/n/ - Transportation » Thread #2031441

>>2031447
he won't be a pro for long after slipping off those hoods when hitting a bump, the levers are supposed to be aligned vertically, not backwards.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2025 12:14:05 No.2031449 Report

Quoted By: >>2031450 >>2031451 >>2031452 >>2031468

Guy at my local specialized dealership told me that spindle length doesn't matter on square taper bottom brackets. It matters, right? Why would velo orange offer seven different spindle lengths if it didn't matter?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2025 12:49:09 No.2031450 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031449
It's not that it doesn't matter exactly but more that if it works, it works, and there is usually a fairly wide range that can work with any given setup and given that square taper cranks are usually on cheap bikes and cheap themselves it's not worth overthinking. Beyond that it's fairly complicated.

I like having a narrow q-factor (pedals closer together) and so do most people so really you want to try and get it as narrow as you can.

The original or mfg recommended width is usually conservatively wide.

Given repeated and bad installs crank tapers can wallow out.
The bottom bracket tapers, even within one 'standard' are often different sizes.
So how far a crank even sits on one width can be quite random.

Obviously you can't have the chainring or the crank arm hit the frame but you also can't exceed what the limit screws of the derailer will allow, and sometimes derailers can shift badly at their extreme limits, for example the spring might be worn out or the pivots a bit stiff and so the derailer won't return all the way against a wound out low limit, or, your shifters might not enjoy fighting to the end of a stiff spring.

Before you pull a crank to replace a bb, you should work out how much clearance it has to the frame and how much adjustment is left in the limit screws so that you can guess at going narrower or just what available sizes might work.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2025 12:58:04 No.2031451 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031449
also consider that many older cranks (campy), or mismatched cranks require asymmetric spindles

In a standard 68mm frame, you can get the asymmetry with a new cartridge unit, just use a 73mm mtb one and then you have 5mm of spacers that can go either side under the cup.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2025 13:00:33 No.2031452 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031449
There's also chainline, which depending on setup largely doesn't matter / is quite forgiving, but chainline can be optimized, and what the spec sheet says to use is not necessarily optimal

Anonymous

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Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2025 15:21:04 No.2031458 Report

Quoted By: >>2031463 >>2031468 >>2031488 >>2031571

why are gravel bikes so fucking expensive, road bikes as well
it doesnt have suspension, just fancy handlebars desu

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2025 17:13:26 No.2031463 Report

Quoted By: >>2031488

>>2031458
drop bar brifters cost more to manufacture, aside from that the extra cost for road bikes and especially gravel bikes is because the consumer is apparently willing to pay more. the industy also has been hiking up the prices like crazy, even just 10 years ago entry level bikes were way cheaper.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2025 18:34:48 No.2031468 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031458
If you want to be cheap just buy an older hybrid, rigid mtb, or hardtail. The new ones cost what they do since they sell at that price. Road bikes are way cheaper on the used market, so if you want to try out curly bars get a vintage one.

Oh, and the walmart ozark gravel bike is supposedly alright, so that's one way to get a cheaper one.
>>2031449
Other anon is right again.
Your constraints of the spindle is too short=crank hitting frame, too long=cross chaining like a retard. Then there is standards (ISO vs JIS).
After that is q-factor which is kind of a bigger issue long term with clipless. WIth flats you can deal with it fine, but really narrow q-factors are bad for big or fat people who need a wider q, and the reverse is true for narrow hipped people.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2025 22:06:59 No.2031488 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031458
>why are gravel bikes so fucking expensive, road bikes as well
because they're actually good

Your frame of reference for cheap bikes, mtb, hybrid etc, those usually come out of the box with out of true wheels and wild tension, terrible alignment on the brake calipers and all kinds of other cheap fuckery because the price point demands lack of care in the factory.
If you buy one from a bike shop it may be assembled by a mechanic who fixes some of these things and if you buy one from a big box store it probably just comes fucked.

Drop bar bikes are aimed at people who actually ride and are usually higher quality, beyond how good you'd think they'd be on paper. That's true for higher tiers of mtbs and some entry level or hybrid bikes from fancy brands. And if you compare prices on -those- then they're kinda close to drop bar ones.

You may have an idea of what specs you want but it's also worth considering that bikes are often just bad quality beyond the level of the components.

>>2031463
also yeah, cost of brifters, and meme tax

Anonymous

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Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2025 22:24:53 No.2031489 Report

Quoted By: >>2031490 >>2031495 >>2031626

marin four corners 1 2025 changed from sora 3x9 to microshift sword black 2x9 with a shitty square bracket. the latter group set is compatible with a lot of shimano stuff, and so my question is, what is the best route for upgrading this gearset? some online have recommended shimano cues to do something like 46-32 crank with an 11-45 or 11-50 cassette, for instance.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2025 22:34:59 No.2031490 Report

Quoted By: >>2031493

>>2031489
'upgrading' a groupset, especially a new one, ESPEICALLY a new one you haven't evne bought yet, ESPECIALLY ESPECIALLY to something also cheap like cues that isn't even much better, it's just completely retarded, and the best reason to do it would be to get wider gears, but the 46-29 & 11-38 stock gearing is very sensible already. I don't see why you'd want wider unless you were doing some pretty specific form of offroad touring in hills and i think you should try that first.

Square taper is a small weight / stiffness penalty and on a gravel bike like that, changing it would probably not even be perceivable. As long as a cheap groupset is running smoothly, which is usually always possible, even with tourney, upgrading it is disappointing.

If you want to spend money pay more for a bike with GRX off that bat. Because the big limitation of that bike isn't the gearing, it's the cable disc brakes (though spyres aren't bad) and upgrading away from that requires hydro STI levers and it'd be cheaper just to buy something higher spec straight up.

If you wanted to throw money at that bike, you'd do fancy racks, tires, and then nicer wheels maybe with a dynamo hub. But i'd wait on the wheels to see if those don't hold up because if they do then they're fine.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2025 22:48:39 No.2031493 Report

Quoted By: >>2031494 >>2031496 >>2031498

>>2031490
this is good advice, thanks. it'll be my first real bike which ive limited to a budget of 1k so im kind of gung-ho about it. the major upgrades i do plan on right away are the tires and saddle. it is nice to know that the microshift groupset is compatible with shimano, however. i wanted to gauge interest in that compatibility (whether or not it's justified).

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2025 22:59:16 No.2031494 Report

Quoted By: >>2031499 >>2031626

>>2031493
the stock tires and saddle are probably fine man. Id wear out the tires before changing them.

you're gonna find -any- saddle uncomfortable if you aren't used to riding, until you break your ass in. Don't try to upgrade away from muscular pain. If you get benis pain then that's bad but its often a fit adjustment you need rather than a different saddle.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2025 23:02:43 No.2031495 Report

Quoted By: >>2031499

>>2031489
i thought cues for drop bars hadn't even dropped yet? it uses it's own cable pull ratio of 1.2, so it wouldn't work with other shimano brifters

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2025 23:03:20 No.2031496 Report

Quoted By: >>2031497 >>2031499

>>2031493
different guy here,
fwiw, I bought my first set of brifters about a year ago to put on my 2x7 roadie with a blown downtube shifter. obviously nothing top of the line is even made for 2x7 and even if it were, wouldn't make sense to put on an aluminum frame from 1989. so I somewhat arbitrarily got microshift because between them and sensah/any other cheap chinese brifters it seemed like MS had been in business the longest.
so anyhow, I put them on and they're legit. I push the levers and the gears shift. not the snappiest performance but not what I personally would call laggy, either. plus I don't compete so it doesn't really matter anyway. they haven't gone out of adjustment or any problems whatsoever.
I assume Sword is better quality than mine.
I'm not the most demanding customer but I've ridden a lot of bikes over the years and I cannot find any fault in my MS. just werks.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2025 23:06:21 No.2031497 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031496
ps the entire existing drivetrain is old Shimano 105 derailleurs, Shimano cassette, and suntour cyclone crank. no problems.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2025 23:18:58 No.2031498 Report

Quoted By: >>2031499 >>2031626 >>2033167

>>2031493
for saddles, you gotta try a lot of stuff but I wouldn't get an expensive saddle until 1) you break your ass in like he said, and 2) you get your width dialed in by trying different cheap saddles. before you know that, upgrading to an expensive saddle doesn't make any sense. this chart gives you an idea but there's different charts/everyone's different. measure sit bones by mashing ass into corrugated cardboard.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 22 Jan 2025 23:58:33 No.2031499 Report

Quoted By: >>2031500

>>2031494
well the bike is going to be a commuter for a short while so i wanted to invest in puncture-resistant tires with mezcals in the front and either pathfinder or gravelking in the back. anon has also shared similar sentiments in regard to the saddle >>2031498 it is more sound advice
>>2031495
the polish guy who made the remark got too excited
>>2031496
ive read similar feelings toward ms which makes me more comfortable with the stock gearset

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 00:32:18 No.2031500 Report

Quoted By: >>2031501 >>2031562

>>2031499
seems like you're overinvesting in memes and 'research', most tires do a reasonable job of puncture resistance and punctures are usually bad luck, snakebites due to low pressure, or because a tire is old.

plus nice tires (including gravelkingz) are not super puncture resistant because a sturdy sidewall and a thick kevlar belt makes tires uncomfy and sluggish.

I got a puncture in my gravelkangz last time i went touring lol, i don't know why you think they'd be amazingly durable.

Maybe get a puncture first before you invest in puncture resistance.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 00:41:02 No.2031501 Report

Quoted By: >>2031502 >>2031504 >>2031626 >>2031711

>>2031500
i just dont want to get a puncture on my way to work, and there is nothing wrong with researching the countless testimonials, as well as inhouse data from sites like bicyclerollingresistance, on a tire's puncture resistance. do you have experience with vee tire? also i dont care if the ride is sluggish it's not why im interested in a touring bike

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 01:11:03 No.2031502 Report

Quoted By: >>2031503 >>2031507

>>2031501
>countless testimonials
you're gonna find someone crying about getting flats online with pretty much every nice common tire, usually due to poor install or bad luck.

'Researching' puncture resistance is just an exercise in gaslighting yourself and heading down the path of buying Marathon pluses, which are awful to ride.

BRR is basically astrology for bike nerds. Take it with a grain of salt.

