>>1260766>longer commutes (30-50 minutes)so around 10 km ?
for this I recommend and sprung seat and slightly more upright seating position
its possible to average 25 kph in a fair amount of comfort
I found this from bikes like 1970s Schwinn Suburban and 1930s dutch bike
>27.5 wheels, front suspension hard tail MTBnot ideal for long distance travel
you will not notice this at first
>can I trust bike parts to be what the seller claims them to be?fakes are easy to spot by material selection and finish
>Can no name bikes be considered or should they be disregarded immediately?problem with no name bikes are bad shifter and brakes
they are made from the wrong metals and in are of the wrong dimensions and thickness
low performance and they quickly wear out + get damaged easy
>like the breaks straight up not workingpoint of failure is the hand levers and the brake pads them self's coming loose
further back cable failure is fairly normal
>frame snapping?there is a very low chance of this in the heavy (15kg+) steel frames
alloy frames can suffer a build up of micro fractures but this is only problem on very light and old frames
>If I get that bike and find a specific part not to my liking, could I just change it relatively simply?yes very easy to change for older pre 1990s tech bikes
however their are some newer parts that are a pita
>twist grip shiftif I find a bike with a worn out/locked up twist grip
its best to replace this part with thumb lever friction shiftier
>disk brakeslots of different bolt patterns and mounting positions also no standard shape or size of brake pad
>new rear derailleur on alloy frameeach brand of frame has its own shape of sacrificial derailleur hanger
made of weak alloy so that it snaps off instead of damaging the chain stays
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fa/Dahon_Jack_RD_hanger.JPG 