/n/ - Transportation » Thread #1441095

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/wmg/ Wheel Mainintence general

Anonymous Sat 18 Jan 2020 21:40:48 No.1441095 View View Reply Original Report

-wheel truing
-wheel building

Post resources, ebooks about wheel building etc. about the most mesmerizing aspect of bike mainintence.

What is your rationale when truing a wheel? Is it best to handle it from spoke tension or just "make it straight"? I was truing wheels by using the frame and pads for years without a tensiometer...what a dumbass I was.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO wheel stand.jpg, 375KiB, 1600x1000

Anonymous Sat 18 Jan 2020 21:44:21 No.1441097 Report

Quoted By: >>1441099 >>1448075

very good book on the subject, please pay the guy if you can.

https://easyupload.io/hvvi7k

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 18 Jan 2020 21:47:14 No.1441099 Report

Quoted By: >>1441400

also, q for experienced anons...for trully messed up rims, ones you can only true by having totally unequal spoke tension, how do you sort them out without changing rims?

>>1441097
>https://easyupload.io/hvvi7k

its Roger-Musson---The-Professional-Guide-to-Wheelbuilding-v5

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 19 Jan 2020 20:58:49 No.1441400 Report

Quoted By: >>1441567

>>1441099
>how do you sort them out without changing rims?
you don't. if there are bends sharp enough to necessitate such uneven spoke tension, you can't straighten it out any other way. except for literally bending it back, but fuck that. you deserve better than that.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO wheel bend.jpg, 202KiB, 1024x803

Anonymous Mon 20 Jan 2020 10:58:28 No.1441567 Report

Quoted By: >>1441570 >>1442373 >>1448075

>>1441400
>except for literally bending it back

but why do mechanics frown on that so much if we are talking about a strong rim?

Spokes do the same exact thing - in fact, even for small imperfections it would be best to first phisically bend them back without spoke tension then tension them and that would allow for far equal spoke tension. Only reason they dont do that is time and for serious bends its hard to guarantee that it will hold.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 20 Jan 2020 11:31:19 No.1441570 Report

Quoted By: >>1442363

>>1441567
Pain in the ass compared to just replacing the entire rim. Rims are cheap.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2020 17:23:51 No.1442363 Report

Quoted By:

>>1441570
>Pain in the ass compared to just replacing the entire rim

how so, it seems way simpler in most cases than unscrewing all nipples and replacing rims.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2020 18:29:21 No.1442373 Report

Quoted By: >>1442731

>>1441567
Bending aluminum multiple times in the same place makes it more brittle really quickly. I wouldn't trust a really bent aluminum rim that's been straightened for the same reason I wouldn't ride a bent/unbent alu frame

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2020 21:38:29 No.1442731 Report

Quoted By: >>1445317

>>1442373
>Bending aluminum multiple times in the same place makes it more brittle

this is true, but spokes bend it as well. Im not suggesting bending and trusting a rim that coulndt have been trued from that position in the first place.

My only idea is do deal with smaller isolated bends with light physical bending first, since only that way can you equalize the spoke tension.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2020 16:08:11 No.1445317 Report

Quoted By: >>1447917

>>1442731
You're confusing plastic and elastic deformation. Spokes don't permanently bend rims in the same way an impact does. Smaller/more isolated bends, basically "unkinking" the rim is totally possible, but you're creating a permanant weaker/more brittle point. Hoops are pretty cheap. Having a wheel fail during a fast ride might not be.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Size-20%27%27Plastic-Bicycle-Whe (...).jpg, 45KiB, 560x412

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2020 17:22:55 No.1445349 Report

Quoted By: >>1447922

>he needs to true his wheels

its time to upgrade boomers

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 07 Feb 2020 17:04:21 No.1447917 Report

Quoted By:

>>1445317
>"unkinking" the rim is totally possible, but you're creating a permanant weaker/more brittle point.

