/n/ - Transportation » Thread #1560810

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Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 10:11:28 No.1560810 View View Reply Original Report

Quoted By: >>1560814 >>1560815 >>1560816 >>1560820 >>1560890 >>1560973 >>1561008 >>1561052 >>1561057 >>1561598 >>1561693 >>1561749

what gearing do you ride?
can you really spin 34-28 at a moderate tempo up a series of long steep hills?
You can't.
so why is that standard road gearing?

Anonymous

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Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 10:16:46 No.1560812 Report

Quoted By:

shouldn't people have gears they can spin comfy mode up mountains?

road gearing has gotten drastically wider in the last few decades. It should keep happening

34-34 should be standard.
Or wider.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 10:20:51 No.1560814 Report

Quoted By:

>>1560810
I have a front triple with an 8sp 11-30 at the back. My lowest gearing is 22-30. Take the triplepill.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 10:21:02 No.1560815 Report

Quoted By:

>>1560810
53/39 x 11-28 for normal riding
53/39 x 11-25 on my race wheels
Just don’t be leglets lmao

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 10:22:31 No.1560816 Report

Quoted By:

>>1560810
>so why is that standard road gearing?
u wut standard is 42x23

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 10:25:43 No.1560818 Report

Quoted By: >>1560844

I ride 53-39 with 11-30 11 speed in a moderately hilly area, about 100-150 meters of climbing per 10 km of riding at most, can go on more flat rides with about half of that climbing though.
I don't mind riding 70-80 cadence up a hill at FTP so I don't need any smaller gears in training and in racing you don't get to go easy up hills anyways so no smaller gears needed either.

I know this is just a bait thread made by someone who will claim that you need to spin at least 95 cadence at all times but no, you don't.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 10:39:57 No.1560820 Report

Quoted By: >>1560822

>>1560810
My current road bike came with 11-34 though
My previous road bike came with 11-32
Yeah, if you buy something with Dura Ace it will probably have closer spacing but that's hardly standard

Why is /n/ full of luddites?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 10:50:03 No.1560822 Report

Quoted By: >>1560824 >>1560825

>>1560820
>11-34
>road bike
is this some 'adventure bike' type thing?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 10:51:33 No.1560824 Report

Quoted By: >>1560827

>>1560822
Endurance road bikes are basically gravel bikes now. And they should be

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 10:55:41 No.1560825 Report

Quoted By: >>1560828

>>1560822
Sure, if anything short of a TT bike is an "adventure bike"

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 11:00:17 No.1560827 Report

Quoted By:

>>1560824
That makes sense, endurance bikes are a good way to get novices introduced to road biking and having clearance for fairly large tires is a good thing for that demographic. Part because it doesn’t limit the surfaces on which they can ride, and part because a lot of them seem to not be able to unweight themselves off the saddle when going over bumps. Big tires soften the blow to the bike and help keep novices from breaking things, especially spokes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 11:03:19 No.1560828 Report

Quoted By: >>1560860

>>1560825
If anything with a big cog of 32t or smaller on the cassette is considered a TT bike then I really am detached from what the cycling industry is trying to get us to consoom.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 11:30:38 No.1560844 Report

Quoted By: >>1560848

>>1560818
that's not even the gearing tier 1 pros will ride in mountain terrain.
So either you're a topographylet or a slow cope gearlet or you should be a pro.

actually you're a self confessed topographylet aren't you
>moderately hilly area

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 11:38:23 No.1560848 Report

Quoted By: >>1560850

>>1560844
He said ‘moderately hilly’, not HC climb territory.
>waaaahhhhhh everyone should live next to mountains for my narrative
Get a grip BOY

Anonymous

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Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 11:38:58 No.1560849 Report

Quoted By: >>1560852

like, are there really roadies who don't seek out the steepest most intense hills possible and ride that all the time ?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 11:40:49 No.1560850 Report

Quoted By: >>1560859

>>1560848
so is it not possible for you to ride horse category tier climbs or do you just choose not to?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 11:43:45 No.1560852 Report

Quoted By:

50/34 x 11-32
Used to ride 11-28 on the back and recently made the switch and I'm loving it. Now I'm always on the big ring on flats and rolling terrain, and can keep a nice cadence on the smaller gears on the steepest stuff. Hell, I'd go 34t smallest cog for dat sweet sweet 1:1 ratio, if I wasn't pushing the limits of my short cage derailleur already.
I thought the bigger cog jumps would be annoying but they aren't, in fact I enjoy actually feeling a substancial difference between speeds, I'm not racing anyone so I don't really need those 1 tooth jumps
>>1560849
rolling terrain best terrain

Anonymous

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Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 11:45:30 No.1560853 Report

Quoted By:

there just seems to be a gap between
>i'm a serious rider, just get stronger lmao, i ride man gears, i'm strong, i race
and
>oh no i don't actually like riding steep hills rather not aye lad dont actually have any near me, just ride muh ftp just ride some rollers

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 12:00:13 No.1560859 Report

Quoted By: >>1560863

>>1560850
I’m not sure I understand the question, I live nowhere near HC climbs. Most people don’t. This thread is about STANDARD road gearing.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 12:07:21 No.1560860 Report

Quoted By: >>1560862

>>1560828
30+ has been standard for at least 10 years now except on bikes that come with $250 cassettes

