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Surfing saved my life
I was surfing yesterday at Bondi
The sun reflecting off the water is really beautiful
I've been in really big and rough conditions and its been the most terrifying and exciting moments of my life
Once it was overcast, raining and it was starting to become difficult to tell the ocean from the sky due to the silver/green tint it all had. I saw a sea lion breach and a dozen birds descend to feast on its scraps