True, but my idea is that an unkinked wheel with stable tension might actually be superior to an unkinked wheel with tension all over the place...?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 07 Feb 2020 17:30:42 No.1447921 Report

Quoted By:

Rear triangle of a suspension frame makes a servicable wheel truing stand.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 07 Feb 2020 17:48:23 No.1447922 Report

Quoted By:

>>1445349
>plastic

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 07 Feb 2020 19:10:41 No.1447931 Report

Quoted By: >>1447984 >>1448118

>>1441095
Where do I start learning to build wheels?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 07 Feb 2020 22:56:12 No.1447984 Report

Quoted By: >>1448118

>>1447931
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2jTrJYJGd8
This guy explains it pretty well. It's easy but kinda tedious. Start with front wheels, they don't have much of a (if any) dish and you don't really need a stand, a fork and some string will do.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 354534534.jpg, 44KiB, 463x662

Anonymous Sat 08 Feb 2020 06:45:55 No.1448075 Report

Quoted By: >>1448118 >>1448120

>>1441097
any pro tips on radial truing ?
or is it best to throw the wheel in the trash
>>1441567
real ghetto hours is just to stomp the taco flat
then do the smaller adjustments with spoke tension

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO tensiometer.jpg, 38KiB, 400x400

Anonymous Sat 08 Feb 2020 11:20:43 No.1448118 Report

Quoted By: >>1448120 >>1448692 >>1448714

Also, if you want to do aynthing properly, INVEST IN A TENSIOMETER, you can but a chink knockoff for 20usd and its ok.

Equalizing tensions of the spokes is key, otherwise youll never be sure to screw or unscrew a spoke in lateral truing of the wheel. Tensiometer changed the way I true wheels drastically.

>>1447931
>>1447984
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2jTrJYJGd8

Ali made the best tutorial on yt, great watch

>>1448075
>radial truing

if we are talking about a pure radial true, instead of a kink insided from a curb etc where you have to "push it" by radial puller, your MO is screw on one side and unscrew on other, radial truing is mostly on both side.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO cycling_jobstbrandt.jpg, 69KiB, 580x389

Anonymous Sat 08 Feb 2020 11:26:41 No.1448120 Report

Quoted By:

Jobst Brandt - Bicycle Wheel

https://easyupload.io/9q6kgw

>>1448075
>>1448118
>your MO is screw on one side and unscrew on other, radial truing is mostly on both side.

*unscrew on the opossite side of wheel symetrical to the center of the hub

although sometimes you can do a proper job with only one side.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 09 Feb 2020 15:09:21 No.1448540 Report

Quoted By: >>1448681 >>1448688

Ive replaced my front tire tube 4 times now and its gone flat overnight every time what is happening. rim does not look damaged and I cant see anything sharp in the tire plz help .

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 09 Feb 2020 21:01:09 No.1448681 Report

Quoted By: >>1451476 >>1451740

>>1448540
you need to do detective work when you change a tube. Firstly, always mount your tyre in exactly the same place aligning with stickers/ valve hole on your rim. This is not just for autism.
When you remove a tube, blow it up, and find the hole. You should be able to hear it and feel air escaping if you put enough pressure into it.

Then you can trace back exactly where the issue is, on the rim/tape end or on the tyre.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 09 Feb 2020 21:11:33 No.1448688 Report

Quoted By:

>>1448540
If you are buying your inner tubes from the same brand and shop, it could be an old/bad batch of tubes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 09 Feb 2020 21:23:11 No.1448692 Report

Quoted By: >>1448696 >>1448714

>>1448118
The chinese tension meters are not ok. I could not calibrate mine to match a park or produce the correct results with the included chart. Also the calibration screw on mine was completely undone.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 09 Feb 2020 21:25:23 No.1448696 Report

Quoted By: >>1448714 >>1448968

>>1448692
Why do you need the tension meter to match some chart? Isn't a tension meter most useful for seeing how the tension is between the spokes. You don't build a wheel by tensioning the spokes to a certain tension based on a fucking chart anyway. As long as it gives a consistent reading it should be fine.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 09 Feb 2020 21:54:04 No.1448714 Report

