>>1157585No, I'm not interested in 'discussing' this, because I don't believe there is anything to 'discuss', I've been taking care of my my mechanical maintenance for many many years on more than just bicycles, I've tried various methods for cleaning a bike chain, and the method I currently use is, so far as I'm concerned, the best, it's the method I recommend, therefore 'discussion' is not required.
To summarize this:
o NEVER use water-based 'degreasers' to clean a chain, or any other bearing assembly that you can't completely disassemble, only use non-water-based solvents that completely evaporate on their own
o NEVER use water-based 'chain lube' on a drivechain either, for similar reasons to the above
o If your chain manufacturer does not recommend use of a 'master link', then do not install one; clean your chain on the bike, using a chain-cleaning tool
o Even if you can use a master link, clean the chain on the bike anyway. It's easier and faster, and actually less messy
Furthermore:
o Clean and lube a chain at least every 500 miles
o Clean and lube a chain after riding in the rain
o Listen to your chain; if it's noisy, clean and lube it even if it's been less than 500 miles
o Check chain stretch regularly. For maximum chainring and cassette life, *replace* a chain when it starts to stretch. Waiting until it's at it's service limit just causes excessive and unnecessary wear of chainrings and cassette. Chains are cheap as readily available compared to chainrings and cassettes, and much easier to replace. It's worth doing in the long run.