>i dont care if the ride is sluggish it's not why im interested in a touring bike
you wanted something with wider tires because it's 'comfortable' and decent offroad right? If you buy the tires that are super beefy then they are not comfortable or good offroad. A pure road bike with nice road 28s is nicer to ride on gravel than a touring bike with marathon plus 35s.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 01:27:39 No.2031503 Report

Quoted By: >>2031506

>>2031502
how many vee tires have ridden the gdmbr?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 02:04:22 No.2031504 Report

Quoted By: >>2031572

>>2031501
keeping your eye on the road several yards ahead of you and picking your line, learning to use your hips to throw the bike around sketchy shit is the way to avoid flats. any flat protection on the tire is insurance but like anon says too much is a bad thing. I rolled some normal marathons thinking I needed the insurance and I still caught a few flats. the marathon plusses and supremes are for people who have like goathead thorns where they live. the regular ones rolled just fine but anything stiffer or deader is not a trade-off I personally would make. I switched to paselas on that bike and I'm not catching any flats beyond one bad luck situation. comparitively, the ride on my gp5ks on my other bike is plush and much grippier than both of them. I caught a flat on them because I took a familiar route for granted, wasn't looking and a bottle had been broken the night before.

paying attention has paid off for me moreso than flat protection, but I think a little bit is fine if it doesn't interfere with the ride quality.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 02:41:51 No.2031506 Report

Quoted By: >>2031572

>>2031503
iunno man, maybe not none

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 03:03:03 No.2031507 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031502
a lot of the "user error" shit is true, but that doesn't mean it's all the same

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 03:27:10 No.2031509 Report

Quoted By: >>2031513 >>2031531

>finally snowed good and the temp wont go up
i hate this part of winter. now it turns to brown salt slush mud that i don't want anywhere near my shit. i stopped riding for now

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 04:32:45 No.2031513 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031509
ok

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 08:59:16 No.2031531 Report

Quoted By: >>2031533

>>2031509
>his rides are dictated by the weather
MTB chads win ONCE AGAIN

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 09:15:31 No.2031533 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031531
who needs hills when you can get resistance via riding through thick mud......

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 19:20:34 No.2031551 Report

Quoted By: >>2031553

did anyone have a fucking question?

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 19:38:13 No.2031553 Report

Quoted By: >>2031554

>>2031551
yeah pls respond to >>2031552
I am extremely braindead, its my first bike and I dont know how the cable and the shield over it works, why did they leave a little piece of unprotected cable like that? are the frame mounting points not big enough for the shield? if thats the case what do I do? detach cable, remove last shielded part, insert new shielded part, insert last shielded part, attach everything back together?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 19:46:03 No.2031554 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031553
It's fine and that looks correct. You run exposed cable since it has no resistance in the cable liner, and you want a section near the rear derailleur so you can remove it easy, clean, lube and replace it easily.
less cable liner the better imo. It's why old vintage road bikes have only a short section

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 21:17:47 No.2031559 Report

Quoted By: >>2031560 >>2031563 >>2031565

is it possible to just bend/replace a derailleur hanger without the tools?, I don't want to do the trip to the bike mechanic, also my rear hydraulic brake has been spongy ever since I left the bike upside down for a week

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 21:28:26 No.2031560 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031559
Yeah steel ones bend okay, aluminum.... maybe not.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 21:39:00 No.2031562 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031500
Tires are the single most important and differentiating component on any bicycle that has ever existed. If there’s ever a time to sit on your ass and research for a week, it’s with tires

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 21:40:13 No.2031563 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031559
Grab an adjustable wrench and be aware that you only get a certain number of re-bends before it snaps off

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 21:53:29 No.2031565 Report

Quoted By: >>2031567 >>2031568

>>2031559
your bike has hydraulic brakes but it doesn't have a replaceable derailleur hanger? I thought they became standard around the same time.
I've heard something about turning upside down fucks up hydro. in any event, if they feel spongy you'll probably have to bleed them.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 22:26:47 No.2031567 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031565
it does but I am the kind of guy that uses shit until it breaks [spoiler:lit]yes I injure myself every 3 months[/spoiler:lit]

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 22:29:12 No.2031568 Report

Quoted By: >>2031569 >>2031578

>>2031565
it does but I am the kind of guy that uses shit until it breaks and yes I injure myself every 3 months

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 22:52:49 No.2031569 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031568
If it's an aluminum hanger just slowly bend it to where it needs to go. With steel go a little beyond and let it bounce back.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 23:03:05 No.2031570 Report

Quoted By: >>2031580 >>2031704

>>2031448
>reddit expert™ doesnt know about aero hoods position

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 23:04:26 No.2031571 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031458
just buy a mountain bike

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 23:33:56 No.2031572 Report

Quoted By: >>2031573

>>2031504
>>2031506
ive changed my mind. ill be choosing a muirwoods just so i can chuck large ass grippy 2.35" tires on it. the idea of having an all terrain bike appeals to my soul. plus, i can get it for $650 used.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO muirwoods.jpg, 102KiB, 1214x768

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2025 23:54:56 No.2031573 Report

Quoted By: >>2031627

>>2031572
they're great but man that is not cheap

Muirwoods are US$570 -new- in NZ atm , though i prefer the older spec ones with deore triples.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 00:09:22 No.2031578 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031568
ok, go nuts, I guess.
an adjustable wrench is the tried and true tool, the handle allows for good leverage and ease of moving it in tiny increments.
the last time I did it, I left the derailleur on and used a jorgensen clamp: one jaw on the inner hanger surface, around the whole derailleur mount, and the other jaw on the mounting bolt. the handles gave pretty good leverage but it was really easy to see how it needed to be moved and line it up with the derailleur still on it. this was a welded steel hanger, though. I still think you should be able to bend yours, though, but I just can't speak from experience.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 00:15:14 No.2031580 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031570
jfc this is not comfortable looking, but if it's fast, it's fast.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 00:23:32 No.2031581 Report

Quoted By: >>2031582 >>2031583 >>2031584 >>2031587 >>2031611

What kind of tool is needed for this?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 00:30:43 No.2031582 Report

Quoted By: >>2031585

>>2031581
Almost looks like a 5mm bolt was shoved in there to stop someone from undoing it...........
I would spray it with penetrating oil, and try and pry that thing out. If it didn't work i would just cut the stem since it doesn't look like safety torx or safety hex.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO quill stem.jpg, 29KiB, 512x512

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 00:31:08 No.2031583 Report

Quoted By: >>2031584 >>2031585

>>2031581
not really visible but it's gonna be a 5 or 6mm allen key.

the bolt draws the wedge up and jams it in the steerer, so what you do is loosen it a little (not all the way, you want the bolt still threaded into the wedge), and then hit it to knock the wedge down.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 00:35:55 No.2031584 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031583
yeah but there's something covering the opening
>>2031581
that bolt takes an allen wrench probably 6mm but it looks like there's a dust cap or something over the head. should pry off somehow .

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 00:52:54 No.2031585 Report

Quoted By: >>2031586 >>2031593

>>2031582
The person undoing it is me. This is a nice set of bars that’s been on a rusted out bike locked outside for years >>2031583
I tried my smallest Allen key and nothing. There’s no grooves or anything to catch on to

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 00:55:23 No.2031586 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031585
I know you are undoing it, I meant someone before you jammed a hex bolt in there to stop it from walking away(imo).
That's why I would just chop the stem in half, pound the quill out of the steerer and get another stem.
Or pry at whatever is in the bolt for a while.
Could try a drill bit but that's a fuck ton of hassle.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 01:02:40 No.2031587 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031581
ok so if that's just some janky fucky thing someone jammed and maybe glued inside the head of the quill bolt for some retarded reason then if you can get it to turn you can get it out.
It might be possible with some needlenose pliers.
Otherwise, cut a slot in the head of it with an angle grinder. Or, the very end of a bare hacksaw blade on an angle with 2 cuts. Then you can turn it and break it loose with a scrap chisel or flathead.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 02:12:20 No.2031593 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031585
it looks like a nut that the previous owner has glued into the stem bolt so nobody could steal the stem/bars/shifters by loosening one bolt while it was locked up.
if I'm right, the inside of the hole is threaded. try straightening a paperclip, sticking it down there, and pulling the end along the inside, if you feel ridges that's threads. you can buy super glue solvent, pour it down the hole and edges, thread a bolt into the hole, and yank it with pliers.
at least, I hope so. that's what I would do. even if it's not threaded, put solvent in there, stick like a drill bit or something the size of the hole and rock it back and forth to loosen the glue.
if not, the destructive methods anons said is your only options.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 07:38:50 No.2031602 Report

Quoted By: >>2031607 >>2031653

I’ve only ridden rim brake steel bikes and I’m looking to rent while abroad. I’ve got an option of a Cannondale Synapse or Super Six Evo.

Would I find a modern endurance bike “boring” to ride coming from vintage geometry? It will be social riding with a club so it probably makes sense. Another bonus with the Synapse is it has mechanical Ultegra rather than Di2.

But I also feels like an opportunity to ride a modern race bike with decent wheels (the Synapse has Fulcrums).

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 08:35:46 No.2031607 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031602
It won't be "boring" but it'll lack "character," but modern bikes are nice so it'll still be fun, especially in your context of a club ride, it's the right tool for the job.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 09:56:43 No.2031611 Report

Quoted By: >>2031653

>>2031581
Looks like a security screw sorry Jamal

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 12:07:21 No.2031624 Report

Quoted By: >>2031625 >>2031649 >>2031653

I'm a marathon runner and I'm just starting in the cycling world. This weekend, if the weather is good, I'll take a train to a village about 50km from where I live and I'll cycle back to my town from there (I live in Europe).

I've never done rides like this, so what should I take with me in terms of maintenance? Later I'll go to the bike shop and I'm thinking about getting:

- Tyre repair spray can (idk how good those are, but they look very handy to use instead of a puncture repair kit)
- A pair of those plastic things to take out the outer tire if necessary
- Mini hand pump
- Spare inner tube
- Oil spray (maybe not to take with me, but to lubricate before I go)

What do you guys think about this list? Should I worry about anything else?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 12:11:24 No.2031625 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031624
you should take a multitool with 4 / 5 mm allen keys and every other major fastener on your bike so that if something slips, a cable snaps, or you crash and your steerer rotates (as it should) then you can fix it.

tyre repair spray is nothing don't get that
yes tire levers, pump and tube, get a glueless patch kit too, those are small and easy to use
don't get 'oil spray', get chain lube if your chain is loud otherwise don't worry about it but yeah you should have chain lube, and a tub of grease but get that from an autoparts store.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 12:21:55 No.2031626 Report

Quoted By: >>2031627

>>2031489
Get the right drivetrain in the first place.

>>2031494
>>2031498

Saddle is VERY personal. That one is fine to change, as soon as you figure which one you should use.

>>2031501
Consider sealant. Also remember that tire conditions vary from place to place. Action packed trip to detroit, vs Southwest desert goatheads, vs french pastoral pave and cobbles.