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 12:10:38 No.1560862 Report

Quoted By: >>1560865

>>1560860
That’s weird, no one I ride with has anything larger than a 30t big cog and they’re all on what I consider normal road bikes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 12:17:26 No.1560863 Report

Quoted By:

>>1560859
do you seek out the hills though lad
do you love em

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 12:23:50 No.1560865 Report

Quoted By: >>1560866

>>1560862
It only became common when groupsets started coming with 10+ gears on the cassette.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 12:25:39 No.1560866 Report

Quoted By:

>>1560865
Still not sure what you’re talking about, I’m still using 10s gear while everyone I ride with is on 11 or 12s. These oversized cassettes are unfamiliar to me.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 13:11:57 No.1560876 Report

Quoted By: >>1560886 >>1560889 >>1561329 >>1561694

Why is Shimano retarded with their fuckhueg cassettes? The spacing for the 11-34 is atrocious. I don't understand why anyone would want to give up tight spacing on the top end for even spacing on the low end. Just make the tooth jumps on the low end bigger and tighten stuff up on the top end, and then I'll take these things seriously.

12t / 25t (243 grams): 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 23, 25.
11t/ 28t (251 grams): 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 28.
11t / 30t (269 grams): 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 27, 30.
11t / 32t (292 grams): 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 25, 28, 32.
11t / 34t (337 grams): 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 30, 34.

I'd sooner go back to riding a triple than use that 11-34 on the road.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 13:30:03 No.1560886 Report

Quoted By:

>>1560876
Big jumps on smaller cogs are less reliable and the consequences of a misfire are not good at high speed

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 13:42:40 No.1560889 Report

Quoted By: >>1561004

>>1560876
>11t / 32t : 11, 12, 13, 14,
>11t / 34t : 11, 13, 15, 17

that's just completely retarded
it's like they just designated that 11-34 was for casuals

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 13:43:40 No.1560890 Report

Quoted By:

>>1560810
>so why is that standard road gearing?
It's not. 39 x 25 is standard.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 15:53:10 No.1560927 Report

Quoted By:

I use a late 90s 3x7 'fitness bike' with 26 36 46 (I think) and cassette 13-30 (need to check my excel). It's perfect for my semi-hilly area. I'm able to spin everywhere and have big enough gears for descents (I'm not that aero with no dropbar so gearing is right for me and my more or less commuter level of fitness).

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 17:57:24 No.1560968 Report

Quoted By: >>1560998

If you're serious about climbing long, steep routes you ride a triple or a 36/26 compact.

Hill-lets need not apply

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 18:16:28 No.1560973 Report

Quoted By:

>>1560810
>so why is that standard road gearing?
Because standard roads don't include a series of long steep hills?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 19:10:46 No.1560998 Report

Quoted By:

>>1560968
fuck off dirt boy

Trybo Bike Tech !T2TiVG4UMA

Trybo Bike Tech !T2TiVG4UMA Wed 14 Oct 2020 19:18:45 No.1561004 Report

Quoted By: >>1561022

>>1560889
That, and older riders - who come from 5-7 speed freewheels. Then it was common for regular people to have 2T jumps all over the cogset.

Trybo Bike Tech !T2TiVG4UMA

Trybo Bike Tech !T2TiVG4UMA Wed 14 Oct 2020 19:21:52 No.1561008 Report

Quoted By: >>1561022 >>1561024

>>1560810
>so why is that standard road gearing?
"Standard" road gearing is what trickles down from the pro peloton. In the time of 8 speed it was 53/39 + 12-23, with 9 speed it was 12-25, 10 speed made people generally switch to compacts and 11-28. With 11 speed the standard shifted to 11-32.

11-25 cassettes in 11 speed exist, but are a niche thing and modern RDs struggle with handling them.

Generally with each added cog, range was expanded towards lower gears.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 19:59:40 No.1561022 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561004
>>1561008
Stop posting

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 20:04:33 No.1561024 Report

Quoted By: >>1561092 >>1561264

50/39/30 with 12-25 and 12-27 cassettes (10speed)
50/34 with 11-28 and 11-30 cassettes (11 speed)

>>1561008
> 11-25 cassettes in 11 speed exist, but are a niche thing and modern RDs struggle with handling them.

Why? Is the extension of the modern RDs to big?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 21:08:55 No.1561052 Report

Quoted By: >>1561053

>>1560810

In the mountains 50/34 and 11-32. in the flats 53/39 and 13-26. I can maintain 80rpm on 34 to 28 on 20km climbs with 5% average

Anonymous

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Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 21:12:49 No.1561053 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561052

forgot, see profile from this summer vacation

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 21:14:25 No.1561057 Report

Quoted By:

>>1560810
I don't know about you, but I really don't care (in b4 you posted so clearly you do blah blah blah). who the fuck gives a toss whether you have 69x420 gearing or not on your rover safety bicycle. This thread is shit, you're shit, this board is shit, this whole web site is shit. go shit you're self. sage.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2020 22:08:37 No.1561092 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561024
>Why? Is the extension of the modern RDs to big?
Because he's making shit up out of his ass. The shape of a short cage rd may be slightly optimized for 11-28, but any short cage RD designed for the system can shift 11-25 without a problem. They don't struggle, they just might technically shift very slightly worse which is a departure from the previous norm where cassettes with less range pretty much always shifted better.

