>>1099461Engine oil is intended to be pumped around under pressure, and then flow back down to the sump under gravity. It'll fly right off a bike chain and do absolutely nothing for you.
Gear oil is much more viscous and is designed to be used in a 'splash lubrication' system like you find in a manual transmission or other type of gearbox -- but it's still not designed to be used out in the open, is sticky and attracts dirt (which will ruin your drivetrain) and otherwise will tend to fly off anything spinning. So it's out, too.
New bike chains, when they're being assembled, have some actual grease applied internally to the rollers. As such you don't have to clean or lube a brand-new chain for several hundred miles of even hard use. Cleaning and lubing a new chain is a waste of time and resources, and ultimately isn't very good for the chain anyway.
Using any sort of water-based 'wax' chain lube isn't very smart. Chains rust, you don't want to put water on them at all, ever. It just shortens the life of the chain. Additionally the factory lube, mixed with water, just turns to a useless mud. Bad idea. Avoid.
'Dry' lubes are okay, but you have to apply them more often.
Personally I use Dumonde Tech Lite. It penetrates, then the carrier evaporates, leaving behind a synthetic wet lube that creates a barrier against dirt and grit, yet reduces friction. You only need a half a drop, carefully applied, per roller. Spin the drivetrain for a few minutes, then let it dry, wipe off the excess with a clean rag or paper towel with some (non-water based!) solvent on it. Clean and lube the chain every 200-500 miles, or when it starts making noise.
While we're on the subject, replace your chain at the first sign of stretching. Chains are cheap, chainrings and cassettes are expensive; you'll get much more overall lifespan (and better performance) out of your drivetrain this way.
