>>1987582Kinda above my head, but top tube length(virtual for sloping, actual for vintage horizontal top tubes) is easily measurable. That distance can shorten with a steeper seat tube, and slacker headtube. It can lengthen with a steeper head tube, and a relaxed seat angle.
"reach" is a measurement from the center of bb, up to a perpendicular point to then reach out to the steerer.
Again, the head tube angle can change this. Head tube length can change this too, but both of these are small changes. Biggest change would be top tube length, since the longer it is generally the further your reach will be if.
I would question if the reach measurements and top tube measurements are done the same way. BITD bike frames could be measured via the seat tube and be center to top of tube, center to center of tube, and whackily center to top of top tube more like the vertical reach line.
Maybe someone is fucking up.
> If reach and stack are not matched between an old bike and a new bike, then a) reach will be too short/long needing a stem change b) stack will be too long/short, needing more/less spacers. And if you run out of stem length/go too low on the spacers, you will be uncomfortableRiders adapt, you will need to find out how the bike feels if it's worse, better, or just different. Eventually if the first bike is your preferred setup you will change the current bike to be close to that.
It's what I do over time... intentionally or not.
Oh, and the more fit you get the more you can tolerate more extreme saddle to bar positions.
TL:DR
yeah
