>>1526295personally I'd throw that shock in the garbage and get a rigid one that retains the same geometry.
it's just a lot of dead weight for a presumably not-very-good shock but you can research that.
if you are going to use it off-road, you'd probably want an upgrade.
again, you need to research but that's my gut.
there may be a service kit for that fork if you want to save money and the shock is worth keeping to you.
but maybe not.
a new, sealed, square taper bottom bracket is cheap.
the crankset that fits to it is not, maybe $150+ new but plenty of used ones for half-ish.
there are different styles of bottom brackets and cranks for them which are mostly comparably priced but all depends on the tier quality.
other than that, your major spending will be wheels.
you could cheap out if you don't need off-road durability nor ultralight stuff, but you get what you pay for.
you need wheels with disc hubs and then buy rotors that fit your brakes.
chain may as well replace since you don't know how spent it is and it's ~$15.
squirt penetrating oil both ends of cable housings, unbolt the cables from brakes and derailleurs, detach other ends from levers, and "floss" them back and forth.
if they move freely, keep.
otherwise get a replacement housing and cable kit (cheap.)
keep any brake and derailleur that moves freely (check by hand while cables are unbolted)
they're likely fine, just lube the pivots while you're at it.
check for play on bearings in headset, then spin.
if they aren't smooth you'll feel and hear it.
if smooth and no play you're good.
if not, I'm unsure about cost.
it's likely fine, headsets don't wear fast as other stuff.
so, crankset, wheels, rotors, and bb will get you rolling assuming the parts present are serviceable.
sounds like you're going to be in it at least ~$500 for new but a lot less if you can source decent used gear.
look up if there's a coop around you.
I'm not an expert on current prices so someone else correct me if I'm bad off.
