>>2704084>>2704138>>2704143>>2704170First, have a look here:
https://www.growingmulberry.org/propagation> hardwood cuttingsTried that, no success ever (see below)
> softwood cuttingsTried that, now I got excess of mulberries
> is May when they start to grow leaves bestNope, aim for mid-June just when the first fruits ripen
The main reasons: 1) high success rate 2) you can choose tree basing on fruit size, taste, and see if the ripe fruit dries on tree or drops to ground; besides, mulberries (specimen-specifically) spread ripening of the fruits between across a fortnight and three months
I tried February and March - I stuck whatever I pruned from a tree, the cuttings grew small fresh leaves that held for three months and withered, no sign of roots.
Tried in May, and cuttings neither died nor rooted until fall.
Tried mid June, and it was like four out of each five rooted well and survived winter.
Tried late July, most of these rooted, but some did not survive winter.
> weeping mulberry (…) make it grow straightThat might be pretty hard to maintain, as as old as four year old branches of that variety are still flexible enough to flex downwards from gravity alone
But do it for the lulz! at least you'll get some hands-on expertise
> weeping mulberry is typically grafted onto Morus albaYes, and it's a winter graft
BTW, weeping mulberry is a m. alba variety
> weeping mulberryLooks nice, fruits are quite small, tastes meh - at least those I came across
> fruit tree cuttings are hard to root.Depends on species. For mulberry, it's easier to succeed with cuttings than with grafting.
>Grafting sounds like it's really neat, I want to learnDon't start with mulberries, it's an advanced tier; apples, pears, plums are far easier to start with - gain some exp there, then go back to mulberries
>tried to clone some apple tree whips>fruit tree cuttings are hard to rootTrue, but surprisingly some apple rootstock is propagated by cuttings in water
