/out/ - Outdoors » Thread #178521

[83 / 16 / ?]

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Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 17:56:29 No.178521 View View Reply Original Report

Quoted By: >>178626 >>178865 >>179389 >>180294

Just looking for some feedback - does this seem like it is a decent cheap ass fixed blade knife? I'm looking for something that is somewhat reliable yet affordable for my survival pack.

http://www.amazon.com/MTECH-USA-MT-086-Fixed-Overall/dp/B003U7SC6O/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1376415516&sr=1-7&keywords=fixed+blade+knife

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 17:59:43 No.178525 Report

Quoted By: >>178531 >>178533

captcha
>woodcut servef

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:02:26 No.178531 Report

Quoted By: >>178979

>>178525
Oh pretty

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:03:19 No.178533 Report

Quoted By: >>178535

>>178525
It looks kind of small though.

Does size matter in this?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:05:35 No.178535 Report

Quoted By: >>178537

>>178533
depends
do you want to stab vietcong or work with wood?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:09:08 No.178537 Report

Quoted By: >>178540 >>178541

>>178535
Both.

Well, it's mainly going to be for camping or outdoors stuff and maybe for some around the house work if need be.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:11:18 No.178540 Report

Quoted By: >>178544 >>178947

>>178537
mora
opinel
small axe
folding saw

these 4 things are all you can need

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:11:57 No.178541 Report

Quoted By: >>178947

>>178537
then a 4inch blade is enough

you can still stab a motherfucker with that, if you know what you are doing anyway

big knife just adds weight and is shitty for fine work
also its not easy finding a cheap big knife that uses good steel, the lower price class is pretty much all 420 stainless, which is shit

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:14:52 No.178544 Report

Quoted By:

>>178540
As an outdoor tourism guide, I approve of this.
The Opinel can be replaced by a locking Vic, a Buck 112, and lots of other good folders if you don't want a Tamagotchi knife.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:28:43 No.178558 Report

Quoted By: >>178561 >>178563

The plastic sheath that comes with the moras seems cheap as hell.

Other than that though, I really like a few of them. They look seem to be pretty good quality and they are easy on the eyes too.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:32:36 No.178561 Report

Quoted By:

>>178558
well, I make my own sheaths, but for my mora I use the platic sheath, it locks well and its really durable, plus it has a hole at the bottom so water can flow out which is really handy since it's carbon steel and if it gets wet you can still carry it in the sheath, which I wouldnt do with leather which gets soaked to shit

Madsen Maskingevær

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Madsen Maskingevær Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:33:26 No.178563 Report

Quoted By:

>>178558
the sheaths are craptastic, but they are more durable then you'd think

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:37:19 No.178568 Report

Quoted By: >>178574 >>178576 >>178582

Okay, you guys are really selling me on the Mora, but I am stuck between these three, any thoughts?

http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Allround-Multi-Purpose-Sandvik-4-0-Inch/dp/B004W05QFS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1I59WQUH0KBC6&coliid=I3I81MJ0J960VY&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Light-Fire-FireKnife-Stainless-FireSteel/dp/B007BO9G1W/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1376418975&sr=8-10&keywords=mora

http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Classic-Craftsmen-Utility-3-9-Inch/dp/B003Z5CTV0/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1376419004&sr=8-16&keywords=mora

Madsen Maskingevær

Madsen Maskingevær Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:42:34 No.178574 Report

Quoted By: >>178577

>>178568
never had one of the classic style knives with a guard on it so personally I wouldent pick 3.
I too have been looking at 1 and 2, I am not sure I like the profiling near the point of the fireknife, and I sometimes camp with a dude who loves 1. and praises it to the sky, and the grip on it is nice
but as far as I know with mora, unless you have a preference, anyone of them will do
but id go with 1. out of these 3.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:46:39 No.178576 Report

Quoted By:

>>178568
I have the classic craftsman
wouldnt buy it if you want to use it as a main outdoors knife, I use it for whittling and fine woodwork, which is exactly what it was made for

if I was you I'd get the first or a Mora 2000, which is a bit more expensive but exactly what you are looking for

