This dream is probably never gonna get off the ground but alright.
I did some touring for a few weeks last year. Here are some thoughts.
Get a U-lock and probably also a wire to thread through your wheels. Kryptonite sells a set. Always secure the frame to a pole of some kind with the U-lock.
Look up the wheel size standard of your destination. We got lucky and didn't get a lot of flats or the 27 inch standard in Japan might have fucked us. Bring two extra tubes and a puncture repair kit. Do testruns at home fully loaded and don't overestimate yourself if you are gonna set a daily distance goal. For world touring, many recommend steel frames and racks for weldability. I'd bet an aluminium frame would suffice but steel racks have no real downsides (except a few grams of weight and rust but before that's an issue, mexicans will already have killed you for your gear). Steel is also cheaper than aluminium. Tubus is a popular choice and I really like my Tubus racks.
When purchasing a bike you'll probably want a touring bike. Cross and road look cooler but the gearing is optimized for touring on a touring bike and they're more equipped with things like eyelets on the fork and screwholes for the rear rack in the back. I got fairly lucky with that when buying my entrylevel Rose cyclocross though had to manufacture steel plates to attach my front rack to and stuck them on the front axle. If getting discbrakes, which are basically superior as fuck, especially when wet, look at the placement of the brake caliper. If it's on the top of the seatstay it could be in the way when mounting the rear rack. Fucking that up and having to add a bunch of spacers makes for a weakpoint because leverage. Use Loctite/nyloc nuts/locking washers all over. May still have to retighten screws every few weeks.
>>910512For subsistence hunting or what?
