>>1502368When I had chain drops it was with a single speed chainring, so no ramping whatsoever. and wider teeth, even.
The advantage of hex skewers is a few things. Theft, naturally, but they don't seize up if they get salt water on them, you can't really do them up wrong. I overall feel like they're faster given I have hex keys on hand whenever I need to remove the wheel. Also a bit lighter and cheaper. Mine are fully metal, though, with a steel nut in an alloy sheath. I'd strongly avoid anything that's an alloy threaded nut, they'll strip at rated torques as they corrode.
>not "geometry in the strict sense"I take more of a contemporary position on the nishiki, but the squat geometry of 90's framesets makes it so you really want to get over the back wheel when going down anything technical, which I do occasionally. I typically use it as my gravel bike, though, anymore.
Just as an example, your final hand position on either of the bikes you posted is almost exactly the same as mine--barely forward of the stem in the widest position. Ultimately steering feel is totally determined by where your hands end up. You can run a 400mm stem and as long as the bars sweep back 360mm you might as well be running a 40mm stem with no sweep.
