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Question regarding replacing/maintaining bike chains

Anonymous Mon 30 Apr 2018 07:49:02 No.1183068 View View Reply Original Report

Quoted By: >>1183075 >>1183145 >>1185145 >>1187524 >>1188151

I have bought half a year ago a bike called iozard from the company stevens.

https://www.stevensbikes.de/2018/index.php?bik_id=14&cou=DE&lang=de_DE

The chain is listed as the Shimano CN-HG601.
But on the internet there are many more 11 speed chains more or less expensive.
Does it matter if you buy a ultegra chain or even champagnolo one?

To remove it i would just watch a youtube tutorial since it doesnt look that hard.

What kind of greasing/oil should i get to maintain it and how often should i apply it?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 30 Apr 2018 07:49:33 No.1183069 Report

Quoted By:

The bike got a 105 gear set.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 30 Apr 2018 08:43:44 No.1183075 Report

Quoted By:

>>1183068
since its 11 speed it wont matter much.
105 only has the inside coated, ultragay both sides and dura ace has hollow pins. Replacing your chain before it reaches .5% wear is more effective than an expensive chain

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 30 Apr 2018 08:47:04 No.1183077 Report

Quoted By: >>1183081 >>1183082

I’d recommend either Dura-Ace 9000 or KMC X11-SL, the price difference is so minimal compared to the cheaper alternatives. (~35€ for the better ones vs 20€ for a basic 105)

Do not get Campagnolo, it requires a very expensive special tool.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 30 Apr 2018 08:57:05 No.1183081 Report

Quoted By:

>>1183077
>Do not get Campagnolo, it requires a very expensive special tool.
You can get a non-campagnolo branded chain-tool that can rivet for ~35euro's, or use a KMC link.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 30 Apr 2018 09:00:47 No.1183082 Report

Quoted By:

>>1183077
>pay almost twice the price for a few grams

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 30 Apr 2018 14:45:45 No.1183145 Report

Quoted By: >>1183155 >>1183166

>>1183068
Use only a Shimano chain with Shimano components. Otherwise you won't be happy with how it performs; found out the hard way. Use the recommended chain or better; using an Ultegra chain for instance is fine.

Clean chains only with non-water-based solvent, NEVER with anything water-based.

Similarly, do not use water-based 'wax' chain lubes. Use something like Dumonde Tech Lite.

You only need to clean and lube your chain every few hundred miles, or when it starts making noise. More often is pointless.

Get a tool for checking chain stretch wear. Replace your chain when it starts stretching, for maximum lifespan of the cassette and chainrings. Allowing a chain to stretch to the service limit will cause unnecessary wear of the cassette and chainrings, causing poor drivetrain performance, premature chain wear, and an expensive repair.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 2c94bc0a55a630d301560dac66d700ab (...).jpg, 30KiB, 800x241

Anonymous Mon 30 Apr 2018 15:14:37 No.1183155 Report

Quoted By: >>1183166 >>1183554

>>1183145
This retard is a shimano shill.
It's like saying shimano and sram don't work well together.
KMC chains work just as fine if not better,and thousands of people agree with me on that.
The added quick removal link you get with the KMC is a plus too.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 30 Apr 2018 15:45:22 No.1183166 Report

Quoted By: >>1183554 >>1183562 >>1184682

>>1183155
dubs for truth

KMC, Campag and Sram 11 speed work fine with Shimano components, I don't think there is any advantage to one or the other.

http://fitwerx.com/campagnolo-shimano-and-sram-11-speed-wheel-compatiblity

Don't listen to this guy>>1183145
He doen't know what he's talking about

Wax lubes have come to the general acceptance of being the best, something like Rock n' Roll Gold is a very good chain wax/lube.

It also helps a ton to have a chain cleaner, you can get one for about 20 bucks and it will greatly increase the life of your chain (and other components) if you clean your chain and relube it every couple of rides.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 01 May 2018 11:20:15 No.1183554 Report

Quoted By: >>1183557 >>1184625

>>1183155
>shimano shill
LOL no if he had Campy I'd say use a Campy chain, if he had SRAM I'd say use a SRAM chain. You use what's recommended if you want the performance it's designed for, plain and simple.

>It's like saying shimano and sram don't work well together.
They don't. I tried that. New chain skipped over new chainrings when under high load (trying to sprint). Took it off, got a refund, got an Ultegra chain, had no further problems.
If you have no problems then you're a casual and never ride hard, ever, and should not be listened to.

