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A 10, 12 or 14 speed is all you need.
Take the sunrace megaspeed freewheel. Only 11$. But it has a range of 14-34.
Combine it with a 35-42 and you can granny up hills pretty well. Why such small combo. Because you don't really need any higher gear above 90 rpm at 45 kph considering 90 rpm is optimal cadence. Another benefit is the low cost of the parts. You can use freewheels instead of cassettes. Thicker chains.
Low gearing is more important on a bicycle than ultra high because 75%+ of the time you have a headwind. What about going down hill you say? I am not talking about racing but cycling for transport. Just coast if you go downhill and you top out your cadence.
Also, friction shifters are the best shifters ever. They are so easy to adjust. Indexing is too finicky of a job. Older vintage derailleurs are also so simple that even a total beginner could figure how to set the limit screws by just looking at the mech.
Internal cables are a disaster just meant to keep bike shops in business. Quill stems are fine and make for easy adjusting and there's no need to go to Ahead if you are now using quill. The only proper saddle is a leather one.
Cup and cone is wonderfully simple and all these new bottom bracket standards make field repair a mess.
Latex innertubes, use them whenever you can.
Vintage steel rimmed wheels are also based because they never wear out until the rust gets the best of them. Alu rims do offer better breaking but you are destroying your wheel in the process. Hydro and discs are bad.
Your bike must have a tire clearance for 37 mm tires and 32 mm is great for all round.
A low Q-factor of sub 150mm is desireable. Stop converting 90s MTBs.
Most people ride on too long cranks and would benefit greatly by going down to 160 and 150mm cranks. You will see this happen the next 10 years
Carbon fibre should never been invented and plastics suck
Take the sunrace megaspeed freewheel. Only 11$. But it has a range of 14-34.
Combine it with a 35-42 and you can granny up hills pretty well. Why such small combo. Because you don't really need any higher gear above 90 rpm at 45 kph considering 90 rpm is optimal cadence. Another benefit is the low cost of the parts. You can use freewheels instead of cassettes. Thicker chains.
Low gearing is more important on a bicycle than ultra high because 75%+ of the time you have a headwind. What about going down hill you say? I am not talking about racing but cycling for transport. Just coast if you go downhill and you top out your cadence.
Also, friction shifters are the best shifters ever. They are so easy to adjust. Indexing is too finicky of a job. Older vintage derailleurs are also so simple that even a total beginner could figure how to set the limit screws by just looking at the mech.
Internal cables are a disaster just meant to keep bike shops in business. Quill stems are fine and make for easy adjusting and there's no need to go to Ahead if you are now using quill. The only proper saddle is a leather one.
Cup and cone is wonderfully simple and all these new bottom bracket standards make field repair a mess.
Latex innertubes, use them whenever you can.
Vintage steel rimmed wheels are also based because they never wear out until the rust gets the best of them. Alu rims do offer better breaking but you are destroying your wheel in the process. Hydro and discs are bad.
Your bike must have a tire clearance for 37 mm tires and 32 mm is great for all round.
A low Q-factor of sub 150mm is desireable. Stop converting 90s MTBs.
Most people ride on too long cranks and would benefit greatly by going down to 160 and 150mm cranks. You will see this happen the next 10 years
Carbon fibre should never been invented and plastics suck
