>>1002755Fuggg:DDD
>be me>Texas surfer>7 ft. Swell at 10 sec.>best day of surf all year and it's Sunday>wind turning offshore at noon >drive to surfside from Galveston, passing up all my home breaks>waves are bigger in Freeport, good choice>surf for 2 hours catch good one in>beach is kinda sketch>jetty jump again, paddle to spot with almost no surfers to compete with for waves>catch a bunch of great rights, get farther from everyone>catch one in to get lunch>fucking rocks and zero beach, water gets to waist deep at rocks with waves slamming and sucking back out>fuckit I got good balance and walk barefoot on rocks at river all the timebarnaclecuts.jpeg
It could have been much worse, didn't break anything or fall badly, didn't don't my board. The walk back to the truck with cut feets sucked. Road with sharp pebbles and glass or grass with stickers lol.