Trybo Bike Tech !T2TiVG4UMA

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Trybo Bike Tech !T2TiVG4UMA Thu 15 Oct 2020 05:42:38 No.1561264 Report

Quoted By: >>1561281 >>1561283 >>1561321 >>1561338 >>1561536

>>1561024
>Why? Is the extension of the modern RDs to big?

Its something that came from MTBs. Modern RDs are built around one specific cassette size. From memory - in Shimano land SS types are for 11-28, GS types are for 11-32. If you veer too much out of that specific size, then shifting quality deteriorates quickly.
For example - if you have a rear mech capable of 11-28, then 11-25 might be doable, but 11-23 is most likely a no go.
For Shimano this pertains to shadow type RDs, for SRAM I think all are affected.
Pic related - 665 SLX, rated for 11-32 to 11-36 and pretty much incapable of doing anything but.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 07:25:26 No.1561281 Report

Quoted By: >>1561294 >>1561536

>>1561264
>For example - if you have a rear mech capable of 11-28, then 11-25 might be doable, but 11-23 is most likely a no go.

Is that based on actual experience ? I have a RD that came with a 11-32 cassette, but I run a 12-25 on just fine

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 07:39:00 No.1561283 Report

Quoted By: >>1561294 >>1561536

>>1561264
Why are you talking about mtb components in a road thread

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 08:10:16 No.1561287 Report

Quoted By: >>1561406

I ride a 24 lb 61cm roadbike in Missouri. I have claris 50 34 up front and 11 28 in the back. I swapped out an 11 32 after wearing it out

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 08:35:46 No.1561294 Report

Quoted By: >>1561307 >>1561536

>>1561281
It's based on shit pulled out of his ass. Current Shimano SS RDs only have to compromise between 5 cassettes which are all very similar in slope from small to large. 11-25, 11-28, 11-30, 12-25, 12-28. You can really tell he's pulling shit out of his ass because he thinks an 11-23 is hard to shift. Because the tooth difference between cogs is small, the pulley doesn't even need to be that close to the cassette. There's no appreciable difference in shift quality between them of you adjust the b screw to match.

If what he said were true, hanger extension links wouldn't work, but they do and despite the big change they only have a moderate effect on shifting. The only issue is "why cant I uses my SGS extra long cage 50t rated RD on a corncob?"

>>1561283
Because he's moving the goalposts from
>11-25 cassettes in 11 speed exist, but are a niche thing and modern RDs struggle with handling them.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 09:32:12 No.1561307 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561294

That might be true. Also, I use a road cassette 11-27 on a XT rd, works fine as well. Had to depth-mill the spider by 1,8mm to install this small range cassette on my mtb hub, but it was worth it. My xc bike came with a 11-40 cassette.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 09:59:42 No.1561314 Report

Quoted By: >>1561316 >>1561317 >>1561318

I rode 10%-15% gradients for 30km with a 39x28. It's far from ideal but doable and wouldn't mind a 39-32 or 34-28 something like that but the ratios you guys are talking about are mountain bike tier ffs.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 10:03:24 No.1561316 Report

Quoted By: >>1561327

>>1561314
>15%
>39x28
>far from ideal
yeah more like a fucking nightmare.
sure if it's a short hill you can stomp on the pedals and fly to the top, try doing it for hours on end though

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 10:04:28 No.1561317 Report

Quoted By: >>1561327

>>1561314
also I'd like to see this 10-15% 30km climb, sounds outrageous

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 10:08:24 No.1561318 Report

Quoted By: >>1561327

>>1561314

Where exactly did you ride 10% average on a 30km climb? That would be like 3000m in height difference uphill, did you climb up a volcano from sea level?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 10:13:09 No.1561321 Report

Quoted By:

Hill work: 52/36 or 50/34 with 11/28 or 11/30 (worst case is short 30%+ pitches)
Flat work: 53/39 with 11/23
Hill repeats (easy, 5%-8%) 50/34 with 11/23

I have tried an 11/34 rear but didn't like it much. It was gappy and the lowest gear was too low for general use, it may be great for occasional "get out of jail" use but it's better to have more usable gears for 99% of the time and fall back to grind 'n' grunt on the 1% of time when super low would be useful.

>>1561264
I'm using an 11/23 with a rear changer that handles up to 30 teeth and it's just dandy. I got a couple of 11/23 cassettes in the closeout bin at an LBS and I love 'em. They're probably as close as you'll get to a non power sapping CVT.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 10:34:14 No.1561327 Report

Quoted By: >>1561330

>>1561316
>>1561317
>>1561318

>>1561316
>>1561317
>>1561318

Tried 3 times to reply with the graph but can't for some reason.

Anyway it's 30km climbing on a 5.7% avg with a short descent in the middle and plenty of 10-15% segments. Took me around 2h20min.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 10:39:15 No.1561329 Report

Quoted By: >>1561335

>>1560876

These large cassettes do make sense, when you‘re begging to shift to another cog just to get a break. Might be better for your knees in the long run too.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 10:40:49 No.1561330 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561327

Ok thanks anyways, 30km / 5,7% average on 39/28 is indeed manageable (and believable).