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:46:51 No.178577 Report

Quoted By: >>178580

>>178574
I was eyeballing that one too. Looks like I know what I'm getting now, thanks /out/ you guys are awesome

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:49:33 No.178580 Report

Quoted By:

>>178577
And by "that one" I mean the first one.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:53:26 No.178582 Report

Quoted By: >>178583 >>178584

>>178568
>http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Allround-Multi-Purpose-Sandvik-4-0-Inch/dp/B004W05QFS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1I59WQUH0KBC6&coliid=I3I81MJ0J960VY&psc=1
That one is a Mora 711, nice big handle, good blade, can't go wrong with it.
Whilst your at it, buy a cheap arkansas sharpening stone with medium to fine grit.Waterstone will also do.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:56:05 No.178583 Report

Quoted By:

>>178582
I use waterstones, wouldnt recommend them to beginners (at sharpening) or generally people who just have one or 2 blades to sharpen, they are a mess to take care of if you use them often and they are expensive

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 18:56:58 No.178584 Report

Quoted By: >>178589 >>178842

>>178582
Well, I have a sharpener already that seems to do a good job. I have no experience sharpening things and I was able to get a decent edge on my gator jr with it. If I find it I'll post it....ah, not sure if this is the exact one that I have but it is very similar to this:

http://www.amazon.com/Smiths-DCS4-4-Inch-Diamond-Sharpening/dp/B00009YV6L/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1376420177&sr=1-5&keywords=arkansas+sharpening+stone

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 19:03:06 No.178589 Report

Quoted By: >>178608

>>178584
As cheap as a Mora might seem, they have excellent carbon steel blades and most important, a Skandi grind, this means they have no secondary bevel, you just press the main bevel against the sharpening stone and rub it.
They Moras come good sharp out of factory and hold their edge long, but if you give em some love on the whetting stone they become ridiculously sharp. vid related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTORh8Riblo

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 19:35:20 No.178608 Report

Quoted By:

>>178589
That's good to know. When I first tried to sharpen my Gator Jr I thought I had ruined it, but I eventually got it nice enough to take chunks out of smaller trees so I am happy with it right now. It may not be sharp enough to cut right through wood but it sticks in and leaves good gouges cut in to wood, so I am happy.

Still, glad to hear that I won't need to worry about the Mora at first.

Madsen Maskingevær

Madsen Maskingevær Tue 13 Aug 2013 19:45:51 No.178613 Report

Quoted By:

oh that glorious feel when you get you Opinel or Mora or any other knife hair shaving sharp

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Aug 2013 20:12:38 No.178626 Report

Quoted By:

>>178521
cudeman knives
cds knives
kabar Becker series

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 01:13:31 No.178842 Report

Quoted By:

>>178584
>http://www.amazon.com/Smiths-DCS4-4-Inch-Diamond-Sharpening/dp/B00009YV6L/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1376420177&sr=1-5&keywords=arkansas+sharpening+stone
I have one of those and use it occasionally for pocket knives. It rides in my car. I'd never use it on a Scandi grind. Get a hard Arkansas stone, and get one that's at least two inches by five inches. They're cheap enough and your knife will appreciate it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 01:47:29 No.178865 Report

Quoted By:

>>178521
>survival
>cheap ass

good luck friend

Anonymous

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Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 02:14:25 No.178884 Report

Quoted By: >>178947

Glorious C.D.S. Woodlore.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 03:07:05 No.178943 Report

Quoted By:

Another less expensive option if you want the full-width full tang knife is an Old Timer. They're 440A now, so you'll have to sharpen it more often than you would a Mora, but they're pretty good for 440A.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 03:15:10 No.178947 Report

Quoted By: >>178952 >>178983 >>178988

>>178540
>these 4 things are all you can need
what a bunch of bullshit. are you dumb or do you just think that everybody lives in a pine forest?

>>178541
now here we go with the arbitrary bullshit "4 inches is the best inches."

