>>1396954Burr to burr is the absolute foundation of what sharpening is. Most beginners can't get their knife sharp because they never actually get the two sides to apex, the easiest way to insure one has found the apex is to raise a burr on either side.
>Can one sharpen with out burr to burr? Yes and no. Ideally one would never raise a burr because doing so means more material than needed was taken off. A very skilled sharpener can skip up grits with out creating a burr at the lower grits. They use their experience and judgment to know when they can move up from their profiling grit to the polishing grit(s) and be able to apex and create the burr at the higher polish, thus taking off less material.
But that's kind of fucking hard. I have yet to be able to do it free hand with out luck. I can do it half way on my Wicked Edge, I can skip
apex on my 100 or 200 stones, and I normally apex at 600 or 800. If one skips up too soon it will mean they have to spend a shit ton of extra time on their higher polishing stones to make up, or bite the bullet and have to jump back down to lower grits.
>1000 grit, you won't get one.This is wrong. All grits raise a burr if you are at apex. A 1000 grit burr is harder to feel and see than a 400, but I can still feel it. The whole point of polishing is to get the apex plains closer and closer and the burr smaller and smaller. Sure at some point at a supper high grit, the burr maybe too small to support it's self at all, but by that time it's a non-factor indeed.
Also, sure one can start at 1,000 grit if the knife is already decently sharp and you are just touching it up or micro-beveling, but if the knife is really dull, or you are thinning the bevel, or repairing a roll/chip, for god sake, save your self the time and start at a lower grit. Any damage from a low grit stone is fixed with the higher grits, and low grit chip out really only starts to be a problem with really hard knives, like 62hrc+.