>quick removal link
More casual shit. You don't need or should ever remove the chain unless you're replacing it. Not necessary to clean it. Unless you're one of those fools who use WATER to clean moving parts. In which case you ruin your chain.

>>1183166
>KMC, Campag and Sram 11 speed work fine with Shimano components
Only if you're a filthy casual who never rides hard.

>Wax lubes have come to the general acceptance of being the best
{citation needed}
Wax lube company ads don't count. Bicycling magazine doesn't count. Shill articles don't count.
YOU DO NOT USE WATER-BASED ANYTHING ON BEARINGS, AND A CHAIN IS 100+ SLEEVE BEARINGS.
You'll ruin a chain, accelerate wear that way. Use ONLY non-water-based lubes on a chain, always.

You're all the same guys who complain about "jew companies" that make shit that doesn't last. That's because you don't know how to properly maintain things, take stupid shortcuts, and use inappropriate things. You're really no better than guys who use old motor oil or WD40 to lube a chain. FFS get a clue already.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 01 May 2018 11:33:02 No.1183557 Report

Quoted By: >>1184833

>>1183554
>Unless you're one of those fools who use WATER to clean moving parts
You mean like pro mechanics?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 01 May 2018 12:17:19 No.1183562 Report

Quoted By: >>1184579

>>1183166
>paying campybucks for a campychain on anything but campymatchy

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 04 May 2018 07:36:21 No.1184579 Report

Quoted By: >>1184601 >>1184625 >>1184833

>>1183562
Shimano is garbage.

Generally Shimano and SRAM (and KMC chains) are cross compatible, but at 11 speed they don't work quite so well. I wouldn't use Campy with anything but Campy.

Make sure you get an 11 speed chain but it doesn't have to be the same series (i.e. Ultegra on Dura Ace is fine.. Sram Red on Sram Force is fine.. etc)

Same brand and same speed: Good to go

Different brand, same speed: Usually ok

Different speed: Don't do this

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 04 May 2018 10:11:37 No.1184601 Report

Quoted By: >>1184625

>>1184579
With the exception that KMC works best with all brands. Makes sense since they make many of the chains of the other brands.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1515881711935.png, 247KiB, 638x359

Anonymous Fri 04 May 2018 12:44:14 No.1184625 Report

Quoted By: >>1184833

>>1184579
shilling SRAM over Shimano

I bet you're saying that because your first bike had Claris and now you have Apex and feel like a big boy

>>1184601
think about your logic here anon...KMC works fine with Sram, Shimano and in the case of 11 speeds, it works with campy

Yet you guys are saying Shimano and Sram and Campy are not compatible, but KMC is.

This makes zero sense.

The width, pitch, roller width and plate thickness on all of these are exactly the same. 11 speed chains from all of these are compatible.

That said, you will fuck your warranty if you use them, which is another reason why >>1183554
is so full of shit, because he says a bike shop gives him a refund on a chain that he knowingly used on a different manufacturers groupset, and with SRAM of all things, the most stingiest jewy of all manufacturers.

Velo Uber Alles

Velo Uber Alles Fri 04 May 2018 18:16:21 No.1184682 Report

Quoted By: >>1184834

There's a trivial amount of difference in the plates that probably doesn't matter to you. The number of speeds, which determines the width of the chain is. 11 speed in particular is kind of touchy. I'd go with the manufacturer and then KMC.

When a new width comes out, it usually takes some time for the makers to synchronize their production, but 11 has been out for a while..

>>1183166
>Wax lubes have come to the general acceptance of being the best,

No. It depends on your riding conditions.

See Park Tools and Sheldon Brown for instructions on cleaning and lubricating the drivetrain.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 05 May 2018 03:19:36 No.1184833 Report

Quoted By:

>>1183557
>You mean like pro mechanics?
Yeah sure I'll bet they don't even bother cleaning chains, they throw them away to keep the pro riders bikes in top shape, chains are cheap. Don't be stupid. You probably also believe it's perfectly OK to use a pressure washer to clean a bike. Enjoy your ruined everything.

>>1184579
You have no idea what you're talking about and/or don't ride hard enough to notice problems -- or don't ride much at all.