>>178884
good lord, what a horrible knife. it's fucking hollow ground... they expect you to cut wood with that? you're not going to be able to cut deep at all as it's going to bind up. it's also too thick to be that low of a grind.

holy fuck, this board is shit. I bet you faggots think "scandi" grinds are universally awesome for no other reason than because that's what moras have. it's never occurred to you that they do it for ease of production and can only get away with it because they are thin.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 03:23:47 No.178952 Report

Quoted By: >>178971

>>178947
you must be the same guy who's been calling everyone pussies, recommending an ATV for serious offroading, and shitting all over peoples gear in gear threads

if /out/ is so shit, why don't you get the fuck out? god damn hostile fuckers like you really need to get whats coming to you. you're all talk until someone bumps into you at arms length.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 03:48:37 No.178971 Report

Quoted By:

>>178952
>you must be the same guy who's been calling everyone pussies
actually this is my first visit and I've yet to call anyone a pussy, pussy.

>recommending an ATV for serious offroading
yeah, no. you need 38"s to do any serious crawling where I live. as far as ATVs, I'd put my buddy and his 350x up against any quad, anywhere short of a swamp. I figure that'd be more of an >>>/o/ thing though.

>shitting all over peoples gear in gear threads
actually, I was shitting on:
1) anyone actually needs to carry around an axe outside of winter in a boreal forest.
it's fine if you want one but, recommending it to EVERYONE like some evangelical faggot, is dumb.

2) recommending objectively shitty performing knives.
again, it's fine for you. but you sound like a retard when you recommend them

> god damn hostile fuckers like you really need to get whats coming to you.
the irony...

>you're all talk until someone bumps into you at arms length
stop projecting.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 03:56:05 No.178979 Report

Quoted By:

>>178531
Welcome to /out/

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 04:03:44 No.178983 Report

Quoted By: >>178994

>>178947
>I bet you faggots think "scandi" grinds are universally awesome

What is your preferred grind Anon?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 04:12:57 No.178988 Report

Quoted By: >>178998

>>178947
>it's never occurred to you that they do it for ease of production and can only get away with it because they are thin.
Actually, it occurred to me that the Scandi grind is a traditional grind predating modern assembly-line production methods. And I have only one knife with a Scandi grind and I do like it. No, it's not a Mora.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 04:17:30 No.178994 Report

Quoted By:

>>178983
what ever provides the least cutting resistance. a knife is an inclined plane right? following that, I would would say a full height flat grind. then a tiny little edge grind to strengthen the edge and make sharpening as easy as possible in the field. grinding the flats on a slack belt to give it a slight convex is okay too, I guess. sometimes helps keep it from wedging in wood and things like potatoes from sticking to the blade so much. partial height grinds are okay if the blade is super thin and the transition is high enough.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 04:33:03 No.178998 Report

Quoted By: >>178999 >>179005

>>178988
>Actually, it occurred to me that the Scandi grind is a traditional grind predating modern assembly-line production methods
then you'd be wrong. ancient knives were forged to need the least amount of grinding necessary, as it was easier. almost every culture would forge them into a wedge shape with a high taper, before sharpening them.

"scandi" isn't even a real term. the fact is that it is mostly a product of "modern" production, because it's easier to stamp out the blanks and only make one single grind per side rather than grind it and then grind the edge. it's production efficiency and nothing more.

>I have only one knife with a Scandi grind and I do like it.
how horrible. you do all your home cooking with your camping knife?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 04:35:31 No.178999 Report

Quoted By:

>>178998
oops misread that. you only have one "scandi" knife. if we are going to go forward, I'm going to stop calling it "scandi". they didn't invent the partial height grind...

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 04:45:46 No.179005 Report

Quoted By: >>179015

>>178998
>almost every culture would forge them into a wedge shape with a high taper, before sharpening them.
There are some notable exceptions, but it was common. The final grind was often done on a foot-powered wheelstone. I can think of several grinds that were used from a very long time ago: Scandinavian (properly a "low flat grind"), high flat grind (sabre grind), compound grind (my preferred edge), full flat grind, and convex grind. These all predate modern production.

