>>1673709depending on the age and type of bike most of the tools are generic, you might already have a bunch of them laying about
open end wrench 7 to 19 mm - for some jobs two of the same size are needed .eg 10 mm - combination ratchet's for speed
allen key 2 to 8 mm - T handle is nice
torx bits, on disk brakes mostly
KNIPEX 86 06 250 / really big adjustable wrench something larger than 40 mm jaw opening, some head sets and bottom brackets are tough
a set of punches to walk out press fit bearing races
zip ties and mentholated spirits to take hand grips on and off
full tang flat bladed cabinet screwdriver, has many uses, bending / make shift chisel
dead blow hammer / soft mallet, for quill stems and press fit bearings
channel lock - to deal with knurled parts that get stuck
a really good #2 Phillips screwdriver (pozidriv and JIS be dammed to hell)
NGL2 geese, prevent rust, pack bearings
thin oil, for cables and lightly loaded pivots
only buy bike specific tools as needed, as there are a lot of them around anything to do with bearings or sprockets
Freewheel and cassette removers are pretty random and fragile
bottom brackets and head sets can require the force of the gods to remove, as can seat posts and quill stems, rust is hell
cone wrenches (16 and 17mm) are common among old shimano type hubs
spoke wrench - use at your own risk
pin wrench for dust caps
cir clip pliers - hardly ever needed really
crank extractor - what year is this ?
chain breaker for 3/32 chain (the pins on this bend very easy)
Master Link Pliers - bare hands also work fine
tire levers, metal coated in plastic is the best combo, metal alone scratches rims and the fully plastic ones snap in half sometimes
floor pump with a good valve head, makes things quick and easy, 30 to 50 psi for wide tires 60 to 80 psi for thin tires, wear ear plugs yo
