Quoted By:
>be me
>surfing North Shore one day
>business as usual; winter busy season
>check the buoy reports as usual
>couple days prior all eyes are on a MASSIVE NW swell incoming
>ETA is some time in the middle of the night of this day I am out surfing
>estimated swell height of 25 to 35ft faces
>rumors around Haleiwa of the Eddie going
>so, surfing that day, longboarding because the surf was maybe chest high
>having a good time with a few friends
>time is around 2:30 in the afternoon
>out of nowhere there is a looming set on the horizon
>oh neat, something a bit better to surf and about head high
>about 8 waves per set and about a 10 second interval
>a few sets later and people are getting shacked
>half hour goes by and the entire mood in the water has become more serious as sets were already approaching double overhead
>beginning to feel outgunned on my longboard
>most of the lineup has gone in
>periodically check the beach to see lifeguards who are never at this area of North Shore begin closing off the beach and removing people off the beach
>sets are becoming progressively larger with solid double overhead, 18 sec intervals
>at this point its me and one other guy
>entire channel is closing out; several regular surf breaks have become one massive surf break
>people are beginning to look and point out toward myself and the other guy
>he eventually catches one in
>out there by myself
>getting a bit worried
>decide I'll skip the set wave, let the set wash through and attempt to catch the back wave
>the current is fucking working like crazy at this point...so much water moving and trying to hold a position away from the peak
>decide this has to be the set or risk lifeguard pick up via jet ski or paddling all the way to Haleiwa harbor
>second to last wave of the set, point it toward the beach and start scratching
>rope the wave, pop up and drop in
>get absolutely fucking shacked on a 9'0" Aipa
>pull out, ride the rest of the way in on my stomach while shitting myself