You probably don't need to go any more durable than basic training tires, unless your commute is in the Gaza strip or New Jersey.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 12:26:55 No.2031627 Report

Quoted By: >>2031628

>>2031573
it is 28% off retail price here in the states and it also comes with the padded wolf tooth grips and aluminum pedals. it seems like a really good bike for the price relative to what is on the market, in particular the bigly tire clearance.
>>2031626
the four corners 1 doesn't come with tubeless compatible rims. neither does muirwoods.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 13:02:13 No.2031628 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031627
https://store.marinbikes.com/products/marin-alloy-mtb-rims-27-5-or-29-32h
>Tubeless compatible

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 13:10:32 No.2031629 Report

Quoted By: >>2031630 >>2031653 >>2031701

Why do bike riders mostly seem to be either peak CONSOOMers who think a bike is antique if it's over 2 years old, or hobos who do shit like reuse cable housing and can't afford tools that cost like $7?
Damn near everyone is either a Fred or a crackhead.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 13:13:48 No.2031630 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031629
don't be defensive just because you're a shit mechanic

I bet i have more nice tools than you.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 17:19:14 No.2031649 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031624
you better get your fit sorted out before you go, and bring the allen wrenches for seat post frame clamp and saddle clamp, all your stem bolts, and the brifter clamp bolts; on your first long ride you will definitely feel what needs to be adjusted. realistically they are 4,5, & 6 mm but check.

have you done any fitting yet at all? the stem height will be the hardest to do on a ride since you need to add/remove spacers. (unless you have an old bike with a quill stem.) if you're new you probably want it high-ish but I'd play around with it (and all aspects of fit) by riding circles around my neighborhood trying it high, low, and medium so you aren't just guessing.
if you don't know what your correct saddle height is you NEED to get it before you do 50k. also have the saddle level and centered in the clamp and move it only micro adjustments if you're getting e.g.wrist pain. do NOT use the saddle clamp to adjust your reach. adjust reach by buying a different length stem. many stems can be flipped which effectively makes them a different reach but also affects stack (height) so you also have to play with the spacers.

there's a lot of fit advice, too much to type but we can narrow it down with your feedback and questions.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 17:28:48 No.2031651 Report

Quoted By: >>2031652 >>2031653 >>2031655

Do threadless headsets always come loose especially if you use the front brakes? Or do I need to replace them and the fork race?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 17:39:20 No.2031652 Report

Quoted By: >>2031655 >>2031689

>>2031651
not him but are there even races on threadless? I thought everything was cartridge bearings.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 17:41:46 No.2031653 Report

Quoted By: >>2031655 >>2031705

>>2031602
Pick the one with the better paintjob.
Both will be a new experience so you can't lose.
>>2031611
good call. Never seen that before.
>>2031624
Allen/hex tools to adjust parts on your bike as you notice (seat seems low, handlebars seem high, x is loosening).
Chain breaker is always important.
Enough water and food. bonking running low on energy/carbs is bad.
>>2031629
I can afford 100 dollar tools AND reuse cable housings that are in decent shape
>>2031651
No your shit is loose. Go tighter on the top bolt before you clamp the stem on. If you run a carbon steerer figure it out yourself.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 17:46:14 No.2031655 Report

Quoted By: >>2031660 >>2031663

>>2031651
>>2031652
>>2031653
Woops, meant threaded headset.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 18:10:56 No.2031660 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031655
If it's a threaded headset with loose balls you generally have to do one adjustment after riding it a bit. Remember you are using the first ring to preload, and the second to lock it down. So if you don't have enough preload/grease leaks out then you have to tighten it again.
I find a little tighter is better then looser since loose and you get clunk,clunk feelings going over road bumps.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 18:57:53 No.2031663 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031655
is it a new bike? you can just tighten the adjustment.
if it's an old bike, especially a used bike, the play over the years can have fucked the bearings. but not necessarily.
you gotta open it up and check the bearings, races and grease. even if they're ok and just need a tighter adjustment, you should be prepared to clean and put fresh grease on every time you pull any bearing assembly apart.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Screenshot 2025-01-24 163323.png, 278KiB, 778x769

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 22:34:21 No.2031679 Report

Quoted By: >>2031680 >>2031685 >>2031698 >>2031812

Anyone have one of those bike trainers from Wahoo? I haven't ridden in months, I just got burned out, but now the urge to ride has come back. It's consistently below 32F outside and I aint tryin to ride in that shit, I've ridden in cold weather before and it's miserable even with the proper gear and I don't want to eat shit on ice. I was considering getting a trainer and maybe Zwift and seeing how it goes but that's a lot of money to drop on something to find out it's shit. Pic is probably the model I would get, with the mat. If I'm going to go the trainer route I'll go all in.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 22:48:43 No.2031680 Report

Quoted By: >>2031681

>>2031679
canyon owners need not apply

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 22:50:43 No.2031681 Report

Quoted By: >>2031695

>>2031680
wdym? I own an Aeroad.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1725122291788563.jpg, 132KiB, 800x422

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 23:24:08 No.2031685 Report

Quoted By: >>2031687 >>2032179

>>2031679
>burned out
try making it fun like connecting to to gta5. i know you can use mods like lspdf and act as a bicycle cop and its pretty fun, but if you actually stop that kinda impedes training, so you can just ride around the map too https://www.gtbikev.com/

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 23:28:20 No.2031687 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031685
>linking it to gta5
lmao, this is cool.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2025 23:36:00 No.2031689 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031652
>not him but are there even races on threadless? I thought everything was cartridge bearings.
nah mate shitloads of threadless headsets use cup and cone bearings

theres not really much difference between a threadless and threaded headset.
The bottom bit is identical.

And some threaded headsets are cartridge.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 00:34:42 No.2031693 Report

Quoted By: >>2031694 >>2031703

say you want to change your chain at .5% worn
would you change it when the first segment of 6 links is >.5% worn
or when the total chain length is >.5% longer/worn

like when I measure on my bike, some segments are fine, some are stretched.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 00:54:39 No.2031694 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031693
If some are stretched change it. That's why you check it in multiple places.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 01:09:00 No.2031695 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031681
https://www.google.com/search?q=canyon+turbo+trainers+void+warranty

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 02:02:55 No.2031698 Report

Quoted By: >>2031699 >>2031710

>>2031679

zwift + indoor trainer does best with people who can endure a lot more misery than riding outside in shit sub-freezing conditions because it's actually just a lot worse. I don't rec spending a lot of money on it as your first try. best option is to see how often and for how long long you can ride a shitty trainer at a fitness place. If you can go ride one of those for 45 mins, 3-5 times per week, for 6-8 months then you can benefit from a high quality zwift setup

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 02:19:00 No.2031699 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031698
nta but how is it worse? because it's tedious or there's a comfort issue?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 02:27:49 No.2031701 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031629
I once drilled a headset spacer out of wood and coloured it black with a marker because I didn't want to pay 11$ + shipping while I looked for a junkyard bike to strip extra spare parts off of

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 02:34:48 No.2031703 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031693
sometimes i reckon you should change it just to have a clean chain and sometimes situationally it makes sense to never change it

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 02:41:38 No.2031704 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031570
The ultraendurance touring world isn’t ready for my TT stance

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 02:43:44 No.2031705 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031653
>she didn’t buy the 100ft spools of housing when they were 70% off

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 03:53:58 No.2031710 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031698
>fitness place

I got into cycling specifically so I could be outdoors, exercise and not have to interact with people or have them look at me (I'm one ugly MF). Going to a "fitness place" to test shit out is an absolute resounding no. I'll drop the dosh on a nice set up and if I don't like it it'll sit in the closet then I'll throw it away when I move I really don't care, I absolutely refuse to interact with people if I don't have to. I already have a really nice road bike (Canyon Aeroad CF SL 8.0 DI2 Disc) and 1000s in cycling gear so I doubt it would be miserable. I hate the cold which is why I've been in the south for the past decade BUT work has brought me up north and you got me fucked up if you think I'm gonna go out in 30 below weather. I've biked a few times in that cold and it's fucking miserable (for me). I've also used in door stationary bikes and while they were shit I can imagine a dedicated trainer would be better. I plan to use Zwift on one of my PC monitors and put a fan on myself. I haven't bought anything yet but the urge to bike is hitting me strong even though I've been off the bike for a few months. I'm going to give it a few more days thought then decide what I want to do. I got taxes and a nice work bonus coming so I could easily have everything soon and it would get used every winter instead of losing all that fitness I worked so hard for (which is killing me more and more everyday) I guess I'll see what I want to do. I've been cycling for almost 10 years now and every 2 years or so I'll burn out, take a few months off and come back at it stronger than ever it just sucks now because I can't just hop on and go when it's 15F outside.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 04:24:16 No.2031711 Report

Quoted By: >>2031812

>>2031501
>i just dont want to get a puncture on my way to work, and there is nothing wrong with researching the countless testimonials, as well as inhouse data from sites like bicyclerollingresistance, on a tire's puncture resistance. do you have experience with vee tire? also i dont care if the ride is sluggish it's not why im interested in a touring bike

people on here hate them, but if you want good puncture resistance road bike tires, get gatorskins. i only use those and i have incredible puncture protection with them. sure i get the rare puncture, but my current gatorskin tires i installed january 1, 2023. im at over 6,000 miles on them in the two years since install and they still hold up. i would say i get a flat in them maybe every 1,000-1,500 miles

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 17:31:32 No.2031752 Report

Quoted By: >>2031753 >>2031758 >>2031763 >>2031798 >>2031861 >>2031863 >>2031908

How do you remove a bolt that has a ripped profile? Basically no tool can grab on it and solder wont stick. The damn thing made my gearing unusable. Also that bike will be sold anyways as it does not fit me. What sort of bike am i looking for as a 190cm tall man that does not want to bend my spine like a corner to grab the handlebars. The handlebars and the seat are at the same time and its uncomfortable. The seat is as high as possible and my legs still cannot do a full stroke.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 17:33:21 No.2031753 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031752
>The handlebars and the seat are at the same time
Same hight.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 18:06:40 No.2031758 Report

Quoted By: >>2031759

>>2031752
>Basically no tool can grab on it
there probably is some type of method and tool for this that most people have never heard of. I'd take the bike to an auto mechanic shop that gets lots of business and show it to them.
>190cm
you're my height. I buy used and both my frames are undersized, a 60cm and a 62 cm, but with them I can use a modern long seatpost to get it right. however, I prefer the handlebars dropped a bit from saddle height. the 62 I can get my fit with the stock stem, the 60 I had to shell out for a nitto technomic to get my fit.
there are vintage models that were made as large as 65cm. I believe 65 would be correct for us but I just bought the biggest I found at the time and made it work. kinda dumb but my fit is good after lots of work. when searching, look for pics with notably long headtubes and if the listing doesn't say ask the seller to measure and teach them how.
for new geometry frames, an XL frame ought to be right, I don't have experience there but I know they are made.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 18:12:42 No.2031759 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031758
>modern long seatpost
as in, any ordinary modern seatpost is much longer than the ones that came stock on my old bikes. I just bought cheap aluminum ones off ali.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 18:20:39 No.2031763 Report

Quoted By: >>2031769

>>2031752
What kind of bolt are you talking about? Can you make a cut with a saw and use a flat headed screwdriver to remove it? There’s always the option of drilling it out?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO file.png, 77KiB, 267x165

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 19:48:44 No.2031769 Report

Quoted By: >>2031836

Im considering just raising the handlebars. The bike is otherwise good, has hydraulic breaks and stuff. Other than the size the gearing sometimes does not engage and the paddles(picrel) go through with no resistance. If i can fix those two issues i think its the best bike i can currently have. Was too optimistic about the bike market here.