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 11:13:06 No.1561335 Report

Quoted By: >>1561339

>>1561329
>thread about standard road gearing
>replies with an image of a very non standard route
ya ok

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 11:24:48 No.1561338 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561264
>For example - if you have a rear mech capable of 11-28, then 11-25 might be doable, but 11-23 is most likely a no go.
PLEASE stop posting for everyone’s sake

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 11:34:10 No.1561339 Report

Quoted By: >>1561346

>>1561335

What exactly is standard?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 11:57:26 No.1561346 Report

Quoted By: >>1561352

>>1561339
Something that doesn't have a name like "Maratona dles Dolomites"

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 12:08:53 No.1561352 Report

Quoted By: >>1561353

>>1561346

When you buy a random, entry level road racing bike these days, and you get mostly 11-28, 11-32 cassettes etc - isn’t that a standard then ?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 12:12:48 No.1561353 Report

Quoted By: >>1561359

>>1561352
No race bikes are specced with 11-32 cassettes. A lot nowadays come with 11-30 because that's the published limit of Shimano short cage derailleurs, but companies aren't yet grasping to try and sell people on medium cage RDs on their road race bikes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 12:32:52 No.1561359 Report

Quoted By: >>1561364

>>1561353
>No race bikes are specced with 11-32 cassettes

Just an example I found on first try googling

https://www.bikeexchange.de/a/rennrader/trek/bayern/pettendorf/domane-sl-7/102337938?variant_id=4650758&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkJH_jcy27AIVoRkGAB0WOgzoEAQYAiABEgJis_D_BwE

Not exactly entry level, but it falls into road racing bike category.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 12:42:13 No.1561364 Report

Quoted By: >>1561365

>>1561359
>Domane
lmao try again pal

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 12:43:50 No.1561365 Report

Quoted By: >>1561366

>>1561364

Care to split hairs?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 12:46:22 No.1561366 Report

Quoted By: >>1561373

>>1561365
If you do not understand that endurance frames are for fondo dads I can't have this conversation with you.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 12:58:47 No.1561373 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561366

That‘s probably not the only thing in life you can‘t have

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 14:01:34 No.1561397 Report

Quoted By: >>1561407

46/30 and 11-32, tool getting used to from a normal compact but this rocks

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 14:23:57 No.1561406 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561287
Nearly me, 62 cm with Claris 2400 50/34 and 12-25. Wishing I could get up to at least Tiagra, but that will be a long time.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 14:24:27 No.1561407 Report

Quoted By: >>1561481

>>1561397
based
probably the best gearing possible

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 15:39:36 No.1561438 Report

Quoted By: >>1561439 >>1561445 >>1561480

I just want a freewheel that goes something like
>7sp
>13-15-18-22-26-30-34
>11-14-19-24-28-32-34
>6sp
>13-15-21-26-30-34
>11-15-22-24-28-32
>5sp
>14-18-24-30-34
>11-16-22-28-32

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 15:44:30 No.1561439 Report

Quoted By: >>1561445 >>1561446

>>1561438
By this I mean all the mega[brandword] freewheels have a huge jump to the last gear.
Look at this shit.
>13-15-17-19-21-24-34
_why_

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 15:51:52 No.1561445 Report

Quoted By: >>1561447

>>1561439
The reason for bigger gaps on the low end of the cassette is because
1. proportionality makes it so and
2. if your chain is in the big cogs it means you're probably going fairly slow relative to if your chain was in the small cogs, so larger cadence jumps aren't nearly as annoying.
>>1561438
Just seeing these abominations on paper makes me want to punch a hole in the wall.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 15:53:37 No.1561446 Report

Quoted By: >>1561447 >>1561782

>>1561439
megarange was based
it's like the cassette equivelant of a halfstep plus granny

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 15:57:13 No.1561447 Report

Quoted By: >>1561467

>>1561446
>>1561445
But I want to do the big jump on the chainring side lol

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 16:26:00 No.1561467 Report

Quoted By: >>1562041

>>1561447
That still doesn't explain why you want smaller jumps between the >28t cogs than the <20t cogs.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 16:57:06 No.1561480 Report

Quoted By: >>1561709

>>1561438
Sunrace MFM-300
>14-16-18-21-24-28-34
IRD and DNP make ones that go 28-32 at the end too IIRC

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 16:58:37 No.1561481 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561407
Climb up 30% gradient? Check. Push 8% gradient in the big ring? Check. Cruise at comfy 25-30k on flats? Check. Over 45k on flat? Ok maybe not but fuck that.

Trybo Bike Tech !T2TiVG4UMA

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Trybo Bike Tech !T2TiVG4UMA Thu 15 Oct 2020 19:20:35 No.1561536 Report

Quoted By: >>1561565 >>1561597

>>1561281
It depends what RD it is. Precisely - what I said pertains solely to modern shadow type RDs and similar designs. For those it is trivially reproducible. Frankly - it was a costly finding for me back in 2009-ish. I bought two 660 series SLX RDs and tried to use them 11-28-ish cassette.

>>1561283
Because its relevant, as underlying principle is the same.

