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I did the Bernina line this weekend and it's both better and worse than in the usual years.
Worse because there are more Swiss locals using it between Pontresina~Bernina/Alp Grüm, crowding the train with even more mask wearers.
Better because there are very few people actually doing the whole route, I was able to switch between sides to enjoy the Poschiavo valley through the open windows.
Of course the /n/-approved way to do both the Bernina-Express and Glacier-Express is to disregard the tourist panorama trains and use the local trains.