> I'd take the bike to an auto mechanic shop that gets lots of business and show it to them.
I think that's the only option i have. You could take apart the whole assembly and have a easier time getting it out of there, which is probably what a bike mechanic would do, but a properly equipped shop could probably get it out with little effort.

>>2031763
>What kind of bolt are you talking about?
A short M5 bolt that holds the shifting wire thing in place. It snapped on me and i had to replace it. Lost the original bolt and used another fitting one, that one broke.

>Can you make a cut with a saw and use a flat headed screwdriver to remove it?
Don't think so. The mechanism hides the bolt in a way where only a driver can get to it. Drilling it out is also unlikely as the mechanism is springy and bends around. It would only make it worse.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2025 23:30:48 No.2031798 Report

Quoted By: >>2031849

>>2031752
>How do you remove a bolt that has a ripped profile?
...torx?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 26 Jan 2025 02:04:26 No.2031812 Report

Quoted By: >>2031831

>>2031679
used trainers are super super cheap in many markets, particularly if you're going wheel-on. braked-flywheel spin bikes are often available free if you look, but storage is trickier.

>>2031711
gator hardshells are srsly just fine

>>2031441
holy fucking based. i'n surprised those seatstays held up to clamping. actually wtf even is that rack. I didn't think it was a tailfin but it looks like he's got it on the thru axle somehow?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 26 Jan 2025 08:01:36 No.2031831 Report

Quoted By: >>2031908

>>2031812
It’s an oldmanmountain rack and it is bolted to a special axle they sell with it, they’ve actually been doing the tailfin thing for slightly longer than tailfin has

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 26 Jan 2025 11:51:56 No.2031836 Report

Quoted By: >>2031849

>>2031769
Can you force a torx in there? Maybe epoxy it into place and wait a week for it to cure?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 26 Jan 2025 14:52:17 No.2031849 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031798
>>2031836
>torx
don't have any.

But i ordered some "metal welding" epoxy yesterday that should do the trick.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Screenshot 2025-01-26 181556.png, 2MiB, 1399x1047

Anonymous Sun 26 Jan 2025 16:16:21 No.2031853 Report

Quoted By: >>2031868

>ride like 100km on my mtb (my first bike)
>muddy so like half is on road
>already want a gravel bike
b-bros....

pic rel is a Ridley X-Bow Allroad and is under 300 euros

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 26 Jan 2025 18:42:36 No.2031861 Report

Quoted By: >>2031863 >>2032068

>>2031752

Try placing a bit of heat shrink, electrical tape, or some other soft semi-rubbery material between the driver bit and the bolt head. This should suffice for most stripped bolts that we run in to in cycling.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO stripped_screw-1-scaled.jpg.opti (...).jpg, 464KiB, 2560x1696

Anonymous Sun 26 Jan 2025 18:44:07 No.2031863 Report

Quoted By: >>2032068

>>2031752
>>2031861

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 26 Jan 2025 19:14:50 No.2031868 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031853
uhh thats a cycloross bike achtully

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 27 Jan 2025 00:02:05 No.2031890 Report

Quoted By: >>2031902

Is chicago bad for buying cool bikes or why am I only finding specialized stores and neighborhood commuter clunkers and ebike crap

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 27 Jan 2025 01:16:20 No.2031902 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031890
There got to be an indie dealer out in the burbs or wrigleyville. Search the orbea website and the pinarello website and the cervelo website to see who sells those brands.

They are high end and don't demand exclusivity from dealers. Any shop that carries one of those will be good.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 27 Jan 2025 01:40:00 No.2031908 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031752
ezi-out
https://www.totaltools.com.au/6816-sutton-no-1-no-6-screw-extractor-set-easy-out-6pc-m603s15a
>>2031831
nice
would very much like to take muh roadie out bikepacking but yeah tailfin prices are a no go from me dog

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 27 Jan 2025 10:38:22 No.2031922 Report

Quoted By: >>2031928 >>2032006

for 35mm tire

32mm external / 28mm internal rims
or
28mm external / 23mm internal rims?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 27 Jan 2025 12:49:54 No.2031928 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031922
the former

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO c4a.jpg, 14KiB, 238x192

Anonymous Mon 27 Jan 2025 23:23:02 No.2031958 Report

Quoted By: >>2031977 >>2031980 >>2031987 >>2032006

I'm trying to true my 26" rim brake wheels. While the rim seems to be getting true, the wheels don't seem to be spinning evenly. It's as if the tyre wasn't sitting on the bead evenly. Can that really be a thing and do I need to correct it?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 28 Jan 2025 06:22:45 No.2031977 Report

Quoted By: >>2031980

>>2031958
You should remove the tire so that you can adjust up and down trueness, it also makes the whole thing visually easier.

also yeah, bead not seating correctly on the hook of a rim is very common. It's because the tire is out of spec, or, the rim is damaged, or just bad install or just bad luck.

You can usually fix just by installing it again carefully. It's possible to muscle the bead onto the hook. If that doesn't work then get some hot water + dish soap and soap up the bead. Also inflating it above to / above the rec pressure can get it to pop on.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 28 Jan 2025 07:58:52 No.2031980 Report

Quoted By: >>2031991

>>2031958
>>2031977
I’ve had this recently with 700c vintage wheels. The wheel is true and the hubs spin great but I can’t get the tyres to sit right.

I replaced the rim trape and went round with a scalpel (thinking that would matter somehow), tried wired/folding and 23mm/25mm.

The only thing (in combination with the others) was using a 25-32mm inner tube, soapy water and not using a tyre lever. Now the variation is down to 2mm.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 28 Jan 2025 12:34:36 No.2031987 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031958
if the rim is true you're good. you can reseat the tire, but unless it's so crooked that it's affecting your riding experience i wouldn't bother.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 28 Jan 2025 13:56:24 No.2031991 Report

Quoted By: >>2031999

>>2031980
Why no tyre lever?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 28 Jan 2025 15:49:34 No.2031999 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031991
I’m using Mavic CXP30s with a 14mm inner so I’m on the limit with a 25mm tyre. It’s easier to keep the tube on the inside of the tyre if pushing by hand. A lever can sometimes pinch it.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO bike.jpg, 14KiB, 259x194

Anonymous Tue 28 Jan 2025 16:15:32 No.2032004 Report

Quoted By: >>2032005 >>2032006

hey guys, can you guys simplify the whole "bike geometry" as best as possible? I simply just don't understand it.
I bought my first bike (cheap china bike) and I enjoy it a bit so far. but I always feel like something is off/could be better with adjustment when I ride it
this is the bike

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 28 Jan 2025 16:50:38 No.2032005 Report

Quoted By: >>2032036

>>2032004
Helping someone you can't see, who doesn't know the words, through words alone, is not going to work very well. Try to do your best at getting used to new words and reading about bike stuff so that others can help you, because "off" doesn't mean anything actionable to anyone

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 28 Jan 2025 17:07:47 No.2032006 Report

Quoted By: >>2032036

>>2032004
Ride bike take note of geometry and purpose
ride more bikes and take not of geo+purpose
Decide what you want to try
ride more bike
Oh I like (x) geo and bike, then figure out if it's the geo, material, or something else.

Bullshitting about numbers without trying out the bikes won't get you anywhere. You need to experience it, and that should only be done when it makes sense.
So just ride your bike and don't worry about it. You can adjust things on the bike right now to see how that impacts your riding as well.
>>2031958
As others said remove the tire+tube, true wheel, ride, and see how it is.
Some vertical and side to side is NBD if it's not touching the frame anywhere.
>>2031922
28mm internal is the biggest I would go, and I would think towards larger tires in the future. A 23mm internal would probably be fine down to 28mm tire.
If you run high pressure smaller internals are fine, they just lead to a smaller overall diameter of said tire.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1680387547479876.png, 181KiB, 407x485

Anonymous Tue 28 Jan 2025 19:20:21 No.2032012 Report

Quoted By: >>2032015

why is it so hard to pedal standing up (not sitting on the seat)? its so awkard

am I missing something? am I retarded? mtb and 220lb

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 28 Jan 2025 19:25:07 No.2032015 Report

Quoted By: >>2032017

>>2032012
be 60kg and it'll be easier, also you probably just don't think you're balanced enough when 'swinging' the bike to pedal while standing, if you're climbing up a hill its just a matter of body weight in my opinion

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 28 Jan 2025 19:30:18 No.2032017 Report

Quoted By: >>2032019 >>2032026

>>2032015
I have ran quite a bit (probly have a 100 5k), and I dont get the physics, why does pedalling standing on straight ground it feel 3 times as hard as running uphill wtf

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 28 Jan 2025 19:42:34 No.2032019 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032017
my only other advice other than adding drop bars if you don't have them is to learn to maintain a cadence on lower gear and ramping, how I think of it is relaxing your leg on the upstroke and hitting the resistance wall on your downstroke

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 191078.jpg, 17KiB, 360x271

Anonymous Tue 28 Jan 2025 21:52:21 No.2032023 Report

Quoted By: >>2032360

any recommendations for bike computers that are basically just a secondary screen for your phone? i just want to be able to use my phone's navigation and such without putting the phone directly on the bike and safely keeping it in my pocket/bags instead. the only thing that seems to come close is the beeline velo 2, but it's a bit overpriced and gimmicky.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 28 Jan 2025 22:45:42 No.2032026 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032017
I am the same weight as you, but with a weightlifting and cycling background. I stand great on bikes with rigid front forks, and road tires. The key is I get a medium gear and "bounce" by using my calves. This is for a medium to easy slope/hill.
For a serious hill or one I can't shift into a lower gear I swing the bike side to side and "stomp" down using my hips and quads. I can get some decent pec,bicep, and lat activation this way but can't go long before my heart rate gets too high.

That's really the issue with heavier riders standing. Go too hard and your heart rate gets way too high. Go too easy on the gear and you aren't going anywhere.

As the other anon said you want no force/resistance on the upstroke and a big smash when going down.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 29 Jan 2025 08:51:00 No.2032036 Report

Quoted By: >>2032986

>>2032005
>>2032006
thanks for the advice. I went to the bike store to try out a few models. they don't allow test ride so I just sit and try to feel the bike. some bike despite having same material (alu 6061) and identical specs actually have a very drastic and different feeling in comparison to my bike? there's a bike 3x the price of my bike ($400) and not having much expensive components specified but it just feels super robust, super safe to sit on while my bike feels clumsy.

what factor can contribute to this feeling, bros?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO file.jpg, 55KiB, 1560x1040

Anonymous Wed 29 Jan 2025 12:52:03 No.2032045 Report

Quoted By: >>2032089 >>2032095

I actually found and bought a deerhead RD. Why are these things always scuffed up? How do I go about restoring the iconic logo (paint, prep, etc.)?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 676170a73b22a_jngdjkxg5e.jpg, 344KiB, 770x1144

Anonymous Wed 29 Jan 2025 13:00:49 No.2032047 Report

Quoted By: >>2032052 >>2032053 >>2032054 >>2032065 >>2032072

explain why the cables in the lower image are better without using slurs or insults

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 29 Jan 2025 13:34:13 No.2032052 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032047
More aero.
Also the cables can get used to alter the profile of the handlebars and making it more comfortable.
Oh and less chances to get caught up somewhere.
Looks cooler too

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 29 Jan 2025 13:53:13 No.2032053 Report

Quoted By: >>2032083

>>2032047
longer housing with more bends in it creates more friction. this affects the shifting, although with modern housing the friction is a lot less. but may as well optimize it.
the ones in your pic look like they could snag something pretty easily.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 29 Jan 2025 14:25:53 No.2032054 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032047
if you crash its less likely the sheath would get damaged

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 29 Jan 2025 17:48:42 No.2032065 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032047
they're orange!

