>>1389825I would not use a puck... But considering it's a Scandi grind, don't worry it's supper easy on a bench stone. And you can always practice on a Mora first. Basically the most simple, quality, and cost effective way to sharpen a Scandi IMO is just a classic whet or water bench-stone. A double sided will do fine. More on that later though.
This is a Norton India stone.
https://www.amazon.com/Norton-614636855653-8-Inch-Combination-Oilstone/dp/B07HLQJVRR/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541164991&sr=8-3&keywords=norton+india+stoneOne side is 100grit, which is very aggressive, you would use it if the knife is very dull. Wet the stone with slightly soapy water, or honing oil, or mineral oil. Just keep the bevel flat on the stone, and slide the blade diagonally heel to tip from the bottom to the top of the stone. Once the scratches look uniform, you can change the direction to tip to heel, changing the scratch pattern like this helps take of material faster. Keep going until you have gotten a burr across both sides of the edge and the full length. This means you have actually gotten both sides of the bevel to meat at the edge apex.
Now move to the other side (320 grit) and repeat until you no longer see the scratches from the 100 grit. If you do not plan to go to higher grits, alternate the side every pass for 10 or so passes, putting less and less pressure on the edge with each, this will mostly remove the burr. You may find sliding the knife vertically (instead of diagonally) near the end to leave a more aesthetically pleasing look. But that's up to you.
After 320 grit you knife should be working sharp, good enough for normal use. However you may consider getting higher grit stones for a better polish for a few reasons. Higher polishes leave a more keen edge, slightly improve rust resistance, can be more durable, and are more aesthetic.
Count.
