Many of you might already know about this but
https://inkatlas.com/create/It is a small service that outputs PDFs (in A4 size) with a map of a given place.
You have to experiment a bit (I OpenTopoMap settings without hillshading, pic related), but the map prints fine and is overall readable.
I print them on normal paper, but I would like to try lamination to make them weather -- and sweat -- proof.
In any case, monthly reminder that a paper map and analog compass are mandatory /out/, they could save your life and are fun to use.