Quoted By: >>1448732 >>1448968 >>1449813

>>1448118
>>1448692
>>1448696
New wheels, sure it'll be true with even tension across the spokes but on old wheels, the spoke tension is going to vary anyway. With enough experience, you don't even need a tension meter, just pluck the spokes like guitar strings to listen to their tension, if it's too loose it'll rattle and if it's too tight it'll sound dead, you want the spokes to 'ring'

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 09 Feb 2020 22:14:46 No.1448732 Report

Quoted By:

>>1448714
Yeah tension meter isn't even necessary when building wheels. But if you've got one and use it all it needs to be is consistent. You're probably just better off learning to build wheels without one desu.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 09 Feb 2020 22:27:14 No.1448741 Report

Quoted By: >>1448770 >>1448772 >>1449813

How do i deal with an oblong wheel? I believe the term is vertically out of true.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 09 Feb 2020 23:13:03 No.1448770 Report

Quoted By: >>1448938

>>1448741
Isn't it obvious?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO lateral vs radial.png, 141KiB, 1074x932

Anonymous Sun 09 Feb 2020 23:39:38 No.1448772 Report

Quoted By: >>1448780 >>1448783 >>1448938 >>1449813

>>1448741
>I believe the term is vertically out of true.
the correct term is radial truing and it's the solution for an oblong (egg shaped) wheel. You would correct it similarly to correcting lateral true, except radially and not laterally. So the truing gauge should be at the edge of the rim instead of the side (as you would when you true laterally). There's tutorials out there but basic advice in truing radially is to pair spokes so each pair goes to the opposite side of the hub flange. Keep in mind that after radial adjustments, your lateral adjustments could be off which would require correction which could throw off your radial true. Then after all that, the dish could be off which needs to be corrected which could throw your radial and lateral true off again. Plus in between all adjustments you want to release spoke tension, maybe even ride a bit once it all seems good, release spoke tension, then check again. Truing is a pain in the ass because any adjustments will throw the rest of the thing off but that also makes it somewhat of an art form. Make sure you read tutorials carefully and understand how spoke tension works before you start fucking with your wheel or you will fuck up your wheel.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 09 Feb 2020 23:50:54 No.1448780 Report

Quoted By:

>>1448772
I'd like to add some more, too tight or too loose of a spoke will reduce wheel and/or hub integrity. Finding the right spoke tension balance along with trueness is down to the skill of the mech.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 09 Feb 2020 23:55:45 No.1448783 Report

Quoted By:

>>1448772
>basic advice in truing radially is to pair spokes so each pair goes to the opposite side of the hub flange
and correction, pair spokes so each pair has one coming from the opposite side of the hub flange and it's something you do when finding lateral true as well.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO ED8DD263-4EA6-4B01-98A1-416764C1 (...).jpg, 1MiB, 2048x1536

Anonymous Mon 10 Feb 2020 10:05:37 No.1448938 Report

Quoted By: >>1449327 >>1449328 >>1449335

>>1448770
>>1448772
The duality of man

Thanks long-winded Anon. All I’ve done before is minor trying adjustments, I’m probably just going to bring the wheel into a lbs. sorry for the dumb question and thanks for the smart answer
Pic related is bike w/wheel in question

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 10 Feb 2020 13:16:09 No.1448968 Report

Quoted By:

>>1448696
>You don't build a wheel by tensioning the spokes to a certain tension based on a fucking chart anyway.
Yes you do. It's extremely important with low spoke counts or high dish wheels that call for high spoke tensions. You don't actually know anything about building wheels do you? In fact, it's one of the only reasons to buy a tension meter. As >>1448714 says, if you're just half assing it or want to do it like ye olde wheel builders, you can tell if tension is close enough to even by pitch.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 11 Feb 2020 08:15:47 No.1449327 Report