>>1561294
Are you aware that you are arguing my point? Also - hanger extenders don't work with _maybe_ wolftooth roadlink. And even then what they are doing is the same trick shimano does with Zee FR/DH. See attached pic. This is Zee DH over 11-25 cassette. It barely works on the lower gears because of the massive B-gap. Zee DH according to shimmy works over 11-28 to 11-23. Except 11-23 does not work at all - I tried.

By the way: >>1561264 this is the experience you asked about. In my experience - shifting quality of those RDs deteriorates quickly when you go away from their "golden" ratio.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 20:25:01 No.1561565 Report

Quoted By: >>1561597

>>1561536
My R8000 RD shifts fine between 11-25, 11-28, and 11-30. I've raced with all three cassettes and never once did I think "damn I must not be using the right cassette because my shifts suck I wish Trybo were here to tell me some dumb shit"

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 22:08:10 No.1561597 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561536
>Are you aware that you are arguing my point?
He's not.
> Also - hanger extenders don't work with _maybe_ wolftooth roadlink.
The wolftooth roadlink is literally a hanger extender.
>The RoadLink™ derailleur hanger extension is a unique patented device that offsets the position of your road derailleur to make it possible to run a wide-range mountain bike style cassette.
>This is Zee DH
This is a thread about road gearing retard. No one in this thread gives a shit that you're a failure of a mechanic that can't set up MTB gears right. We all know because of your massive ego and larping as an expert you're too scared of asking for help and would rather just declare Shimano road derailers can't shift 11-25 though.

>>1561565
He has terminal brain damage and he thinks that makes him an expert.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2020 22:11:14 No.1561598 Report

Quoted By:

>>1560810
>can you really spin 34-28 at a moderate tempo up a series of long steep hills?
yes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 03:20:43 No.1561693 Report

Quoted By: >>1561706

>>1560810
>he doesn't have a wide-range cassette and mid-compact chainrings
36/52 and 11-32 11-speed.
Plenty of big gears for the flats, plenty of climbing gears for climbing mountains.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 03:23:30 No.1561694 Report

Quoted By:

>>1560876
Because when you're on the smaller cogs (11, 12, 13, etc) you're generally on the big chainring, so the cadence jumps are bigger than when you're on the small chainring.
When you're climbing you're usually on the small chainring and the bigger cogs.
The cadence jumps are more even between the two scenarios with the cogs arranged the way they are.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 03:52:32 No.1561706 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561693
cringe
50x11 is enough

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 04:21:19 No.1561709 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561480
Almost perfect but I feel like I'm going to have to buy 2 different sunrace freewheels and combine them. Fuck. At least they aren't chinkshit like DNP (taiwan company, made in shanghai...)

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_6398.jpg, 882KiB, 2550x1818

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 04:42:01 No.1561714 Report

Quoted By: >>1561731

It was
26,39,53
11 13 15 17 20 23 26 30 34

and i changed it to
12 13 15 17 20 23 26 30 34
with a loose 12t cog

i want to buy another 2 cassettes and join them to make
13 14 15 17 20 23 26 30 34
or
13 14 15 18 21 24 28 32 36

53x13 is basically 46x11

and 26x34 is basically 30x42

so 9 speed 53/39/26 & 13-36 is like 11 speed 46/30 & 11-42, except you get 3 straight gears at the top end, 13-14-15 instead of 11-13-15

I have ridden this bike up the steepest street in the world (34.8%)

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 06:24:19 No.1561731 Report

Quoted By: >>1561741

>>1561714
You could just switch to a 50t outer ring.
>zoom in pic
>campagNOlo
I guess not anon I am sorry for your lots.

Assembling 9-speed cassettes with junior 13/14t end cogs is good, just make sure you get the right end cogs, you can't use flat cogs as end cogs. the end cog needs an integrated spacer to mesh with the splines and sometimes needs a 2nd to end cog with a recess for the end cog's spacer.

After buying 2x11 with a 46/30 crank to experience meme rando gearing, I bought a 11-36 cassette and now I'm realizing what a meme it is. 3x9/10 would have been better since I'm not a Q conspiracy theory autist.

I'm tried 22x34 before though and there's a certain point it just gets silly testing on my 25% grade hill nearby.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 06:52:00 No.1561741 Report

Quoted By: >>1561753

>>1561731
nah man those are TA rings and TA still make 47,48,49,50,51,52,53,54,55 & 56t campag 135bcd meme rings
I could change it

It's more just that I think i need a new cassette soon
and i'd like to have the 1t gaps at the top end. a 50t big ring wouldn't fix that.
plus 53t is just cool.

