>>2419541Slick Rock, ID
>>2419673>If you misjudge the caliber of the Jesus Nut, climb on, fall off and the Jesus Nut rips, that’s one error in judgment.>If you cannot secure a reliable Jesus Nut, carry on anyhow and pitch off, you’ve either overestimated your ability to climb a section of rock without falling or trusted rock that failed.>Finally, if the belay anchor itself fails, it was not “good enough”; you broke the Golden Rule and paid for it with your life.very good points. we were both aware of the importance of a Jesus Nut, and did our best to place one ASAP after leaving the anchor. several of our anchors on this route probably did not meet the Golden Standard, and we were therefore relying heavily on the Jesus Nut and our ability to climb 5.6 slab without falling. thank you for the link; the document was useful and succinct.
>>2419703>>2419750the cams are placed well and the lobes are not visible. the pieces are equalized with two sliding x's (although one is invalidated by the way I clipped my PAS...). looking at the photo now, I realize that the sketchy part isn't apparent, which is that the flake the cams are placed in is completely hollow. you can see the daylight under it. this anchor replaced an even shittier one that I had built nearby after running out of rope. a nut used in that anchor actually fell out unprompted while I was moving around.
>>2419762the linked document states that an ATC can only hold 2 or 3 kn without slipping.