Quoted By: >>1449969

>>1448938
nice bike anon but it would look better if you removed the dork disk and the reflectors.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 11 Feb 2020 08:23:04 No.1449328 Report

Quoted By:

>>1448938
very clean miyata desu

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 11 Feb 2020 09:26:53 No.1449335 Report

Quoted By:

>>1448938
gib the bike bak jamal

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO serveimage.jpg, 46KiB, 667x500

Anonymous Wed 12 Feb 2020 17:11:18 No.1449813 Report

Quoted By: >>1450169

>>1448714
>With enough experience, you don't even need a tension meter, just pluck the spokes like guitar strings to listen to their tension

I assume that if you learn with a tensiometer you can later go by sound but learning by sound from start is a totally messy process at least for me since there is no reference point. Just a basic shitty uncalibrated tensiometer to tell you which spoke unloosened makes dramatic difference, not to mention the proneness of beginners to overtension, round nipples, brake spokes...if only I knew about tension. Even on older wheels you can get closer to equalizing tension with a tensiometer.

>>1448741
>oblong wheel

egg shaped/radial untrueness? its far more messy than lateral true as this anon explained >>1448772

Remember, apprach all 4 elements:
1. lateral
2. radial
3. tension
4.dish

together, dont approach any of them on their own, get a tensiometer, it will help drastically

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 12 Feb 2020 17:26:23 No.1449817 Report

Quoted By: >>1450080 >>1450170

During a wheel build if you are careful about counting nipple turns you can get a wheel pretty straight before even getting into truing. A nipple driver makes it easy to take up the slack and keep track of turns.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Feb 2020 01:20:25 No.1449969 Report

Quoted By: >>1449989

>>1449327
Protip: use reflectors for final wheel balancing.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Feb 2020 01:59:59 No.1449989 Report

Quoted By: >>1450123

>>1449969
Good rims have weight opposite the valve hole to balance the valve. Reflectors are just going to throw the balance out, get reflective sidewalls.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Feb 2020 05:16:25 No.1450080 Report

Quoted By:

>>1449817
even better are hexagonal nipples since you can use a regular socket wrench or nut driver and track it more precisely, though I've not seen these for sale ever - just in an old chrome 27" wheel that wasn't original to a beater I found in dumpster

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Feb 2020 07:42:42 No.1450123 Report

Quoted By:

>>1449989
Good rims yes, but tires are pretty much always slightly off-balance, especially MTB tires.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Feb 2020 12:15:51 No.1450169 Report

Quoted By: >>1450171

>>1449813
>since there is no reference point.
You pick a single spoke per target tension to be the reference.

>not to mention the proneness of beginners to overtension, round nipples, brake spokes...if only I knew about tension
If only you used a calibrated tension meter designed to actually do that.

You don't even need a good ear to get within +/- 1 on a park meter by ear.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO nipple driver diy.jpg, 36KiB, 300x204

Anonymous Thu 13 Feb 2020 12:16:04 No.1450170 Report

Quoted By:

>>1449817
>A nipple driver

this is an excellent tip to keep wheels straigh, but even with best equipment youll still need a bit of truing

You can diy an old screwdriver into a nipple driver quite easily with a file btw

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Feb 2020 12:18:15 No.1450171 Report

Quoted By: >>1450175

>>1450169
>You don't even need a good ear to get within +/- 1 on a park meter by ear.

like I said all that is good once you are used to wheel building, but once you starting from zero by ear method is bollocks

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Feb 2020 12:37:31 No.1450175 Report

Quoted By: >>1450215 >>1451032

>>1450171
>like I said all that is good once you are used to wheel building, but once you starting from zero by ear method is bollocks
No it isn't. If it sounds noticeably lower then tension is uneven and too low. If it sounds too high, then tension is uneven and too high. It's pretty fucking simple. You are mentally challenged. Wheels used to be built all the time without tension meters. Shops only started using tension meters for actually measuring tension for high tension wheels, which for some reason you think is worthless.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Feb 2020 15:13:22 No.1450215 Report

Quoted By: >>1450852 >>1451032

>>1450175
>If it sounds too high, then tension is uneven and too high. It's pretty fucking simple. You are mentally challenged.

sounds too high" compared to what? bloody moron. by ear method is a recipe for overtensioning.

