/n/ - Transportation » Thread #1458489

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FUCK FUCK FUCK Tue 10 Mar 2020 06:15:55 No.1458489 View View Reply Original Report

Quoted By: >>1458492 >>1458494 >>1458562 >>1458602 >>1458632 >>1461379

I stripped the threads on one of my bike’s cranks because I’m a tard. How do I get my crank off now? I tried hitting it with a hammer and riding it around without the crank bolt in.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 10 Mar 2020 06:36:21 No.1458492 Report

Quoted By: >>1458514

>>1458489
A shop will have special tools to get it off, but the removal will pretty much ruin it (the 'riding-around-without-a-crankbolt method would've ruined it too so I guess you don't mind). Replacements will be anywhere from $30 up depending on what you have and how cheap you're willing to go, and if you don't want square taper-style (so you never have to fuck with this shit ever again) you'll need a bottom bracket too, which is another $15-$20 or so.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO puller.jpg, 28KiB, 558x558

Anonymous Tue 10 Mar 2020 06:46:04 No.1458494 Report

Quoted By: >>1458571

>>1458489
one of these mfs

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 10 Mar 2020 07:32:16 No.1458514 Report

Quoted By: >>1458518

>>1458492
Yeah I’m replacing them anyway so I don’t give a fuck about fucking the whole thing up.

I’ve loosened it a bit so it’s sticking out from the bearing thing a bit, just by a few millimeters. I’m going to keep hammering away for a few hours.

Everything I’ve taken off this bike has been over tightened to shit by the factory.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 10 Mar 2020 07:46:38 No.1458518 Report

Quoted By:

>>1458514
Once the crank arms move at all they should come off pretty easy... Don't hammer at the axle if that's what you're doing. The axle is attached to the bottom bracket, which is threaded on and will need a wrench and a special tool to get out. You'll never get that out without getting the cranks off first.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 10 Mar 2020 13:35:05 No.1458562 Report

Quoted By:

>>1458489
I can tell you how, but it's going to cost you $2000 in Park Tool:tm: branded products

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO download.png, 181KiB, 1745x757

Anonymous Tue 10 Mar 2020 14:07:29 No.1458571 Report

Quoted By:

>>1458494
I tried one of those last year but it didn't work. I ended up using a small cutting wheel air tool which also damaged the bottom bracket, which I was planning to replace anyway.

I saw someone recommend a pickle fork if you can find one of the appropriate size.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 10 Mar 2020 16:03:38 No.1458602 Report

Quoted By:

>>1458489
https://youtube.com/watch?v=9n1z2kwmL8o

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO fuvkh.jpg, 330KiB, 1440x1080

Anonymous Tue 10 Mar 2020 19:03:16 No.1458632 Report

Quoted By:

>>1458489
DESTROY

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 14 Mar 2020 01:48:28 No.1459636 Report

Quoted By: >>1459647 >>1459720

OP here, I hacksawed through the crank, hammered in a crowbar and cracked them in half. Bike is working again, thanks /n/erds

Confirmed my suspicions; the cranks were massively over tightened from the factory and there was absolutely nothing in there to act as anti-seize or lubricant of any kind. They had cold-welded.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 14 Mar 2020 02:14:39 No.1459647 Report

Quoted By:

>>1459636
post pics op

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 14 Mar 2020 08:23:40 No.1459720 Report

Quoted By:

>>1459636
And that's exactly why I use grease/antiseize generously on all wrenching projects.
Once I had to get out my impact driver to get a BB out, the threads where seized into the frame to a point where even my breaker bar was useless.
Now I coat every damn screw in either antiseize or loctite.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 19 Mar 2020 07:55:26 No.1461379 Report

Quoted By:

>>1458489
Too late now, but I've taken plenty off with a hammer and coal chisel. Place the blade of the chisel on the back edge of the crank arm. Work around the crank.

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