but he recommends chainsaw bar oil because it's cheaper). i could vary the ratios depending on the season to make it lighter for less friction and better cleanliness in dry conditions, or make it more oily for winter riding.
>As it was mentioned in chapter 7.2. (PTFE), some dry lubricants, even after applying them to the chain and leaving to dry, remain a little liquid, a bit “oily”. They are somewhere in between the wet and dry lubes, in terms of water (both washout and rust) and dirt resistance.>They can be made with lots of dry lubricant additives and high quality ester oils that stick well to the metal. They can also be just a marketing hype of people selling ordinary “thin” lube at a high price.>These lubricants are often advertised as “universal”, “all (weather) conditions”, “road and off-road” and similar, since they are not “pure” dry, nor wet lubricants. 