I think 3x9/10 is great but it needs to be with friction front shifting and STI/ergos are also very nice to have. I like both. what's so bad about your rando setup? Just too wide spacing on the cassette? switch to 11-32 then it's excellent.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 08:26:04 No.1561749 Report

Quoted By: >>1561754

>>1560810
>what gearing do you ride?
Depends on the bike, on my roadbike it's 50/34 11-28
>can you really spin 34-28 at a moderate tempo up a series of long steep hills?
Depends on how steep they are.
I can maintain my prefered cadence on the hills in my area, so it's ok for my use case.
>You can't.
I can in most places, for exceptions I'm mounting a larger cassette, like an 11-34 or 11-40.
>so why is that standard road gearing?
Because marketing wank and 34T is the smallest ring that fits 110mm BCD properly, also proper 52/36/24 tripples and 3x brifters are rare.
52/36/24 with an 11-28 would probably be the ultimative all-purpose road gearing most road bikes should come with.
>close spacing from 11-28
>tall gear from 52T
>climbing gear from 24T
>middle gear with enough overlap from 36T

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 08:53:28 No.1561753 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561741
>I think 3x9/10 is great but it needs to be with friction front shifting and STI/ergos are also very nice to have.
Shimano index fronts work very well if you stick to the big/middle ring it was meant to pair with and the proper FD. You can still sub the 30t for 28t or 26t, the trick is to hold the shift lever (slight overshift) until the shift happens instead of just click and expect it to shift on cable tension alone.
> what's so bad about your rando setup? Just too wide spacing on the cassette? switch to 11-32 then it's excellent.
It's just a meme when compared to a nice road triple set up like 50/39/26 x 11-28 (5 1t jumps in middle and 5 in big) which gives you both close gears and wide range. I don't actually like the medium-wide cassettes for 46/30. 46 is bigger than 39 so I find myself wanting narrow cassettes so I get the 1t jumps closer to cruising speed (~17mph) which is ~46x18. On a triple it's ~39x15. Triple lets me use a wider cassette and get a smaller small chainring than the 46/30 meme double if I want to keep the 1t jumps down to 17mph. I end up with a higher topend too and don't have to shift the front much if I stay in the middle as a bonus.

So now I bought an 11-36 because fuck 1t 46/30 won't give it to me without junior cassettes, which gives me a low of 30x36 but if I was on a 50/39/26 triple I could have just gotten an 11-32 to get the same low. I don't really benefit from low Q because my feet splay outwards so all I need is lowish U at the spindle.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 09:01:00 No.1561754 Report

Quoted By: >>1561758

>>1561749
39x11-X or 42x12-X makes a better middle ring because it minimizes the amount you have to shift from middle, and 50x11 or 52x12 is plenty high as an overdrive gear and means you don't have to really compensate in the rear as much or at all.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 09:24:47 No.1561758 Report

Quoted By: >>1561760 >>1561766

>>1561754
>39x11-X or 42x12-X makes a better middle ring because it minimizes the amount you have to shift from middle
The gap between 39 and 24 would be significantly larger, I'd prefer it with a 36T.
That's allready 150% as long as the 24T while the 52T is 144,4% as long as the 36T, giving me reasonably even steps.
>and 50x11 or 52x12 is plenty high as an overdrive gear and means you don't have to really compensate in the rear as much or at all.
I don't quite understand what you meant to say.
But 52:11 is a good final gear, maybe a little short for drafting, but in normal riding you avoid the less efficient and less durable smaller sprockets a little more.

But to be fair:
The kind of gearing you need depends a lot on the rider and kind of rides you want to make.
I tend to spin 100-130 rpm.
A friend of mine struggles to do 90 rpm.
So the standard gearing on a bike should cover high and low cadence riders with a tall gear like 52:11 for low cadence riders in a sprint and a small gear like 24:11 for high cadence riders on a steep climb.
If you spin up a hill at 120 rpm, you realy want these short gears as you otherwise would need to push absurd power/weight ratios to maintain your cadence.
If you can't realy spin fast for anatomical reasons and anything beyond 80 rpm is wasting energy, you realy need that 52T.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 09:44:57 No.1561760 Report

Quoted By: >>1561764

>>1561758
No, you really don't need 52x11 at 80rpm, that's 30mph and 50 is only 4% less. I'm not saying it would never get used, its rare enough that it's not needed. The bigger jump from middle to small is negated by the fact that you have to shift from middle to big less often because it gives you more high end.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 10:06:41 No.1561764 Report

Quoted By: >>1561769

>>1561760
>No, you really don't need 52x11 at 80rpm, that's 30mph and 50 is only 4% less.
That's not exactly an impossible speed, I exceed that whenever I sprint.
>I'm not saying it would never get used, its rare enough that it's not needed.
I'd argue that it's needed in pretty much every other ride for low cadence riders.
>The bigger jump from middle to small is negated by the fact that you have to shift from middle to big less often because it gives you more high end.
The 36T with the 11-28 gives me a good range in the middle, from normal climbs up untill cruising speed.
That is also an advantage in city riding as you could keep it in the middle ring there.
The overlap between the 24T and 36T is important and would be too small with a 39T.
That's a 62,5% jump from 24T to 39T, significantly larger than the 47% jump from 34T to 50T

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 10:21:12 No.1561766 Report

Quoted By: >>1561769

>>1561758
>But 52:11 is a good final gear, maybe a little short for drafting
Drafting what exactly?
inb4 it’s the German obsessed with trucks

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 10:48:51 No.1561769 Report

Quoted By: >>1561777

>>1561764
No one sprints at 80rpm, and it's literally a 4% difference. There's the physical problem of generating torque because torque*rpm = power. It's half a 1t gear. There is no reason you couldn't use a 39t in city riding, you're not gearing down to 36x28 because of stop lights. On the other hand, you might very well be using 11/12 to keep up with traffic or try to make lights, and 39 gives you a gear or two on top of 36 which you can spin out on. The second gear comes from sometimes the chain in 36x11 will hang up on the big ring and in 39x11 it won't. 36 is more of a bridge ring than a cruising plus a little climbing and speed ring, especially for lower cadence riders. Overlap matters from middle to big because of 1t jumps, it doesn't really matter from middle to small. Once you've committed to small you don't really need to come out of it until you crest. The 12.5% you're complaining about is just a 1 gear jump. You only have to compensate one more gear when shifting between middle and small.

