>>1334041I've been buying, collecting, sharpening, and selling, and trading knives since 2011. I have like 40+ folders and 20+ fixed blades, all ranging from $25 to $250. Classics to Modern. I used to be pretty active with some of the Knife Youtubers, I've been on plenty of forums and message boards, and I've managed to pay for most of my hobby (including equipment) with sharpening.
I don't want to be presumptuous, but I think most people may consider me a "serious knife person".
Most of my knife sharpening is done on my Wicked Edge set up that I have been using and upgrading since 2013ish. Considering that I've funded all of my equipment, and most of my knives with sharpening, you can imagine that I have many a times sat down to sharpen 7+ knives in one evening. This is where set angle set ups shine. But it's more than that, they are so accurate and variable, it makes for a great platform for testing different edges, because you can know the exact geometry of the edge you made.
Now I don't do all of my work on my WE. I do have a full Water Stone set up, a Norton Tri-stone oil stone set up, free hand strops, 1x30 belt grinder (rough work for larger stuff), Spyderco Sharpmaker (mostly serrations), and so on...
But honestly you are giving pretty shit advice, how do you expect to get any work done fast with only 1k as a low grit? Have you never had to remove a chip or roll? Or have to sharpen a seriously dull knife? Re-profiling would be just about out of the question. Having a 400ish is a good starting point. In fact on my WE I normally start at 100 grit diamond, but can go as low as 60 if it is really needed. And free hand I have a 150ish DMT bench plate, I follow up with a 400 Naniwa Chosera or 600ish Norton oil.
And high end set angle system is not limited like a Lansky. Most of the time I sharpen "V" bevel because that's what people want and its more aesthetic most the time. But it's easy enough to do a compound convex by knocking the shoulders off.
