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Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Bow Drill Angle - Firemaking.jpg, 469KiB, 2381x717

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2020 10:40:47 No.1696975 View View Report

Quoted By:

>>1696951
>Any trick to it I wouldn't be aware of?
If you wear shoes that don't have super bumpy tread on them you can use the soles of the shoes to spin the stick back and forth. Just put the shoes over your hands. It can be a real hand saver, but requires its own level of coordination. Wearing thin gloves is better and easier though.

Also, pic related.

>>1696972
Doesn't matter too much, but it should not be very soft. The softer it is the less pressure you use since more pressure would rub off more material before heating it. You want to polish the hell out of the end of that stick with the hole to create as much speedy friction as possible. Think like making an electric drill bit smoking because you are revving the electric drill too fast, but not pressing down hard enough.

As that happens, the resulting carbon will start to pile up at the notch and get hot until there's enough to have a sizable ember in it.

Contrary to popular belief you also don't need the same or different hardness for stick and board. It is all about how dry it is, speed, and how hard you are pressing. Practice practice practice. Try not to hurt your hands. A thicker stick with a thin end is easier to spin between your hands.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Bow Drill Angle.jpg, 469KiB, 2381x717

Anonymous Sat 04 Jan 2020 18:36:22 No.1670854 View View Report

Quoted By:

>>1670827
>doesn't tell about toxic look-alikes for pinus and toxic pinus
In case anyone is wondering, here's the toxic ones you shouldn't be making tea from,

Yew Pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus)
Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla)
English/European Yew (Taxus baccata)
Ponderosa Pine (Pinus ponderosa)
Lodgepole Pine (Pinus contorta var. latifolia)
Monterey Pine (Pinus radiata)
Balsam Fir (Abies balsamea)
Cedars (Cedrus sp.)

>>1670853
I mean don't set them to catch something if you are only practicing how to do it and happen to live in a place where they are illegal. You can't walk away from it and you can't put bait in it due to legality. If it is legal in that place then you can do whatever you want, but when you are done trapping you then LNT.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Bow Drill Angle.jpg, 469KiB, 2381x717

Anonymous Sat 14 Dec 2019 14:27:40 No.1658585 View View Report

Quoted By:

>>1658564
>someone says, "just find some fatwood!"
>...no pines in my area

>someone says, "1st get some birch bark."
>...no birch trees in my area

>someone says, "use your tinder fungus"
>...no birch trees in my area

Upon going down the list of natural fire starting materials, 90% of them are pine or birch related. The best I can do is to find dry grass stalks, milkweed seed pods, or cattails in the fall/winter. Everything else needs extra processing. Like feathering twigs and such. In spring and summer, there's almost nothing can will readily light up without some serous calorie burning on my part. I rely on my clothing to keep me warm and only make fires when I need to cook/boil something.

>>1658575
>99% of the time that shoelace breaks due to stress/heat.
Not him, but breaking the cordage you are using on the bow drill is normally caused by an incorrect angle of your bow. The bow needs to be slanted when you saw back and forth to help prevent the cord from rubbing across itself. Almost all of the bow drill info you find online does not provide this info and in fact shows the incorrect method; which is guaranteed to break your cordage. In fact, there are many survival youtube channels where people show themselves breaking the cordage then saying that you just need to do better or make the cordage correctly instead of showing the correct method in the first place.

It is quite crucial information. I hope pic related helps.

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