>>1663002Read the response in the the later published editions of Into Thin Air. Krakauer has his issues, but The Climb wasn't even written by Boukreev directly, and a lot of the information presented in it does not line up with the verifiable information Krakauer provides. DeWalts accounts of interviews with other people on Everest are questionable at beast. Into Thin Air is dramatized, but it's certainly more accurate.
Boukreev did fuck up from a guiding perspective on that '96 expedition. Not using supplemental oxygen and refusing to work directly with the less experienced clients until the storm had already hit are pretty big problems in performing your job duties, and seeing as how when he acted as head guide for his own later expeditions he always used oxygen and was directly involved with clients he clearly had figured that out.