Other thread is here
>>1120300 on auto-sage, so time for a new one.
short fast question, pic not related.
i just cleaned my road bike, removed chain cause im gonna put a new one. transmission (cassette, chainring, etc) is 100% degreased and dry.
when i install the new chain (shimano ultegra for a 105 drivetrain, road bike of course). do i need to lube it? or am i ok with factory lube and just have to put it on and im ready to go?
thanks!
Anonymous
o forgot to put /BQG/ on the ubjet, did i fugg up?
Anonymous
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>>1127364 That's alright.
And there's no need to lube a new chain, the factory lube will last you for a couple of rides, as soon as it gets a little noisy, oil that fucker
Anonymous
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thanks youre my new angel
Anonymous
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>>1127360 Factory lube is great, it's fine until it isn't then it's fucked
Anonymous
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>>1127360 The grease on a new chain is really sticky and picks up dirt like there's no tomorrow. It's just to prevent rusting while sitting in storage for fuck knows how long.
Degrease that fucker, and use proper chain lube.
Anonymous
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>>1127360 What are the most important lessons you've learnt in your time riding anons?
for me:
>Every time you re-oil your chain, you should clean it first >Rims need about 1 spoke per 3 Kg of bodyweight minimum, more if you ride hard, MTB or carry cargo/tour. Heavier gauge and steel is a decent way to go if you're carrying 110 Kg or over. >Bike fit counts for a pretty decent chunk of how you perform on a bike long term >Cleats should be slightly forward of the front ball of your foot to get more posterior chain activation >Shorts are better than bibs everyday of the week The Roman Emperor Biggus Diccus
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>>1127360 >Not buying KMC chains Why tho lad?
Anyway, the factory lube is pretty good, but only because it's completely penetrated into the rollers of the chain. replace it with good oil after 75-100 miles at the most.
The main thing you gotta do with your chain is just to keep the grit out of it, which causes premature wear; other than that the lube type you use makes a negligible difference for most mortals whether you spend $5 or $50.
Always err on the side of more protection rather than gaining .005 of a Watt by buying meme-marketed "superlube." Keeping crud out of the driveline which would otherwise form an abrasive paste is what matters for regular riders.
Anonymous
One of my more crackpot ideas that I've wanted to do was to take an old Raleigh Sports English 3-speed, and turn it into an offroading bike for things like light trail riding and for logging roads. I wanted to try to keep it as stock-looking as possible with the exception of the handlebars. I'm well aware that as it stands, its 3-speed hub is not good for this at all considering how high geared it is. However, I just came across this while perusing eBay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Sturmey-Archer-1969-S5-5-speed-Rear-Hub-40h-Raleigh-Sprite-Chopper-Rare/182903276009?hash=item2a95e281e9:g:n~QAAOSwke9aDNI7 Would this be a good replacement for the kind of riding I want to do? Is this just a stupid idea in general?
Anonymous
Any of you have experience with Specialized shoes?
Anonymous
>>1127777 You need gears for trails and rough roads.
Anonymous
>>1127795 Really? Is it because I need the lower gearing or is it because the abuse is more than an IGH can take? I though SA hubs were supposed to be robust.
Anonymous
>>1127800 Robust is good but you'll be seeing a need for higher torque and then lower torque all at once.
Anonymous
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>>1127782 Don't put acetone on anything worth more than $3
Anonymous
>>1127782 Are you a recreational rider or are you training?
I have some of the body geometry shoes and they're comfy, even for someone with a slightly wider foot and high arch. Not bad shoes for a distance touring ride but I'd spend the cashish and get something with a really stiff sole for harder riding and training.
If you're rich, consider SIDI, Bont or DMT shoes in the higher ranges; even a 2nd hand pair is a bit pricey but it's worth it if they're in decent condition.
Anonymous
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>>1127801 Rats. Do they make an IGH with that kind of gearing? I wanted to keep the general look.
Anonymous
I should probably think about replacing this tyre, right? It still holds air and seems to ride ok (tubeless), I can't help but worry a bit, though.
Anonymous
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>>1127819 The stuff on the tread is just muck btw, the sidewall is the problem.
Anonymous
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>>1127819 All I see is dirt
Anonymous
What's the dealio with Benjamin Thomas' bike? Such narrow tubes for a track bike, almost looks like titanium
Anonymous
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>>1127819 Sidewall looks like its fraying, but next time clean your shit before you try to have anyone diagnose something via photograph
Anonymous
>>1127830 If a "pomme de terre" is a potato, then an "armee de terre" must be ants? Have we reached the point where ant purveyors are advertising their wares on the thighs of bikemen?
Anonymous
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>>1127849 wait, jokes aside, french military is advertising on bikemen?
Anonymous
>>1127782 your not thinking of buying shoes online are you?
don't do that
Anonymous
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>>1127803 recreational rider, but i'd be replacing a pair of giro prolight slx shoes.
>>1127866 always have in the past, never had an issue really.
i just purchase at places that have free shipping/return shipping
Anonymous
Can anyone ID this bartape, or recommend bartape in a similar color?
Anonymous
>>1127926 It's blue bartape. When searching for it, remember to specify that you want blue bartape, not just regular bartape.
Anonymous
>>1127927 There are different shades of blue and I want this shade of blue in particular
Anonymous
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>>1127931 ive never once in my life looked for bar tape is it rly that hard to find it in a certain colour??
Anonymous
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Lads, how feasible does changing some components of a bicycle (wheelset) in the LBS before purchase sound?>Full carbon fork >Full Ultegra >Marginally lighter finishing kit (stem, bars, saddle) >Carbon SLR1 wheelset
Anonymous
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>>1127926 Looks similar to the the one I had on this bike, it's Fizik Superlight tape, there's only like two shades of blue so it shouldn't be too hard to find