>>1184625
Performance bike has a very liberal return policy, especially when I *asked* their mechanic if it would work, he said "yes", I tried it, it sucked, I brought it back. Also helps they knew me. Only casuals and fools use SRAM chains on Shimano drivetrains.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 05 May 2018 03:20:42 No.1184834 Report

Quoted By: >>1184860

>>1184682
NEVER use water-based ANYTHING on bearings of any kind -- and by the way a chain has 100+ sleeve bearings. You get water in those and you will NEVER get it back out again. Stop ruining your chains.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 05 May 2018 05:39:14 No.1184860 Report

Quoted By: >>1184988

>>1184834
You're saying park-tool is wrong?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 05 May 2018 15:20:17 No.1184988 Report

Quoted By: >>1185258

>>1184860
Yep. :-) I like their tools but their advice on that subject is clearly and objectively wrong. Using water-based crap may be more 'environmentally friendly', at least for dummies who can't manage using a proper solvent with spilling it all over the place, and it may be less expensive, but it's not the best practice and they damned well know it. They're just being politically correct; there is a giant crossover between cyclists and active environmentalists, and they don't want to piss off a huge portion of their customer base.

Tell you what: go to an auto mechanic shop, and have them tell you what happens to an engine when it gets a bad head gasket, and coolant gets into the oil pan: the engine oil, churned up with the mostly-water coolant, turns into this grey mud-like sludge that's no good for anything, which gets pumped through the bearings and cylinders, and begins to ruin them. When this happens you may not be able to save the engine, it can ruin things like crankshaft and camshaft bearings. Same thing happens with a bike chain. When they assemble the links of a new bike chain, do you think they put water-based crap in there? No, they put a light grease. You start injecting water into those links to 'clean' the chain, what do you think happens? You ruin the grease, it turns to useless sludge. By the way you'll never get it all out of there no matter how hard you try, now. To compound the problem now you use some water-based 'wax' 'chain lube'? LOL, you're encouraging corrosion and rust just as surely as if you rode in the rain every day then never dried it off and re-lubed it.

NEVER use water-based 'degreasers' on any sort of bearings, EVER. You will RUIN them. NEVER use any sort of water-based 'chain lube' either. There are plenty of chain lubes for all different riding conditions that have NO water in them, and they are superior, and they won't cause your chain to corrode or wear out prematurely.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_5144.jpg, 1MiB, 3264x2448

Anonymous Sat 05 May 2018 23:36:44 No.1185145 Report

Quoted By: >>1185148

>>1183068
>What kind of greasing/oil should i get to maintain it and how often should i apply it?

none. get a powerlink for easy chain removal and drop it in candle wax every two or three weeks. It costs nothing, lubricates better than most oils and is completely clean. you will not get gunk on your hands / legs ever again.

I use this system on all 3 of my bikes. It literally takes 5 minutes, it changed my life.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_5147.jpg, 2MiB, 3264x2448

Anonymous Sat 05 May 2018 23:39:05 No.1185148 Report

Quoted By: >>1185196 >>1185223

>>1185145

pure paraffin porn

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1387900219671_chloes-infectious- (...).gif, 3MiB, 312x290

Anonymous Sun 06 May 2018 00:12:24 No.1185160 Report

Quoted By:

not worth maintaining, just clean and oil. then when worn enough buy new ones. you gonna spend more money (and effort) on those cleaning liquids than new chains lol

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 06 May 2018 01:08:38 No.1185165 Report

Quoted By: >>1185168

best way to clean a chain is to just oil it and wipe it off

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 06 May 2018 01:11:07 No.1185168 Report

Quoted By: >>1185256

>>1185165
>best way to clean your dick is to add more smegma and wipe it off

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 06 May 2018 04:20:00 No.1185196 Report

Quoted By:

>>1185148
>pure paraffin porn

Look. You just saved me $16. I was going to pay $17 for some "chain lube" and what I got was a $1 candle. I have to clean off the old grease, and then its wax city. Thanks.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 06 May 2018 06:16:40 No.1185223 Report

Quoted By: >>1185247 >>1185258

>>1185148
Is this for real?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 06 May 2018 08:25:27 No.1185247 Report

Quoted By:

>>1185223
All oils will attract dirt in between the rollers and pins due to it wanting to be in an equilibrium, since paraffin is a solid it wont "suck" the abrasive particles in between the rollers and pins.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 06 May 2018 09:50:53 No.1185256 Report

Quoted By:

>>1185168
He means very low viscosity oil.