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 29 Jan 2025 18:42:09 No.2032068 Report

Quoted By: >>2032070

>>2031861
>>2031863
i tried and it did not work.

same for epoxy. Gotta bite the bullet and drill the thing out. Lets hope the plastic assembly survives this.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 29 Jan 2025 18:56:07 No.2032070 Report

Quoted By: >>2032071

>>2032068
You could also try to cut in a slot with a dremel and use a flathead to screw it out.
You could damage the part around it but oh well.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 29 Jan 2025 18:58:57 No.2032071 Report

Quoted By: >>2032077

>>2032070
cutting a slot was already suggested. A dremel sounds like it would fit but i don't have one. The screw is in a plastic part and i would like to put as little stress on it as possible but im out of options and i have a better bike that i could use in backup. Just gotta fix that one too...

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 29 Jan 2025 19:21:21 No.2032072 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032047
The only inconvenience is if you want to run a bar bag which you don’t need 99% of the time.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 29 Jan 2025 20:45:09 No.2032077 Report

Quoted By: >>2032079

>>2032071
there are screw extractors
there is welding a little bolt to it
there is spraying shit on it and leaving it overnight

the fucking rubber band trick that was suggested, hahaha

if we are talking about a simple bolt, lets say 10mm
you just weld another 10mm bolt to the head of the other bolt
if its a head with internal hex, you could hammer the hex bit inside

seeing as you are extremely inept, I dont see how you will drill it out without damaging the thread

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 29 Jan 2025 20:53:56 No.2032079 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032077
and yeah, most hardware is an alloy to resist rust, so you must use specific solder...
if u gonna drill it out, make sure you are as center as possible, so you can tap it later if needed, but even if you fuck it, you can just go a size larger (from M10 to M12 for example) heliocoil n shit is also a thing

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO qer17sr07z0a1.jpg, 624KiB, 3024x4032

Anonymous Wed 29 Jan 2025 22:44:04 No.2032083 Report

Quoted By: >>2032088

>>2032053
i dont think the housing is much shorter its just under tape and the bends are tighter

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2025 00:15:18 No.2032088 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032083
eh, if you don't notice a performance difference then you can make your cables look like a mental patient set them up I guess. I'd still worry they'd flop around like that and it would be worth it to me that they looked nice. my microshift don't route under the bar tape, so with the housing just long enough to turn the bars I get the shortest routing that way. so, not all bent up under the tape, and but not all long and twisting every which way, either. your picture didn't show this middle ground option.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2025 00:15:25 No.2032089 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032045
They are ancient and came on offroad bikes... which get scratched up.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2025 00:36:36 No.2032095 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032045
actually post it man

i have one of those, they're pretty cool, i like the road stuff from that era too.
reality is though that slightly newer indexed stuff, like the XT II or tricolour mechs are common and work better and usually look better.

You're gonna want a pretty fancy (slack) vintage frame to put that on and a TA triple or something else fancy like that.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2025 04:38:19 No.2032153 Report

Quoted By: >>2032236

its 40° fahrenheit, windy as fuck and a little bit rainy outside
what the FUCK do i wear
i was looking around and the north face windbreaker jackets look good but theyre way too expensive
is there some cheaper shit i can buy?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2025 07:36:45 No.2032179 Report

Quoted By: >>2032185

>>2031685
>https://www.gtbikev.com/
I was already looking into a smart trainer but now I might be sold

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2025 07:37:46 No.2032180 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031441
nice semen wheels

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2025 08:09:38 No.2032185 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032179
i only got to ride one of these myself briefly but it was neat. https://youtu.be/Bl17P_mpHI0

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2025 10:52:09 No.2032204 Report

Quoted By: >>2032206 >>2032209 >>2032212 >>2032236 >>2032331 >>2032357

>running 23mm tires
>decide to go 25mm
>check at LBS if it has clearance
>it does
>install new continental 25mm tires
>1-1.5mm tire clearance on seat tube
Is this too close for comfort?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2025 11:17:58 No.2032206 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032204
no , tite gapz is based, you only need a playing card gap there

I would worry on carbon where rub damage can write off a frame

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2025 11:54:20 No.2032209 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032204
How flexy is your frame?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2025 12:02:27 No.2032212 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032204
So besides the obvious "what if it slices my seat tube open" (bigger risk if crabon), the other thing that tire rub can cause, which is more fun than a barrel of monkeys, is explosive blowouts when it overheats on you. It's more likely with sidewall rubbing on chainstays, because that's more likely to go unnnoticed but it can probably happen with seat tubes too.

I say do it, what's the worst that can happen? You die? Frames that meet modern expectations for quality of life are for buyfag freds. Also shit that works makes you weak or something and that's liberal or so I'm told.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2025 13:21:57 No.2032236 Report

Quoted By: >>2032539

>>2032153
anything water/windproof with pit zips will do. north face is not bad but you're paying for the logo.
>>2032204
no, if the wheel spins freely and doesn't rub anywhere you're fine. if the frame flexes so much it hits the tire you'll hear/feel it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2025 21:30:12 No.2032331 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032204
on the rear wheel I'm not concerned as much as the front - regardless if you're reading a tire with any tread at all (mixed surface/gravel type stuff) then there's actual potential to jam the wheel up with an embedded piece of debris (stone, branch). With slicks and road riding (which I have to assume is the case with 25mm) you'll be fine.

As the another anon was saying, if you have a frame that isn't extremely stiff and/or you pump out big watts on the climbs then there is a potential for chain stay rub. It happens to me on my alloy frame running 23mm gp5ks on climbs if the wheels are even a little bit out of true or aren't seated perfectly in the dropouts.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2025 23:09:18 No.2032357 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032204
As others said, just ride it. If you hear it when you stand you can make the choice whether you keep it or not.
I have run a similar clearance on the brakes and I got too much crap rubbing against it in wet weather rides, so I went smaller.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2025 23:34:18 No.2032360 Report

Quoted By: >>2032454 >>2032676

>>2032023
Smartwatch perhaps

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 31 Jan 2025 05:05:51 No.2032403 Report

Quoted By: >>2032405 >>2032422 >>2032731

>Shimano CUES drop bar groupset arrives
>costs $900

https://bikepacking.com/news/shimano-drop-bar-cues/

wtf?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20241022_200434.jpg, 4MiB, 4080x3060

Anonymous Fri 31 Jan 2025 05:10:46 No.2032405 Report

Quoted By: >>2032454

>>2032403
>600 for the brakes and shifters
>100 for the fuckHUEG cassette
This is why 1x is a meme
I see the 2x variant has the FD cost to offset the cheaper cassette.
Still. Hopefully shimano essa is like 600usd and 400 or so on ebay.

Doesn't matter to me either way, I will keep buying/riding used bikes for 100usd that just work.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 31 Jan 2025 09:32:05 No.2032422 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032403
U6000 is the deore/tiagra/grx400 equivalent
The 8/9-speed will be cheaper and prices will drop when OEMs start using it

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 31 Jan 2025 10:10:16 No.2032426 Report

Quoted By: >>2032427

I just bought an ATB which has a 126mm hub in the rear and my 2 other bikes have 135mm. Sheldon Brown mentions that 130mm was used on mountain bikes and I've seen some dude on YT cold setting his frame to 130. How common was 130mm hub spacing in the rear on mountain bikes?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 31 Jan 2025 10:19:27 No.2032427 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032426
reasonably common yeah, i've had a few deore LX hubs that are 130.

Going 126 to 130 you can usually just pull the frame open on wheel installs, you don't need to permanently bend it

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 31 Jan 2025 15:03:26 No.2032454 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032360
gay
>>2032405
that's for 11 speed, the 9 speed cues and 8 speed essa should be a lot cheaper, or at least come specced on cheap bikes

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 31 Jan 2025 16:12:39 No.2032468 Report

Quoted By: >>2032481

Occasionally smoking cigars will not impair my lungs for climbing right?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 31 Jan 2025 17:50:18 No.2032481 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032468
nicotine itself hardens your arteries and increases recovery time, it's not just the lungs you should be worried about when nicotine gets absorbed orally when smoking cigars

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2025 01:14:01 No.2032539 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032236
ended up buying a fleece jacket from columbia
no pit zips but i dont really care about sweating

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2025 06:53:28 No.2032596 Report

Quoted By: >>2032599 >>2032637 >>2032665 >>2032746

>30 year old out of shape boomer
>commuter with rear rack and fenders
>80% pavement 20% dirt/gravel
>70% flat 30% hills
>500 usd budget, ideally used
wtf kind of bike do I even want? flat bar hybrid? cheap gravel bike with drops?
I want something that can do everything rn even if it isn't ideal for it. I don't mind getting more specialized bikes later if I ever feel the need to.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2025 07:57:18 No.2032599 Report

Quoted By: >>2032739

>>2032596
Fellow millenial, look for a hybrid or rigid mountain bike.
Cheap gravel bikes aren't super common. You could look at an older CX bike, I have one and those are pretty awesome.
If you are okay with flat bars then a hybrid, or rigid mountain bike would do what you want as well.

It really depends on how much "offroading" we are talking. More serious it is the more you want flat bars, wide tires, and lower gears. Less serious and you can err towards a cx bike, or even a road bike.

Also, post your local used listings, height, and how out of shape you are(we talking like out of breath going up stairs?)
Since the biggest issue with going used is if you can wrench, and what size the bike is.

