Quoted By:
guys can you explain how are these very small holds used. i haven't done this much but i've been trying 7a and every time on this very tiny cimps when only the fingertip is in contact with the hold, so much weight is on that tip that the last joint (it's called DIP) bends at maximun, I can't keep it straight. the DIP bends as much as it will go and forms a valley and it hurts a lot, i can't stay in that position for long. and after releasing the hold, the joint keeps hurting for more than a minute, i'm worried that i'm too weak in this part of the finger and i could get injury if keep doing it. it feels like the joint is going to give and explode or something.
are you supposed to keep the finger straight? should the DIP joint bend (the DIP joint not bent to the maximun? is this why people do hangboard, do you need to train specifically to be able to use these tiny crimps?
