>>2786556Something like Jim Green's Razorback is 3.5 pounds and you can just throw the insole away and replace it with a superfeet, tread labs, this:
https://www.varusteleka.com/en/product/jalas-fx2-climate-insoles/80990yadda yadda. I'm still experimenting with insoles. The worst part of cold for footwear (besides cutting off your circulation with too small a boot and too many layers of sock is radiation, or the transfer of cold from the rubber to your foot. With more minimalist boots I tend to avoid foam insoles and go with wool like picrel (felt store wool insole) because I typically don't need cushioning at that point.
I've also found cork to be really good but most cork insoles are not well made. The only good one i've found is Meindl's cork insoles. You need a good boot that allows a lot of range in lacing to support that though.
Note though for some insoles like the last two you may need to go up a size or 2. The m77's I use are high volume so are plenty flexible for the wool insoles. The meindl cork insoles I used in a pair of Sievi soft solid's that also allowed for a good amount of volume but did not have the best lacing.
>other welted shoesI wouldn't hike in welted boots but I will throw a few suggestions out there.
Danner (USA. don't recommend. Too clunky and low quality. Bought out by fashion brand)
Hanwag (Europe. don't recommend, bought out by same company that bought out fjallraven.)
Austrian Feldschuh Leicht (Europe. Combat boot.)
Meindl Perfekt (Europe. Too heavy)
Going on what I said earlier, if I hiked in a welted boot i'd go with Limmer Ultra Lights (too narrow for me and I don't like full length shanks even though I understand their purpose) or buy Jim Green's Chukka's. They were last only $100 on sale, could throw in an insole if you size right, weigh less than 3 pounds (probably 2.5), durable, good leather (go with suede side for hot dry weather albeit will wear faster. go with smooth side for wetter weather).
(cont)
