>>2571979>>2571585>>2571980I know its
>DUDE WEEDbut this chart is pretty accurate, most seedlings can tolerate light up to about 300PPFD, most vegetative plants max out at 800PPFD without additional CO2. Leafy greens usually need about 300, 200 is rather low. Only invest above 600 if you NEED to fruit/flower something that you cant just do in a pot outside, lighting gets expensive.
>IGNORE PAR>IGNORE LUMENS>PPF IS YOUR GODPPF = umol/s
PPFD = umol/m^2/s
umol/s can be calculated of the lights umol/J rating x the Wattage. So a 24W Fluorescent bulb @ 1.4umol/J will produce 33.6 PPF.
This should be provided by any LED grow light manufacturer, if they don't tell you what the umol/J or umol/W rating is in the spec sheet don't even consider buying it. Other types of lights are too inconsistent to say exactly.
Ali express shit is ALL false advertising. I don't know the brands in your country but I guarantee you have a hydroponics store within 30km of you if you're near a city, go there. Online brands like mars hydro and pro-gro are good, steer clear of spyderfarm/viparspectra/thin looking boards, they false advertise. Most drivers for 100W+ LED lights are at least the size of a small book.
>Fluorescent bulbs1.2 to 1.6 umol/W
>HPS/CMH 1.6 to 1.9 umol/W
>COB LED 1.6 to 2.3 umol/W
>SMD LED 1.9 to 3.0 umol/W
>23 x 66cm>0.15sqm>90umol for 600PPFD>30-50W LED Obviously the light dissipates with the inverse square law, so these PPFD values are usually standardized for 60cm distance.
If you want to start cheaply, get fluorescent bulbs with a driver rack, 24W x4 or anything else that gets you close to 100W. Do stick with SMD LEDs though if you are going to buy an LED. 100W SMD LED should never cost more than about $130 USD. Fluros probably less than $60.
>t. hydroponics salesman