Oh, and I have heard okay things about walmart's ozark trail gravel bike. So don't forget about something like that too.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2025 15:20:54 No.2032637 Report

Quoted By: >>2032708 >>2032732 >>2032739

>>2032596
whatever you do, do NOT get anything with cable disc brakes. there's a ton of those on the market for cheap for a reason, they are shit. and don't listen to anyone saying oh but you haven't used GOOD cable dicks and you just suck at mechanics, you just need to do this absurdly complicated adjustment process every 200 miles and then you can have a brake that works almost as well as a badly adjusted cheap rim brake bike except with 10x the effort and 4x the cost

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2025 17:33:57 No.2032665 Report

Quoted By: >>2032666 >>2032667 >>2032739

>>2032596
you're basically describing my bike, except there's barely any flat here.
I spent just under $200 for a used lugged road bike with really nice steel in my size, then spent around $300 for VO fenders, rear rack, swept bar and levers, wheel stabilizer and smaller bcd crank and long cage deraill/ big freewheel to deal with all the hills. even on flats, the 80s bikes had fuckhuge 144bcd cranks for racing that nobody including racers use anymore.
then I bought a top of the line front rack for $120 that would put me overbudget for you but I haul $100 of groceries on it all the time so I needed the expensive weight rating.
I didn't change any one thing at first, it was all as I noticed things didn't work for me. had never used anything other than stock gears until this bike, but I understood they could go lower since I started with mtb. never changed anything on a drivetrain except chain before. since you're on mostly flats old stock gears may work.
an old rigid mtb could work fine I think. hybrid, too, but that term can also be a normie trap for shit bikes but there are good hybrids.
I don't think you can buy new with your budget. good bikes pretty much start around 7 or 6 on sale and racks and fenders are going to add over $100 but probably closer to 2.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Screenshot_20230120-210528__01.jpg, 357KiB, 947x720

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2025 17:35:30 No.2032666 Report

Quoted By: >>2032667 >>2032739

>>2032665
pic of bike

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2025 17:46:14 No.2032667 Report

Quoted By: >>2032739

>>2032666
>>2032665
shit forgot to mention if you go for old roadie you need one that has clearance for 32mm wide tires. you'll want that width on dirt and gravel trails. pic loves light offroad.
look for tourer road bikes, sport tourers, or in my bike's case, it's the second option in a product line of 5 options, the higer tier ones have sportier builds and narrow tire clearance. mine is more budget and has wide clearance.
the Japanese bikes from that era tended towards sport tourer style even if they don't say that in the catalog, which is how my bike was . if you can find OEM specs online, the stock tires are listed and you can usually go one size up (or more) which is also true of my bike.
an old rigid mtb will just werk but you're going to want to replace the knobbies with slick tires

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2025 20:01:00 No.2032675 Report

Quoted By: >>2032676 >>2032723

>go for a ride after work yesterday
>reach muddy section
>"fuck it, full send"
>pedal slips midway
>almost eat shit
>huge bruise on inner thigh and near knee

will buying one of those fancy pedals with bolts sticking out help? or is it just a skill issue (I dropped the pedals around 3 times that run)? I am cycling with cheap soccer shoes with wide and short spikes

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2025 20:20:26 No.2032676 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032360
not quite what i'm looking for, unless you mean using the face of the watch as a display, mounting it to the bike? issue is that only the expensive ones seem to support navigation.
>>2032675
>will buying one of those fancy pedals with bolts sticking out help?
as opposed to flat pedals without pins? absolutely. they're not that fancy or expensive either.
>>2032675
>cycling with cheap soccer(sic) shoes with wide and short spikes
the nubs on football shoes are for grip in dirt and mud, they will have terrible grip on pedals. wear normal shoes for cycling.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Capture.jpg, 10KiB, 386x417

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2025 20:50:00 No.2032680 Report

Quoted By: >>2032723 >>2032731

so I'm looking for a simple 2x front setup but I'm going to run 44/38 instead of 42/34 anyone know if it's going to work?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2025 23:35:41 No.2032708 Report

Quoted By: >>2032718

>>2032637
microshift rent free lmao

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 00:58:31 No.2032718 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032708
I don't know what that means, sorry. what does microshit have to do with my post and what is the rent free part

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 02:10:37 No.2032723 Report

Quoted By: >>2032740

>>2032680
I don't "know", but it should work.
With a shorter ratio/difference like that you want a more old school front derailleur where it has a more smooth chain guide.
Generally front derailleurs are adaptable as long as you get the pull ratio right, and elevation.
>>2032675
It's worth it. Even just in the rain it's nice, but especially in mud or wet off roading.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 02:36:09 No.2032727 Report

Quoted By: >>2032730 >>2032731 >>2032733

Can you pair a 9 speed shifter with an 8 speed/friction rear derailleur as long as you stay within its capacity?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 03:14:52 No.2032730 Report

Quoted By: >>2032734

>>2032727
As long as the shifter pull matches the derailleur and speed count.
You can easily run whatever derailleur and whatever cassette/freewheel if it's friction, but once you go to indexed shifting you need a somewhat correct pull for all 3.
Otherwise you get sections of the cassette/freewheel that aren't aligned right and it ticks/jumps.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Shimano Cuck.png, 41KiB, 598x193

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 03:18:48 No.2032731 Report

Quoted By: >>2032734 >>2032740

>>2032680
You could make this work in a friction shifting setup if you didn't mind the jump to the larger ring being slow, but if you want indexing to work you need to stick with the range specified.

>>2032727
no, the gap between cogs is different between 8 and 9 speed cassettes, so you won't be able to index this

>>2032403
That's just the list price. Everyone knows the discounters will sell it for less. And Shimano can't set the price too low, or it will cheapen the perceived value of the bikes the new parts come on.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 03:20:42 No.2032732 Report

Quoted By: >>2032768

>>2032637
retard alert. get BB7s, TRPs, or if you want to be fancy, some Pauls or Growtacs. if you can't get any of those brakes to work better than a nice rim brake, you're an idiot.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 03:50:52 No.2032733 Report

Quoted By: >>2032734

>>2032727
there might be a hack to get it to work indexed, something to do with cable routing at the derailleur - i remember reading about that on the sheldon brown site.

friction shifting is obviously no problem at all, but you're mentioning a 9 speed shifter so you might not have that option (?)

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 03:56:52 No.2032734 Report

Quoted By: >>2032789

>>2032730
>>2032731
>>2032733
I see. I was thinking of getting the jtek shiftmate to solve the cable pull ratio problem but I don't want the extra 1 dead shift from the shifter. I was thinking of just mixing 9 speed cassette + 8 speed RD + 9 speed shifter.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 07:33:26 No.2032739 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032599
thanks I think you're right to look for an old cx or endurance bike or something. I kind of wanted drops so mtbs are out of the question since conversions apparently aren't worth it and alt bars are just an extra expense.
I don't really mean any serious dedicated offroading, mostly just quick cuts through he powerlines/woods since there's a lot of those here.
I'd kill myself before I let another man fix my bike desu.

>>2032637
I'll keep it in mind.

>>2032665
>>2032666
>>2032667
nice that's more or less what I'm going for. I'm hoping to find something that can fit 35-40mm tires with permanent fenders (I live in the pnw)

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 07:46:16 No.2032740 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032723
>>2032731
yeah it is a friction shift setup otherwise I wouldn't bother with this odd combination

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_4871.jpg, 213KiB, 960x720

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 09:31:41 No.2032746 Report

Quoted By: >>2032791

>>2032596
You could probably find a decent hardtail for that money don't listen to the retrogrouch crabs trying to keep you in the bucket

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 13:04:45 No.2032767 Report

Quoted By: >>2032772 >>2032780 >>2032784 >>2032792 >>2032798

any advice on choosing which handlebars to use to switch from gravel to road ones? I barely use the drops on the bike and they're too wide for me

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 13:16:29 No.2032768 Report

Quoted By: >>2032823

>>2032732
see
>don't listen to anyone saying oh but you haven't used GOOD cable dicks and you just suck at mechanics, you just need to do this absurdly complicated adjustment process every 200 miles and then you can have a brake that works almost as well as a badly adjusted cheap rim brake bike except with 10x the effort and 4x the cost
unironically rec'd klampers lol

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 13:27:16 No.2032772 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032767
whatever you want. Measure your shoulders properly, or just get a normal size.
I can happily run 38cm up to 44cm+.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 16:02:45 No.2032780 Report

Quoted By: >>2032784 >>2032908

>>2032767
generally road bars are wider and deeper than gravel, if you're already not using the drops on gravel bars going to road is just going to make it worse

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 17:25:49 No.2032784 Report

Quoted By: >>2032788

>>2032780
You're half right that "gravel" bars usually have shallower drops, but they're often wider and feature more flair. Just like with bars on a mountain bike, more width means more stability when riding technical terrain.

>>2032767
Previous anon who mentioned matching your shoulder width was on the right track. Pull a tape measure between your hands and see what the length comes to when your arms are parallel, that's the width you'll find most comfortable. Go narrower than that if you want to get more aero on the bike. Only other thing I'd add is to look for bars that are described as "compact" since that's the term usually applied to bars with less drop.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 17:39:06 No.2032788 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032784
yeah but the flare makes them wider in the drops, at the hoods the road bar will be wider than the gravel bar because the drops are at the same width

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 17:41:36 No.2032789 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032734
you should be able to eliminate the dead shift by screwing down one of the limit screws one full cog-worth. just take out the outer small cog or the inner large cog, whichever you use less.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 17:54:43 No.2032791 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032746
I told him a rigid mtb would just werk. if he wants to eat the weight penalty for a sus fork he'll never use, particularly if he can lock out the sus, then that's fine, too.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 18:00:42 No.2032792 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032767
se
use your shoulder width as a guide for bar width, although I like a bit thinner.
you might try raising the stem so the drop is more comfortable and then just use it in high wind or top gear downhills. but if not, there's bullhorns, mustache, butterfly, trekking, and northroads/swept back bars, you just gotta try stuff

u

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO images.png, 9KiB, 225x225

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 18:50:06 No.2032798 Report

Quoted By: >>2032908

>>2032767
>I barely use the drops on the bike
riser stem

put them way up

if you have the levers tilted too far up and can't really reach them in the drops, correct that. I like to lay a piece of wood along the flats of the drops and butt the ends of the levers against it. Then you can tilt the bars up between horizontal and pointed at the rear brake bridge.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 19:44:53 No.2032806 Report

Quoted By:

anyone who thinks they need more than the walmart special ozark is delusional.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 22:25:39 No.2032823 Report

Quoted By: >>2032824 >>2032829

>>2032768
have you actually worked on any of these brakes, or are you just another online bike mechanic?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 22:45:24 No.2032824 Report

Quoted By: >>2032829

>>2032823
Not that anon but I have used spyres and bb7s and while not as good as hydraulic brakes in performance they were very easy to adjust

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2025 23:54:28 No.2032829 Report

Quoted By: >>2032832

>>2032823
>are you actually an expert at bike adjustments though? I, an expert, have not had any problems therefore it's fine
thank you for making my argument for me, but no, I've only worked with spyres, bb5s, hy/rds, and some generic no-name mech dicks. some of them sucked less than others but they pretty much all sucked. and no, I am not an expert. I am an above-average enthusiast trying to save other people from unnecessary suffering and wasted money

>>2032824
they're neither as good as hydraulics nor as good as rim brakes, they were invented to sell drop bar disc brake bikes at a lower price point. which is why klampers are hilarious in a way