>which for some reason you think is worthless.

what are you even talking about you twat?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2020 07:01:11 No.1450852 Report

Quoted By: >>1451025 >>1451032

>>1450215
You literally advocated using an uncalibrated tension meter you moran

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2020 22:50:25 No.1451025 Report

Quoted By: >>1451032

>>1450852
>You literally advocated using an uncalibrated tension meter you moran

I said that using an uncalibrated chink device is superior to ear method if you arent used to equalizing tension. Even with an uncalibrated device you can judge what is higher tension far better than by spoke plucking method.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2020 23:25:10 No.1451032 Report

Quoted By:

>>1450175
>>1450215
>>1450852
>>1451025
What I like to do is every few weeks head on down to the LBS with a 6er of the boys' favorite beer, deposit it into their fridge, then spend about a half hour plucking the spokes of the bikes they've got on the floor. It keeps my ear gauge "tuned" if you will, and my wheels have been rock solid since I started doing this.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO washers.png, 227KiB, 272x393

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2020 07:08:01 No.1451474 Report

Quoted By: >>1451494 >>1451509 >>1456257

Can someone demystify the reasoning behind using washers on your spokes lie pic related?

Is it to help the J bends settle and not catch on the spoke holes in the hub etc? That's my best guess...

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2020 07:19:59 No.1451476 Report

Quoted By: >>1451479 >>1451615

>>1448681
>you need to do detective work when you change a tube. Firstly, always mount your tyre in exactly the same place aligning with stickers/ valve hole on your rim. This is not just for autism.
well what is it for then?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO P1020821.jpg, 2MiB, 2560x1920

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2020 07:30:24 No.1451479 Report

Quoted By: >>1451481 >>1451740

>>1451476
I'm not that guy, but it's so that when you get a puncture and inspect the tire and tube, you can locate where the puncture happened and properly check the inside of the tyre as well as the tube.

e.g. If you puncture through your tyre at the 3 o'clock position from the valve stem, you can have a look at your tire inside and out at that exact position and see what caused the problem and if it's still in there.

If you've ever had a puncture from something like a piece of fine wire and not been able to find where it went in, only for it to drive itself into the tire soon after a repair and cause another puncture you'll be thankful you set your tires up this way.

Also: It looks cool.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2020 07:37:44 No.1451481 Report

Quoted By: >>1451504

>>1451479
i can see there is some sort of idea when removing the tire, but i dont get why anon wants me to put in on in the exact same position etc.
do you own a mountainbike and run tubes ?
i just run mine tubeless. much easier and more reliable.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2020 09:17:15 No.1451494 Report

Quoted By:

>>1451474
I have never seen washers used like that
but I have seen many spokes break at the curve of the J end

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO tube underwater.jpg, 19KiB, 450x254

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2020 09:53:01 No.1451504 Report

Quoted By:

>>1451481
feel all alongside the inside of the tire and see if you can feel anything rough for a start.
Also check the rim tape and inside surface of the rim to make sure no nipple heads etc are poking through and there's no debris in there.
If you align your tyre and tube the way anon and i are telling you and it's puncturing in the same place every time, it should be very easy to find the source of the problem.

One thing I've had happen but is kinda rare, is the valve stem hole having a burr on the inside and wearing away the rubber around the stem of the inner tube, but that's super unlikely to be your case.

