>>1558861Oops meant to say convex grind not scandi. Start sharpening fairly flat, and then as you finish go more and more aggressive with the angle to create a convex curve. The more aggressive the angle, the less sharp but the longer the sharpness will hold. That said I only do this for small innawoods hatchets cause I don't want to carry a sharpener and I abuse them a lot (including digging). If I had a hand sharpener for splitting axes, I would do a tiny convex on a LARGE and thick hollow grind (or flat since it's easier). Since I have a machine sharpener I just do a flat grind cause I can fix the edge quickly.
As for the handle, it doesn't need to be tight on a splitting axe. Just dunk the handle in the ground vertically with the head in the air using the weight. Maybe use a rubber/wooden mallet to mash it out. Some people soak theirs with the head attached before this part but idk. You can make a wedge too p easy if you consider the direction of the fibres, but generally handles wear out so don't focus on a beater part too much and don't spend too much on it. You can make a replacement yourself.
Also I never used a double bladed axe but I guess it's good for wearing out an edge and just switching if it's purely a felling axe. Idk if that compensates enough for that you can't split logs using their own weight.
