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I stick to a clear marine epoxy on stiff parts like risers and nocks and use Titebond 3 when I laminate or back limbs because I imagine epoxy is more brittle. "Backing" is just gluing on something like rawhide or sinew to the back of the limbs which produces an unbroken back and makes the bow very unlikely to break. You can buy transparent fiberglass backingstrips online but rawhide works well and is easily acquired from dog chew toys, those tied up dogbone looking things (buy one larger than your forearm). Soak the toy in water and cut two strips of the thinnest rawhide pieces. Scrape away excess fat and meat off the rawhide while wet. Put TB3 on one side aswell as the limbs, lay it on the limbs (do one at a time) then wrap it in an elastic bandage and squeeze out excess glue (not too hard though) along the way avoid airbubbles and large blobs of glue. Work from the handle out. If the rawhide pieces meet at the handle you can cover the joint with a nice leather piece like pic related.
The "back" is actually the front of the limbs, the side that's facing away from you when firing.
Look up how to find your own draw length. Aim for making a 20-30 lbs draw weight bow initially, otherwise practicing with it will be a drag and probably you'll learn wrong if you are always struggling to draw it. Draw weight isn't everything for power. The weight of the working parts, that is limbs (including tips) and string, are somewhat important. Also look into arrow weight and spine.
B-50 or waxed, quality linen thread is right, otherwise your efforts are kinda wasted. Learn to make a flemish twist bowstring, aim for a 4-5mm thick string. Timber hitch in one end, flemish twist loop in the other.
On the bow in this picture I reinforced the riser and tips with laburnum for aesthetics. Shame it turned out lopsided.
