>>349571>>349689Some searching shows me you've got perch, crappie, panfish and bass up there (so stuff similar to what I fish for here in the states). And also Walleye, Muskellunge, PIke, Pickerel... things I usually only get to enjoy when I'm fishing a bit further north. A goodlight spinning setup should be a staple to any tackle setup. A sensitive rod helps with soft-lipped crappie and panfish; you'll feel every little tug. Great for the small-to-medium sized bass as well. With your reel's drag properly set it'll also land you larger bass (and even some of them big toothy fish) if you play it right; you'll definitely enjoy the fight. I use an old 5.5'ish foot Berkley Lightning Rod or a 5 foot Quantum Lite Pro with light-spinning reels (I've been pretty content with Abu Cardinals) myself using mostly 6-pound test mono.
A good "Worm Rod" setup is worth having as well. I've got a 6.5'ish foot moderate-fast action medium-heavy power rod with an older Shimano baitcaster on it. I run about 12 or 15 pound test mono on that so it can hold up against casting into and pulling fish out of thicker grass, laydowns and the sort. Then you've got various presentations. Texas rigging to get the nose down on the ground and the tail of the worm floating up. Carolina will float the whole bait with however much lead you give it. Wacky rigging is very popular and produces a good bit of movement on the rise and fall, especially with senkos or Berkley's new moneymaker soft plastics.
If you go fishing for the toothy buggers I'd advise getting some steel leader material because a lot of toothed fish will cut right through mono, fluoro and braid with ease. I manage to circumvent snakeheads stealing my lures by using wired-baits and larger aritifical baits (jig spinners, spinnerbaits, crank baits, etc) but they could still get'em if I'm not careful. If you're targeting such species it's better safe than sorry. Lost lures means lost money and hurt fish.