Velo Uber Alles

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO lubFC[1].jpg, 197KiB, 1399x771

Velo Uber Alles Sun 06 May 2018 10:10:41 No.1185258 Report

Quoted By: >>1185264 >>1185272 >>1187514

>>1184988
Even if citrus degreasers are functionaly inferior at cleaning, which is something I'm not sure of, the difference in usability is still big enough that I'd still stick with basic recommendations, especially for someone new at this.

Also, many of the common solvents are banned or restricted in california now and parts of europe.

That said, Sheldon himself has suggested mineral spirits for severe chain cleaning before.

>>1185223
Yes. I only use it for my race drivetrain, because it doesn't degrade gracefully, but it's the real deal.

Chart related. Note that the chart is for race conditions, and doesn't include longevity.

The basic heuristic is generally dry lubes for dry conditions, wet lubes for wet conditions.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 06 May 2018 10:34:03 No.1185264 Report

Quoted By: >>1187632

>>1185258
Chart is paraffin wax with PTFE or graphite moran

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 06 May 2018 10:54:29 No.1185272 Report

Quoted By: >>1187632

>>1185258
>Watts expended
Lower numbers are better, right?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 12 May 2018 00:40:46 No.1187514 Report

Quoted By: >>1187632

>>1185258
Source?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 12 May 2018 01:30:14 No.1187524 Report

Quoted By:

>>1183068
Another vote for paraffin here. Can't comment on it's use on derailures; I run a gear hub. You need one of those master link thingies, don't know how well they would shift with an 11-speed. But as far a the lubrication itself goes, paraffin is tough to beat.

I clean the chain in my parts washer that's full of diesel fuel and turpentine, then use hot wax mixed with 85w synthetic gear oil. Straight candle wax seems too hard and brittle, the gear oil makes it a bit softer, without ever becoming tacky. Chain stays silky smooth and clean, pant leg also stays clean. Works especially well in dusty conditions.

Velo Uber Alles

Velo Uber Alles Sat 12 May 2018 08:43:21 No.1187632 Report

Quoted By: >>1187635

>>1185264
Not that specific one. It's crock pot parafin.

>>1185272
Yes, but remember, that this chart scenario is one day road racing in clean, dry conditions.

>>1187514
Friction facts is the source of the research.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO ff-chart.png, 194KiB, 880x345

Anonymous Sat 12 May 2018 09:26:24 No.1187635 Report

Quoted By: >>1187641 >>1188010

>>1187632
>frictionfacts

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 12 May 2018 10:26:40 No.1187641 Report

Quoted By: >>1187658

>>1187635
Tf is shis shit

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 12 May 2018 11:54:35 No.1187658 Report

Quoted By: >>1187659

>>1187641
Petrochemical autism in action

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 12 May 2018 12:04:22 No.1187659 Report

Quoted By:

>>1187658
>olive oil

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 12 May 2018 17:19:07 No.1187805 Report

Quoted By:

Worrying about chain lubing is pointless. You'll get about 100km more out of your bike if you lube it all the time. It's just not worth it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 12 May 2018 23:46:26 No.1188010 Report

Quoted By: >>1188126 >>1188137

>>1187635
>total range of difference of all lubes tested: 3 watts
Nobody gives a fuck. If a couple watts makes or breaks even a road race for you, then you got more important problems to deal with. FFS you could be half a pound heavier on any given day because there's a little more shit still in your gut and that'd cancel out any 'advantage' of a watt or two from goddamned chain-lube. A 5mph headwind would more than cancel it out. Worrying about and arguing this much about chain lube is about as autistic as being a weight-weenie and spending $1000 to shave a few grams off your bike. If you're that worried about 'efficiency' then train harder and get your bodyfat percentage down below 10%. Seriously some of you guys are as bad or worse than audiophiles.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 13 May 2018 05:19:59 No.1188126 Report

Quoted By:

>>1188010
Yeah dude, my car runs fine without oil. Lubing moving parts is the biggest scam

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 13 May 2018 05:59:41 No.1188137 Report

Quoted By:

>>1188010
For world-class riders, the few watts really does make a difference.
But for everyone else, you're right. Just choose one of the cheapest and use that regularly. Regular cleaning and relubing will save you an actual good amount of watts and preserve your bike's components.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 13 May 2018 08:09:05 No.1188151 Report

Quoted By:

>>1183068
Buy cheapest you can get - there is $11 SRAM chain out there. Replace when it gets to .5% elongation.

Also - use master links.

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