Try pic related if you really can't find the puncture(s) on your tubes consistently.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2020 10:39:34 No.1451509 Report

Quoted By: >>1456257

>>1451474
From what I've heard with some hub/spoke combos the j bend is longer than needed and washers fill up the gap which supposedly makes it last better. Haven't actually seen a wheel like that ever myself so can't really say if that's true or not. Or I've seen but haven't paid attention to it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2020 19:29:53 No.1451615 Report

Quoted By: >>1451740

>>1451476
>well what is it for then?

also check out the inner surface of tire, I had situations where an old tire looses one thread of inner casing and it was constantly puncturing the tube on the same place, I put a patch on the inner of the tire and viola!

other anon gave good advice as well

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 18 Feb 2020 04:12:23 No.1451713 Report

Quoted By: >>1451740

i have a slightly bent spoke on my rear wheel, should i get it fixed immediately or am i fine for now?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 18 Feb 2020 07:09:59 No.1451740 Report

Quoted By:

>>1448681
I line it up with the X .eg 26x1.75
>>1451479
if the puncture is on the inside edge of the tube and the rim is single walled
check for spokes that are protruding into the rim tape its rare enough that most people do not look for it
>>1451615
also good to check for any debris inside the inner casing .eg mice teeth
starting with an old paint brush to get the dust, then going slowly by hand to avoid getting the tips of fingers cut
the outside of the tire needs to be checked too especially tread blocks, as they can hold small bits of glass that cut deeper as weight is applied or the tread wears down
>>1451713
its not an immediate problem but better to fix it at the earliest convenience
if that spoke is not supporting load properly it will be putting more weight on other spokes and wearing them out

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 21 Feb 2020 23:49:09 No.1453025 Report

Quoted By: >>1453085 >>1453165

just bought some farsport rims, have No idea what im doing and simply follow yt Videos. Wish me luck

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Feb 2020 02:36:40 No.1453085 Report

Quoted By: >>1453218

>>1453025
T A C O S
A
C
O
S

Just kidding anon, get the wheelbuilding books mentioned in the thread and watch some tutes and you'll probably do fine.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Feb 2020 07:14:52 No.1453165 Report

Quoted By: >>1453218

>>1453025
>No idea what im doing and simply follow yt Videos. Wish me luck

that is how you learn, whatever you do AVOID OVERTENSIONING. I strongly suggest using, rentingbuyinf a knockoff tensiometer. Also, LUBE NIPPLES no homo and read a book about wheel building it will prevent a lot of mistakes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Feb 2020 08:32:44 No.1453181 Report

Quoted By:

triple layer electrical rim tape

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Feb 2020 12:35:30 No.1453218 Report

Quoted By: >>1453280 >>1453299

>>1453085
>>1453165
thanks guys, will check the books out. just dont fully trust chinese Carbon, but so many people build wheels or Ride dengfu frames that i had to try

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Feb 2020 16:17:16 No.1453280 Report

Quoted By: >>1453371

>>1453218
>Carbon

DO NOT do your first wheel build on carbon rims, seriously, dont do that.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Feb 2020 17:43:46 No.1453299 Report

Quoted By:

>>1453218
I've got ~20 000 km on Chinese wheels. They're fine.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Feb 2020 23:48:42 No.1453371 Report

Quoted By: >>1453373

>>1453280
why?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Feb 2020 23:55:42 No.1453373 Report

Quoted By: >>1453374

>>1453371
Carbon reacts to improper stress much worse than metal, to a potentially dangerous degree

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 23 Feb 2020 00:04:16 No.1453374 Report

Quoted By: >>1453376 >>1453503

>>1453373
is it that easy to screw up even when using a tension Meter? currently watching thedarkinstall and peaktorques wheel builds on yt

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 23 Feb 2020 00:05:35 No.1453376 Report

Quoted By:

>>1453374
Tension changes on one side of the wheel affect tension at other parts of the wheel as well
Carbon is just more finicky

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 23 Feb 2020 14:01:12 No.1453503 Report

Quoted By:

>>1453374
>is it that easy to screw up even when using a tension Meter?

yes, if its your first time doing it, usually you can fix mistakes, but carbon is far more sensible and you can scratch it or develop a crack, I strongly recommend alu rim with shallow profiles as your first build (nipples often get stuck in deep section rims so prevent frustration)

