>>1344825I was surprised to find that Russian phone coverage was excellent from Vytegra south. What a luxury to have continuous internet access in what were, for me, such remote areas.
Because of bridge and overhead cable restrictions (15 m maximum) we had to remove Tainui’s mast in Vytegra. Were I to do the trip again I would take a sketch with mast clearance height of 14 metres – that would allow for some gorgeous sailing. For us, mast removal was a worrying affair because the huge floating crane, capable of 200-ton loads, was just too big and cumbersome for the delicate job. We managed, but not without some very anxious moments. We soon became accustomed to the 3 m of mast projecting from our bow and stern, but lock work required extra care. Careful advance planning and construction of the support system is important.
We did not encounter corruption and paid no bribes.
Waterway fees totalled around USD800 and accounting by the river authorities was scrupulous.
We had no security issues with the boat. Small boat clubs along the rivers were without exception welcoming and their hospitality was generous, at times overwhelming.
Of the Volga-Don trip, I can only say that as an Australian I found every day a quite magical experience. What wonderful rivers they are! The endless secluded anchorages, vast inland seas, rich forested shores, sparkling onion dome churches, fascinating commercial shipping, the warmth and friendliness of the local people – all are a delight. After 40 years of ocean voyaging, I am finding my search for novelty less often required, but this Russian voyage has been wonderful – life-changing even.
