>>1699665>https://www.halfords.com/bikes/hybrid-bikes/apollo-transfer-mens-hybrid-bike---18in-21in-frames-626581.htmlFirst of all those Stamped metal V brakes are horrific, they can be forced to work but they flex a lot and wear out quickly
they are the first thing I would change if I owned this bike
pic shows Tourney Derailleurs of the model code TY21
https://www.velo-urbain.ca/en/tourney-ty21-6-7-speed-derailleur.htmlthe Frame is claw mount so it can not fit more modern direct mount without some ghetto hacks
3x6 is a bit archaic, id have expected at least 3x7 even with a Freewheel (maybe the Over lock nut distance is 126mm)
Freewheel ratchet and Paul mechanisms tend to wear out more quickly than free hub body's, but they are cheep and can easily swapped
the biggest issue with freewheels is that a large section of the drive side axle is unsupported, so under heavy use this part tends to bend
Frame is Heavy THick steel, 1020 at best, I expect the total bike to weigh between 15 and 17 kg
the wheels might be double walled but that's a low chance
>https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/ribble-hybrid-al-nx-leisure-edition/not really much to say about it
disk brake mounts tend to make the chain stays and forks stiffer, and they also require more robust Tangential Spoke lacing, but they perform better in the wet
just hope you can get brake pads for them, disk brakes have all sorts of funky pad shapes, and make sure to get the right oil to top up the hydraulic pistons (o ring seals)
I have used and fixed SRAM 1x gearing systems
make sure the RD does not get bent, make sure the B screw is adjusted perfectly, take note of the clutch
being a modern bike It will have some sort of freehub, and a farely wide over lock nut distance,
modern wheels are farely strong aside form the fact they often come in larger diameters