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 00:21:34 No.2032832 Report

Quoted By: >>2032834

>>2032829
>I've only worked with spyres, bb5s, hy/rds, and some generic no-name mech dicks
then stop talking nonsense about things you know nothing about.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 00:25:41 No.2032834 Report

Quoted By: >>2032837

>>2032832
and once again, you're making my argument for me, you're so preoccupied with showing off what an amazing mechanic you are that you've lost sight of the issue which is that mech dicks are the worst of all worlds and the only defense you have is "but they're fine if you're a seasoned expert like me"

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO klamper.png, 1MiB, 1064x710

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 00:30:50 No.2032836 Report

Quoted By: >>2032842

look at this shit, flat bar levers, the easiest thing humanly possible, require weird hacks just to work at a minimally acceptable level, and these are the best mech dicks money can buy, you could literally buy a reasonably good bicycle, brand new, from a name brand, for what a pair of these brakes costs. now imagine what a headache more pedestrian cable dick brakes cost

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 00:44:17 No.2032837 Report

Quoted By: >>2032838

>>2032834
are you fucking retarded? i've never claimed to be an expert, only to at least worked on them before forming an opinion. you don't need to be an expert to know and understand how to set up brakes properly, but you do need to at least have some hand-on experience.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 01:07:29 No.2032838 Report

Quoted By: >>2032842

>>2032837
oh my bad for only having set up and worked with 4 different models, maybe the anon looking for bike advice should work for a bike shop for at least a year before making a decision, I forgot this stuff is for experts only

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 01:14:07 No.2032842 Report

Quoted By: >>2032843

>>2032838
>I forgot this stuff is for experts only
why the fuck do you keep saying this? it's not that hard to understand that it's stupid to generalize when you've only worked on 4 shitty brake models

>>2032836
what?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 01:16:54 No.2032843 Report

Quoted By: >>2032845

>>2032842
you still haven't come up with a rational defense of cable dicks that isn't dick waving about what a great mechanic you are, what a silly hill to die on considering the industry has moved on and cable dicks are not found outside of a few $700 MSRP gravel bikes that should be set up with cantis except that people like you keep telling newcomers that there's nothing wrong with those pieces of shit

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 01:29:11 No.2032845 Report

Quoted By: >>2032847

>>2032843
i never said i was a great mechanic, you fucking moron. there are many cable actuated disc brakes that are complete trash. i even mentioned that the models you mentioned are shitty. i just doubted that you've ridden well set-up, good mechanical disc brakes. it has nothing to do with my or your mechanical abilities.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO you.png, 41KiB, 1012x136

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 01:36:14 No.2032847 Report

Quoted By: >>2032849

>>2032845
is this not you? you do understand TRP is the company that makes spyres and hy/rds, right? well now you know mr know it all bike expert

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 01:40:52 No.2032848 Report

Quoted By:

>try to hammer out bb30 bearings using official Park Headset Removal tool
>non-drive side is fine
>driveside gets stuck at an angle
now worried I doinked up my crabon frame. pray for me bros.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 01:43:36 No.2032849 Report

Quoted By: >>2032851

>>2032847
wow, i said "TRPs" instead of naming the specific model because i couldn't remember it. i still think the Spyres and hy/rds are shit, you fucking pedant.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 02:04:17 No.2032851 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032849
ok because it sure looked like you were saying they were good. besides paul, in your expert opinion, what are some examples of these "good cable disc brakes" that I'm too much of a casual to know about?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO PXL_20250203_042239473.jpg, 215KiB, 1278x719

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 07:22:03 No.2032896 Report

Quoted By: >>2032897 >>2032900

I used to be big into cycling about 100lbs ago, I havent touched my bike in like 2 years but I want to and need to do some cardio, im aiming for just 30 minutes of zone 2 a day, but after setting this all up everything fucking hurts, my feet hurt(they always sorta have) and my ass hurts so bad.
what do you guys recommend? Id go for a brisk walk outside instead but its winter and im in canada

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_0738.jpg, 4MiB, 3264x2448

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 07:29:15 No.2032897 Report

Quoted By: >>2032900

>>2032896
still got this pic after all these years, looking at it I now remember how tasty electrolyte drink mix was on a long ride

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 08:01:42 No.2032899 Report

Quoted By:

Hi. I want to use my old mtb wheels on my gravel bike (i busted a wheel so I need new ones). The grablel takes 12x100 mm to the front but the mtb front wheel I have is 15x100. Can I just slap in some reducer or is there something I didn't get? Major bike shops don't seem to sell 15 mm to 12 mm adapters and I wonder if it's for some technical reason or just to sell more new wheelsets.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 08:15:32 No.2032900 Report

Quoted By: >>2032901 >>2032902

>>2032896
>>2032897
Thats a really sporty fit anon.
After years of not cycling and putting on weight its pretty strainous for the body to adapt to such a position again.
I'd say get a cheap mtb with a relaxed fit for your trainer and go from there. Get spd pedals and ditch the sl's for now and get some comfy touring shoes. I think for around 500 bucks you could get a decent setup to start again.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 08:21:50 No.2032901 Report

Quoted By: >>2032904 >>2032905

>>2032900
this is purely for some basic cardio, im not really ''getting into it again'' I dont want to spend money unless I have to, Im thinking I just pop back on some flat pedals and use my running shoes and get a more cushy saddle off amazon or my local decathlon for a few bucks,my padded shorts of coarse dont fit me anymore, If anything il just cycle upright while doom scrolling or something
Im just doing this because Wikipedia says 30 minutes of zone 2 cardio alone will greatly increase your quality of life

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 08:24:35 No.2032902 Report

Quoted By: >>2032904

>>2032900
do note as I didnt mention it, I was hoping you would infer from my image but il only be using the bike indoors, so not much point in getting a brand new one

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 09:02:19 No.2032904 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032901
>>2032902
Yeah i did get what you meant and thought that if you really wanted to do this regularly then you should maybe get something else than a roadbike with an agressive fit. You could also just get a riser stem to get the bars a bit up and maybe back and a comfier saddle/flatpedals how you mentioned as a low budget improvement.
Also try out to wrap an extra layer of bartape ontop of yours for a more comfier experience.
Also if you're really commited you could even build a rocker plate for like 50-100 bucks with some wood to make it a bit cooler.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 09:09:21 No.2032905 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032901
While 30 minutes of zone 2 really will greatly increase your quality of life, you're better off swimming instead if quality of life from fitness is what you desire. It doesn't make realistic sense to exercise using one of the most efficient mechanical devices made by humans. I agree with other anon regarding the aggressive fit but you don't have to be a consoomer to find fitness, however, you have to put some effort given your current state of fitness before you can find yourself comfortably riding an aggressive bike again

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 09:29:34 No.2032907 Report

Quoted By: >>2032987 >>2032989 >>2033007

surely ELITEWHEELS is trustworthly chinese brand and wont explode while im going downhill 60kmh?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2025 10:10:07 No.2032908 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032798
>>2032780
Well, I was using them a lot when they were tilted so that the bar ends were perpendicular. However, after a minor crash which made me rethink that setup. That’s why I wanted to switch the bars. Of course, I use them for downhill, but I also want to use them on flat terrain for endurance rides.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 09:46:42 No.2032985 Report

Quoted By: >>2032987

Can I put a mountain bike seatpost on a fixed gear bike with track geometry?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 09:51:41 No.2032986 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032036
bike geometry, tubing thicknesses and butting, grass is always greener on the other side

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 10:06:26 No.2032987 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032985
Yes just make sure it's the right diameter/size.
>>2032907
your call, brother.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 10:51:02 No.2032989 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032907
if you don't trust it don't ride it. whatever marginal gain in speed carbon rims and a lighter wallet might give you, you offset by riding with more confidence.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 13:53:11 No.2032999 Report

Quoted By: >>2033008

So let's say hypothetically that I'm not really experienced but I decided to take an old bicycle apart to strip the paint and rust and old grease
And that in my hubris and lack of experience I did not document the process and mixed all the screws
In what order would you build it back together? I have all the pieces in front of me and it's intimidating

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 14:57:30 No.2033007 Report

Quoted By:

>>2032907
There's pretty reputable lots of pros use them zipps and enves blow up too

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 15:46:01 No.2033008 Report

Quoted By: >>2033169

>>2032999
What screws?? Post pic of your disaster

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 187528209.jpg, 124KiB, 635x539

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 15:53:54 No.2033009 Report

Quoted By: >>2033021

sisters im finna drive 5 miles to bring home pic rel. the gentlemen claims to have not used it much due to domestic issues with a person of opposite sex with whom he had no doubt sexual relations in essence i.e a woman. it also has several superficial not really technical replacements, such as grips, saddle and pedal replacements. he's been in the process of chucking it for eighteen years. what should i be on guard against in terms of major issues or potential hidden flaws?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 17:01:51 No.2033012 Report

Quoted By: >>2033013 >>2033022 >>2033023

hey bros. are there any chinese brands or models you guys can recommend? I want a solid bike but I'm from vietnam and really poor so I can't afford anything from well known names even when buying used.

currently I'm committed to using bicycle as my primary way to commute. I can afford $500 max. can try to adapt to MTB/road or any kind of bikes as long as the quality is good. I trust you guys more than the local sellers. one of them even shooed me out for saying I want a bike around $300

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 17:10:31 No.2033013 Report

Quoted By: >>2033015 >>2033086

>>2033012
is vietnam already so fucked up by rapacious capitalism that there are no utility bikes around for $500?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 17:16:51 No.2033015 Report

Quoted By: >>2033017 >>2033022

>>2033013
there are so many no name/whatever name bikes around or below $500 but I pretty much know nothing about bike components and growing up I had a cheap bike that I hated alot and it always had some issues here and there

I want a solid bike that I can trust, feel safe, good value and last really long. I asked local communities they kinda say I should save another $500-1000 then buy but I can't afford or justify that much.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 17:23:07 No.2033017 Report

Quoted By:

>>2033015
forgot to say the bike should be able to go up to 30-40km/h or more speed with moderate-high effort on flat roads.

I know it depends greatly on the person riding it too but I'm willing to train in fact I already do but my current old bike just CANT go past like 20km/h and it frustrates me alot since I need to go fast sometimes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 17:56:01 No.2033021 Report

Quoted By: >>2033029

>>2033009
>eighteen years
if it hasn't been ridden for 18 years straight, all the grease in the bearings has dried up and is not the correct consistency of snot but has turned into boogers, which no longer lubricates the bearings. you may have a complete bearing overhaul in your future. if it was ridden intermittently, it may be ok.
I bought a bike like that which was never ridden enough to wear out the factory grease in the shifters which had ossified and prevented the shifter from moving, had to take them off the bar, take covers off, work penetrant through everything while moving the levers for 5 or ten minutes per.
other than that, looks like it was indoors and not rained on so that's protected the drivetrain and cables so that's good. I don't know if those brakes are hydro or cable. sometimes hydros need the fluid bled but I don't know if inactivity does that or what. but if they're spongy feeling or anything other than rock solid then yeah.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 17:58:18 No.2033022 Report

Quoted By:

>>2033012
>>2033015
poor, southeast asian, and you need a reliable bike with good value and decent performance?
Fixed gear bicicleta

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 18:03:54 No.2033023 Report

Quoted By:

>>2033012
is there any kind of used market there? is it mountainous or flat there?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 19:57:19 No.2033029 Report

Quoted By:

>>2033021
oh no i was exaggerating with the amount of time listed. it has been looking for an owner for almost two years. the brakes are hydro, yeah. i appreciate the advice.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1710498815655377.jpg, 896KiB, 635x1966

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 20:12:31 No.2033031 Report

Quoted By: >>2033032 >>2033047

Anons... hate, let me tell you about hate
If the word "hate" was repeatedly seared into the foreheads of every niggerfaggot SRAMfuck for every revolution of a bicycle crankset on this fine planet for 20 years in 2 hours it would not equal 1/34th of the amount of HATE I feel for SRAM in this heartbeat.