>>1561766
Drafting people who sprint in 54x11 I guess.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 12:02:46 No.1561777 Report

Quoted By: >>1561791 >>1561794

>>1561769
>No one sprints at 80rpm, and it's literally a 4% difference.
I know some people that can't spin for shit, but are pretty fast in the flats.
>you might very well be using 11/12 to keep up with traffic or try to make lights, and 39 gives you a gear or two on top of 36 which you can spin out on.
At 36:11 and 130 rpm, I'm allready at 54 km/h, wich is not exactly a speed I'd ride in the city unless it's downhill or a sprint, it wich case I could shift up to 52T.
>sometimes the chain in 36x11 will hang up on the big ring and in 39x11 it won't.
The gap between the 52/36 rings is the same as on 50/34, wich works perfectly fine in my experience.
>36 is more of a bridge ring than a cruising plus a little climbing and speed ring
That's the point of it, it's in the middle.
Short enough to get off a red light or up a hill, large enough to do ~30 km/h in 36:15 at 100 rpm.
>Overlap matters from middle to big because of 1t jumps, it doesn't really matter from middle to small.
It does as you can stay in one ring longer on a variable climb.
>Once you've committed to small you don't really need to come out of it until you crest. The 12.5% you're complaining about is just a 1 gear jump. You only have to compensate one more gear when shifting between middle and small.
That depends on how many speeds you run in the back, but 39 in the middle would suck for climbs as you're allready going 17,5 km/h in 39:28 at just 100 rpm cadence.
A 75 kg ride would need to push about 450W on a medium climb at that speed.
That's simply not sustainable for most riders and he'd have to shift down a lot sooner on a shallow climb in the ~5-6% range.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 12:51:17 No.1561782 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561446
This looks pretty dope...

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 13:13:46 No.1561791 Report

Quoted By: >>1561797

>>1561777
>I know some people that can't spin for shit, but are pretty fast in the flats.
Not 30mph at 80rpm fast, it's simply a matter of torque. It's hard to produce high power without high revs.
>At 36:11 and 130 rpm, I'm allready at 54 km/h, wich is not exactly a speed I'd ride in the city unless it's downhill or a sprint, it wich case I could shift up to 52T.
36x11 is likely going to rub a 52t chainring because there's a 16 gap. 130rpm is way out of the range of anyone normal outside of sprinting and you don't want to have to mess with front shifting if trying to keep up with traffic or doing a sprint for a yellow light.
>The gap between the 52/36 rings is the same as on 50/34, wich works perfectly fine in my experience.
These rub on small-small all the time unless you have long chainstays.
>That's the point of it, it's in the middle.
It shouldn't be in the middle because the power requirements of climbing are linear but the power requirement of going fast are not. It shouldn't be in the linear middle.
>Short enough to get off a red light or up a hill, large enough to do ~30 km/h in 36:15 at 100 rpm.
Are you saying you're seriously such a leglet that you can't push 39x28 (36x26) from a stop? Seriously?
>It does as you can stay in one ring longer on a variable climb.
According to your 130rpm is a reasonable cadence argument, say you don't do small-small, you have 24x12 in the small ring, so that's about 21mph, plenty for any kind of climbing. The difference between 36 and 39 is one gear of overlap.
>That depends on how many speeds you run in the back, but 39 in the middle would suck for climbs as you're allready going 17,5 km/h in 39:28 at just 100 rpm cadence.
The 24x12 is 16mph(26kmh) at 100 rpm. You should just be in the small ring at that point. If you're going to be pushing harder than that when climbing, then you don't need a 24t granny unless you're gearing specifically for freakish gradients, and if that's the case you arent in middle

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 13:24:21 No.1561794 Report

Quoted By: >>1561800

>>1561777
Anyways, I can't deal with the dishonest argument that you need a 52t because some people might go 30mph at 80 rpm and triples should be for everyone, then you saying the middle ring should be picked around your 130rpm cadence. 50x11 is a high gear that's only half a gear less than 52x11. It's higher than the 53x12/13 pros used to use. If you want small rings because you have an unusually high normal cadence of 130, that's up to you, but don't pretend like it's for everyone anymore at that point.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 13:37:16 No.1561797 Report

