>>1927550The R start is only ~5.10 and no big deal. Roof is where the bidness starts, and from what I've seen/heard is it all comes down to trusting an insecure toe jam while you go for a jug fingerlock. From there you cut loose and hoist up some jugs into a stance to prepare for the dihedral; this is where I started. The first few moves of laybacking aren't so bad, then you get a long reach to a two-finger tips-lock pod and you can stem out a bit, and reach for a horizontal on the left face. Then the crack gets ridiculously thin (
>>1926964) and you do some weird contorted drop-knee laybacking and stemming for 4 moves, I couldn't figure these out at all. It'll take several tries I'm sure. Finally the crack opens up again and you get get a solid 4-finger jam all the way to the hilt on a step-like feature of the crack. Smooth sailing to the top.
I'm psyched on it but right now I feel that I'm still a couple years away from any solid redpoint attempt.