Okay, now that that is out of the system:
TOPIC:
bottom bracket replacement
DETAILS:
SRAM GX1000 crankset
73mm BSA bottom bracket
ISSUE:
after installing new bearings
(https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005002320980907.html)
there is play side to side in the bottom bracket
I threw "correctness" to the wind since I need this bike tomorrow and simply did two incorrect things
1) add a spacer each under the bearing cups of drive side and nds
2)IT STILL FUCKING HAD SIDE TO SIDE PLAY, OVER 2.5mm SO I PUT THESE COPPER PLATED MAC-GYVER ATROCITIES IN TOO JUST SO THAT I CAN USE THE DAMN THING AND THE CRANK IS STILL FUCKING JIGGLING HATE HATE HATE HATE HATE

I suspect that even when everything "fits" and the parts are "right" though, that a design where the shaft rides on plastic will always wiggle
But we are talking about easily visible wiggle here
I will have to drive sitting and pedal carefully and slowly

Should I just order a shimano crankset?
Their design isn't as asinine
I probably should just go back to square taper
That shit at least works
What do you guys do?
This while situation is really fucking pathetic

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 20:22:03 No.2033032 Report

Quoted By: >>2033037 >>2033046

>>2033031
>buy aliexpress bb
>blame sram
that bb says it's for sram GXP, but ... is it?

Sram is 24mm on one side and 22mm on the other of the spindle whereas Shimano is just 24mm on both sides.

That bb seems to say that it is actually Shimano. Is it 22mm on one side? Doesn't say that anywhere.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 21:17:28 No.2033037 Report

Quoted By: >>2033065

>>2033032
>>That bb seems to say that it is actually Shimano. Is it 22mm on one side? Doesn't say that anywhere.
I measured and the NDS dia. is indeed narrower than the DS dia.
But the problem I am having is literally-literally orthagonal to that:
The primary problem is that there is lateral play
The co-axial distance between the DS and NDS bearings when installed in the BB is too narrow apparently
It's slightly less worse when I go hogwild by adding spacers on both sides
This is a 73mm bb and wisdom has it using a SRAM mtb crankset I shouldn't be installing a single spacer
It's apparently more a suggestions
I think I'll be haunting a nearby bike shop and give him a 10$ to steal a few BB spacers just so my money isn't completely lost on this shit

Interestingly the SPANK SPIKE pedals I had were a total letdown too
The nuts holding the outboard smaller bearings apparently loosened and now the damage is irreparable
120$ down the drain and I didn't even use those shits an entire year
Fuck your incompetent design with an unsecured bearing retention, SPANK
Shimano has been doing this better on their hubs for over 50 years now, it's a known engineering issue

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20250204_155644.jpg, 806KiB, 4080x3060

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 21:17:38 No.2033038 Report

Quoted By: >>2033040 >>2033065

Anyone know what kind of cable stop would fit these? The notch up top gets in the way so standard Shimano ones don't fit, and the screw it comes with is too big for the hole

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1709786725681575.jpg, 69KiB, 640x480

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 21:26:45 No.2033040 Report

Quoted By: >>2033065

>>2033038
My my my, have I got the exact right thing for you:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mm1m4B42vqw

What you have is apparently a "proprietary" shifter boss
The search term is "proprietary type shifter boss"
You can modify normal cable stops to fit or buy something for 20-35$
This dude shows the modification process, you basically just file a wide enough notch on the corresponding edge of the left and right cable stop
https://simplicityvintagecycles.com/2012/04/09/the-kodiak-saga-continues/

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 21:32:23 No.2033042 Report

Quoted By:

>off-season ending
>bib shorts become too tight without reason
Anyone else dealing with this phenomenon? I am losing a fortune getting new bib shorts every spring.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 22:21:16 No.2033046 Report

Quoted By: >>2033058

>>2033032
I think I know what I'll do: I'll just add more spacers until it actually fits
Seeing how even the OEM install used a spacer (in spite of the manuals saying "no spacers" for 73mm + mtb crankset on GXP) this is my -ridiculous -way forward
I blame sram not because of the BB not fitting but because of the ridiculousness of the design in the first place
Only reason they made it the way it is is because these hacks were beaten by shimano w.r.t. making a contiguous through-axle with outboard cup-seated bearings on a BSA bracket

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 22:26:25 No.2033047 Report

Quoted By: >>2033048 >>2033049

>>2033031
A genuine SRAM bb is like $30 you went through all that to save $15?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 22:29:11 No.2033048 Report

Quoted By: >>2033049

>>2033047
Nah, I just genuinely believed this BB is okay because it had the right diameters
I didn't think they'd be varying in width if it's for GXP
I do hate the stepped design that SRAM uses but that's another topic
Just have to make it work now

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 22:30:13 No.2033049 Report

Quoted By:

>>2033047
>>2033048
Honestly considering putting on square taper at this point because to hell with this shit, it just breaks in winter either way

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO bbspacers.png, 21KiB, 838x555

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 22:46:19 No.2033058 Report

Quoted By: >>2033059

>>2033046
could you have the chingachonga design where you are meant to put big spacers between the frame and bb, and small spacers onto the crank? and presumably they failed to package the big spacers?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 22:49:37 No.2033059 Report

Quoted By:

>>2033058
There was a single big spacer
Small spacers weren't even part of the OEM installation
Your picrel is probably how I'll do it
Man, using anything but simple MTBs is just a pain in the ass, perhaps it's time for me to finally just drop my infatuation with bikes and see it as a necessity I sometimes maintain, then using square taper won't hurt as much.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2025 23:13:02 No.2033065 Report

Quoted By: >>2033087

>>2033037
That sucks anon, but that's the way with bike wrenching. Some things are overpriced and suck, others have gay standards that don't always work and get to cope with.

>>2033038
>>2033040
cursed.
About as bad as the 2 different types of top mount friction shifter types. Found that out recently too.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 02:42:57 No.2033086 Report

Quoted By:

>>2033013
>Le capitalism boogie man.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 02:47:13 No.2033087 Report

Quoted By:

>>2033065
Yeah it sucks but not overly hard to fix, I suppose

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 07:59:59 No.2033105 Report

Quoted By: >>2033106 >>2033121 >>2033167

any tips on buying a cheapo saddle? or am i over thinking it?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Screenshot 2025-02-05 025932.png, 388KiB, 977x788

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 08:01:01 No.2033106 Report

Quoted By: >>2033107 >>2033111

>>2033105
I always forget my image

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 08:04:21 No.2033107 Report

Quoted By:

>>2033106
I would get a wtb rocket 5 off ebay, or any nice saddle off ebay that looks okay

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 08:43:05 No.2033111 Report

Quoted By: >>2033112

>>2033106
50 bucks for chinese saddle is pretty expensive

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 08:57:13 No.2033112 Report

Quoted By: >>2033113

>>2033111
its 50 CAD, so like 10 USD

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 09:34:41 No.2033113 Report

Quoted By: >>2033114

>>2033112
That's not bad. I just know it's hard to tell if a bike saddle will fit...... you well unless it's ordered

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 09:37:34 No.2033114 Report

Quoted By: >>2033122

>>2033113
that was a joke 50 cad is 35 USD, amazon has one of the most forgiving return policies anyway

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO ryet.png, 402KiB, 1340x559

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 11:42:29 No.2033121 Report

Quoted By: >>2033134

>>2033105
the highest china tech in thta price range is a 3d printed saddle with carbon rails. i have this one, the biggest problem is rolling the dice on fit

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 13:00:22 No.2033122 Report

Quoted By:

>>2033114
yeah, just put some tube on the rails when testing it so there won't be any scratches

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO image1-ezgif.com-webp-to-jpg-con (...).jpg, 3MiB, 4032x3024

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 13:08:47 No.2033123 Report

Quoted By: >>2033128 >>2033130

thoughts on a trek domane AL3 gen 1 (2020) for 300 euros as my first road bike?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 14:58:54 No.2033128 Report

Quoted By:

>>2033123
lgtm

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 15:30:42 No.2033130 Report

Quoted By:

>>2033123
check the serial number

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 15:47:38 No.2033134 Report

Quoted By: >>2033166

>>2033121
I have one of those.
The quality is honestly not bad but it is kinda small so i put it on my fixed gear for short rides.
But whatever you dont really loose money if it sucks at that pricepoint

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 18:36:18 No.2033166 Report

Quoted By:

>>2033134
post fixie

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_20240524_191816.jpg, 3MiB, 4160x3120

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 18:39:28 No.2033167 Report

Quoted By:

>>2033105
measure your sit bones and apply your riding style but this chart is for a particular brand, and everyone is different. you still have to try different saddles. >>2031498
I got a full carbon clone of spesh toque for $20 on ali but I had to pad the seat and also the sides cut into my butt flaps so I had to pad those but now it's awesome. I could have bought a saddle pad but I didn't want to cover up the cutout because of looks so I used foam and contact cement.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_20250205_195104.jpg, 3MiB, 3072x4080

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 18:53:22 No.2033169 Report

Quoted By: >>2033171

>>2033008
>screws
Bolts, sorry, I call everything that's screwed a screw
I started sorting them by types but I can't remember where everything goes

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 18:59:04 No.2033171 Report

Quoted By: >>2033191

>>2033169
did you take your derailleurs apart or what? thats the only part I know of that has a spring in it.
lotsa luck with that

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 20:15:50 No.2033181 Report

Quoted By: >>2033185

Why does it feel less enjoyable and not as easy to ride an indoor training bike compared to actually riding a bike?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Screenshot 2025-02-05 at 14-40-4 (...).png, 569KiB, 819x600

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 21:41:56 No.2033184 Report

Quoted By:

>>2031441
whats the best cross country route for someone that wants to ride flat roads and drink heavily in every town along the way?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2025 22:03:06 No.2033185 Report

Quoted By:

>>2033181
No cooling wind, no out door air, no scenic road/terrain. Many more reasons as well

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 06 Feb 2025 00:27:28 No.2033191 Report

Quoted By:

>>2033171
prolly the brakes dude

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