Quoted By: >>1561801 >>1561803

>>1561791
>Not 30mph at 80rpm fast, it's simply a matter of torque. It's hard to produce high power without high revs.
To be fair, that guy is an absolute unit and rides a 70 cm frame.
>36x11 is likely going to rub a 52t chainring because there's a 16 gap.
34T isn't rubbing on 50T either.
>130rpm is way out of the range of anyone normal outside of sprinting
That's how I climb.
>you don't want to have to mess with front shifting if trying to keep up with traffic or doing a sprint for a yellow light.
Exactly, that's why 36T is a good size mid ring.
>These rub on small-small all the time unless you have long chainstays.
Not in my experience, but that depends on the chainline as well, with a tripple the 34T is more in the middle and the 52T further outside, wich would make rubbing less likely.
>Are you saying you're seriously such a leglet that you can't push 39x28 (36x26) from a stop? Seriously?
I can push 50:11 from a red light, it's just a matter of accelleration.
Allthough I'd probably drop below my preferd cadence in a climb in 39:28.
>>It does as you can stay in one ring longer on a variable climb.
>According to your 130rpm is a reasonable cadence argument, say you don't do small-small, you have 24x12 in the small ring, so that's about 21mph, plenty for any kind of climbing. The difference between 36 and 39 is one gear of overlap.
>>That depends on how many speeds you run in the back, but 39 in the middle would suck for climbs as you're allready going 17,5 km/h in 39:28 at just 100 rpm cadence.
>The 24x12 is 16mph(26kmh) at 100 rpm. You should just be in the small ring at that point. If you're going to be pushing harder than that when climbing, then you don't need a 24t granny unless you're gearing specifically for freakish gradients, and if that's the case you arent in middle
Do you not understand the concept of overlap?
You don't want to shift a lot in the middle of a climb.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 13:41:18 No.1561800 Report

Quoted By: >>1561807

>>1561794
That tripple should be a basic that works for everyone.
Most beginners won't spin out the 36:11 outside of sprints, if they do there is still the 52T that is sufficient for even strong riders.
The gap between the 36T and 24T is small enough to have sufficient overlap and not making the 24T just a bailout gear.

The idea is to have a drivetrain that fits every rider in almost every situation.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 13:45:07 No.1561801 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561797
If you're climbing in 24, then you don't need to be in 39. You can get higher than 2:1 in 24, and you're complaining about a difference of one rear gear comparing 39 vs 36. If you have 5 gears of overlap with 36, you have 4 gears of overlap with 39. There's still a lot of overlap, and either way, there's enough range in the cassette that if you need 24x28, you probably aren't leaving 24.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 13:48:56 No.1561803 Report

Quoted By: >>1561808

>>1561797
>130rpm is way out of the range of anyone normal outside of sprinting
>That's how I climb.
Prove it

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 14:00:25 No.1561807 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561800
>Most beginners won't spin out the 36:11 outside of sprints
And if they need lower than 39x28 they would have shifted at that point. Why base the middle ring around beginners when shifting it one gear higher doesn't appreciably harm them?
> if they do there is still the 52T that is sufficient for even strong riders.
50t is sufficient for even strong riders except for some reason you think merely strong riders are getting within 5% of pro sprinter speeds.
>The gap between the 36T and 24T is small enough to have sufficient overlap and not making the 24T just a bailout gear.
It's literally 1 gears worth of difference in the overlap. You also have no idea what your talking about. The middle ring can't make the small ring not a bailout gear. The middle ring has absolutely no effect on the gear range of the small ring. The small ring is always going to have a range of 24x11 to 24x28 in this case. Having to shift from the middle ring one gear earlier doesn't suddenly make 24 a bail out where it wasn't with 36.
>The idea is to have a drivetrain that fits every rider in almost every situation.
Yes, and 39 is closer to 1x chainrings than 36. SRAM doesn't even make a road 36 1x chainring. the smallest is 38. If you want something for everyone, 39x11 at 70rpm is only 20mph, and there are many more people pushing 70rpm than 130rpm. Kill the topend of the middle and people suddenly feel like they've outgrown the triple because they're mostly using the big ring or the small ring. 39x28 at a healthy 90rpm is 10mph, 36 changes it to 9mph, which you are treating like the end of the world when 24x11 goes up to 15-16mph at the same cadence.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 14:03:37 No.1561808 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561803
>>130rpm is way out of the range of anyone normal outside of sprinting
>>That's how I climb.
>Prove it
I somehow missed responding to that, thanks for pointing it out. Note the word NORMAL. 130rpm climbing is abnormal. Lance "spin2win not-a-doper" Armstrong was 90-100rpm on climbs and that was considered abnormal.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 23:13:22 No.1562009 Report

Quoted By: >>1562013 >>1562017

Is there a reason for any non-pro or crit racer to use 53/39 over 50/34? I use a compact with an 11-28 and it's nice. On flats I can spin at a high RPM at 20mph with still have a few lower gears to go faster. Don't see why you'd need more.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 23:20:37 No.1562013 Report

Quoted By:

>>1562009
Can’t speak for 53 but I have a 52 crank on one road bike and a 50 on the other and it mainly just feels different. Like the 52 just feels faster somehow, and I feel like I ride faster with it. Totally subjective but just something I’ve noticed.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2020 23:26:54 No.1562017 Report

Quoted By:

>>1562009
No, not really.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2020 01:24:45 No.1562041 Report

Quoted By:

>>1561467
If I can't find a good ratio while climbing I end up stalling out. Too low and don't move fast enough to outrun gravity, too high and I run out of gas.
I have yet to find a need for close ratios on flatter areas. My bikes are presently are a 2x6, 2x5, and... a 1x7 that actually is a triple because the original crank broke. I don't think a FD will fit on it (fat with road tires) so if I need the lower fronts I kick-stick shift it.
Moving the chain by kicking it or stopping and grabbing a stick.

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