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Gimmick, but a gimmick with good intentions. The technology makes a lot more sense when you scale it up. BioLite's primary mission is actually to provide better cooking, heating and electricity for people in areas that lack good infrastructure, the backpacking model is just a way of underwriting R&D. Other /out/ companies like Sawyer and Goal Zero use similar strategies.
If I had an off-grid cabin or semi-permanent encampment I'd think about getting one of their bigger models, but I wouldn't get the backpacking model.