>>2841031My preparation for this route consisted of reading all the comments on mountainproject and taking a brief look at the topo. My impressions from the comment section were:
- this route is either not worth doing or is an absolute classic
- the downclimb from the summit block is either a trivial solo or very dangerous and necessitates a down-lead
- the descent trail is either well-trodden and requires no rappels or is a labyrinthian maze full of high-consequence scrambling and multiple rappels
- the route can either be done before noon or takes 13 hours car to car
I've been reading the last couple Accidents in North American Climbing publications and so I was careful to assume the worst. My dad and I woke at 4:45am and were in the car by 5, with the intent to reach the trailhead at dawn.