Also, some carbon rims require metal spacers under nipples which all makes it more complex

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 01 Mar 2020 03:27:08 No.1455642 Report

Quoted By: >>1455653 >>1459509 >>1461972

Is more spokes (32, 36) still always better?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 01 Mar 2020 04:26:56 No.1455653 Report

Quoted By: >>1459509

>>1455642
yes but manufacturer cunts will usually only sell you the shittiest rims in 36h to make it seem like the weight savings are significant (you'd save like 40g for every four spokes at most)
always pick brass nipples, too

Christopher

Christopher Sun 01 Mar 2020 05:17:27 No.1455660 Report

Quoted By: >>1459504

Practice > study

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 02 Mar 2020 23:41:00 No.1456257 Report

Quoted By:

>>1451474
>>1451509
This
You want as snug of a fit as possible where the spoke sits in the hub. Any movement here is the enemy.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 13 Mar 2020 16:21:25 No.1459504 Report

Quoted By: >>1459505

>>1455660
bad practive wont get you nowhere

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 13 Mar 2020 16:31:37 No.1459505 Report

Quoted By: >>1459506

>>1459504
mistakes are the greatest learning experience, at least, only if one learns from the mistake

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 13 Mar 2020 16:33:46 No.1459506 Report

Quoted By: >>1459508

>>1459505
>only if one learns from the mistake

regarding wheel building and wheel truing its not as straight forward, I know ver skilled long time mechanics that dont even lube the nipples when changing rims let alone lube rim eyelets, same also dont use tensiometers and usually undertension wheels etc.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 13 Mar 2020 16:38:28 No.1459508 Report

Quoted By: >>1459510

>>1459506
>regarding wheel building and wheel truing its not as straight forward,
I guess that's true, I killed two wheels before I had a solid grasp of truing a wheel
>I know ver skilled long time mechanics that dont even lube the nipples when changing rims let alone lube rim eyelets, same also dont use tensiometers and usually undertension wheels etc.
lel, not gonna lie, you just described me. In my defense, undertensioned is a lot better than overtensioned.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO s-l800.jpg, 64KiB, 510x397

Anonymous Fri 13 Mar 2020 16:41:15 No.1459509 Report

Quoted By:

>>1455642
>>1455653

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 13 Mar 2020 16:42:47 No.1459510 Report

Quoted By:

>>1459508
>I guess that's true, I killed two wheels before I had a solid grasp of truing a wheel

I overtensiomed wheels like a maniac, almost all my wheels had rounded nipples and I was proud of them since they were all straight. I had no idead what "equalizing tension" meant, thought it was just roadie autism Ive ignored, until a "front road wheel Ive trued myself" got heavily out of true after hitting some small rock almost locking itself on the fork during a descent.

TENSIOMETER FTW!!!!

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 14 Mar 2020 16:44:07 No.1459799 Report

Quoted By: >>1459838 >>1460127

Is it okay for some spokes to be low tension? Some of them are but the wheel is true and center.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 14 Mar 2020 19:58:42 No.1459838 Report

Quoted By:

>>1459799
how low of a tension are we talking about? Not like loose enough to loosely rattle is it?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 15 Mar 2020 13:30:28 No.1460127 Report

Quoted By:

>>1459799
>Some of them are but the wheel is true and center.

sound like rim is slightly bent or you havent equalized tension well enough. It isnt necessery to get the tension equal for it to be ridable, but unequal tension means that wheel wont stay truer for long.

do you have a tensiometer? how much are they off?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO asymmetric bike rim.jpg, 59KiB, 500x500

Anonymous Sat 21 Mar 2020 12:38:36 No.1461972 Report

Quoted By:

>>1455642
to some extent
but there are other avenues
such as using a wider hub or smaller rim to make the spokes more resistant to lateral forces
and E bikes have bought about the wider availability of heavy gauge spokes

on the more obscure end of things is to reduce the dish of the rear wheel
by offsetting the rim or by having a larger hub flange on the drive side

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