I like the convex grind in general because it offers a good compromise between insane sharpness and edge durability.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 05:16:45 No.179015 Report

Quoted By: >>179023

>>179005
>Scandinavian
yeah, I'm going to need a few citations that a partial height grind was invented in Scandinavia. then a citation that it had a flat grind when being made on a round wheel. you have two options with a round stone: convex or concave. even with a gigantic stone, they aren't flat. it will always be concave unless you rock it up and down creating a convex. it can't be flat if the contact surface is smaller than the area being ground.

>I like the convex grind in general because it offers a good compromise between insane sharpness and edge durability.
that's actually 2 fallacies.

>insane sharpness
you can't create a convex at the edge without rolling over to some degree. a flat ground edge will always have a more precise apex.

2) a convex isn't stronger at the edge. shaping an apple seed behind the edge doesn't reinforce it in any way. the edge thickness is what matters. you are just adding more cutting resistance and if you scaled up a flat grind to the same level of resistance, you would have a stronger and still more precise apex.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 05:29:53 No.179023 Report

Quoted By: >>179043 >>179044

>>179015
>>179015
>I'm going to need a few citations that a partial height grind was invented in Scandinavia
I didn't say it was, I said it's called a Scandi grind. And flat surfaces are created using round cutting devices all day in most machine shops. The edge doesn't have to be perpendicular to the short side of the wheel. Run the edge with and/or against the direction
of travel of the wheel and it'll be flat as a pane of glass and smooth as a baby's bottom. Rotate your thinking 90 degrees.
>>179015
>I like the convex grind in general because it offers a good compromise between insane sharpness and edge durability.
Shit, hellfire, and damnation! I meant to say compound grind, which I did a sentence before. I cut my edges at 18-20 degrees then come back and cut them again at 22-25 degrees. The profile looks like a miniature cold chisel. Tough 25 degree angle holds up well and the 20 degree line behind it provides clearance.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 06:28:00 No.179043 Report

Quoted By: >>179361 >>179364

>>179023
>Run the edge with and/or against the direction
of travel of the wheel and it'll be flat as a pane of glass and smooth as a baby's bottom. Rotate your thinking 90 degrees.
rotate your thinking back into reality. that would only work well with a jig. instead of being supported against the width of the stone you are only supported against the the stone by the narrow width of the grind. it's going to jump and tilt in and out, digging in waves.

>I cut my edges at 18-20 degrees then come back and cut them again at 22-25 degrees
what's the thickness behind the edge? I grind the entire flats on mine down to the edge thickness I want, then cut a tiny 25° or so bevel. after using and sharpening so much that the edge gets too thick again and the bevel gets so wide that it's taking too long to hand sharpen, I start over and grind the flats again on my belt grinder.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 06:36:06 No.179044 Report

Quoted By: >>179045 >>179361

>>179023
not really trying to be a jerk, though I know I come off as one, I just can't find examples of that being a traditional grind prior to the industrial revolution. any examples would be helpful.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 06:38:38 No.179045 Report

Quoted By: >>179050 >>179361

>>179044
Gimme a few minutes. I'm doing a research paper while I play around on here.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 06:55:49 No.179050 Report

Quoted By: >>179361 >>179364

>>179045
Go for it sperglord, as if anyone woulde give a shit.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO voyrinpuukko.jpg, 222KiB, 2964x1036

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 22:27:11 No.179361 Report

Quoted By: >>180278

>>179044
>>179050

>>179045 and >>179043 here. We had an electrical storm last night and I got the hell off the internet.

Here's a puukko from the 18th century with the Scandi grind. Left it unaltered so you could reverse GIS it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 22:32:21 No.179364 Report

Quoted By: >>180278

>>179043
>rotate your thinking back into reality. that would only work well with a jig.
Are you dense? Have you never seen a table saw? Replace the saw blade with a grinder wheel and you have the idea. It's a damned old idea, dating from before the days of lathe beds made of hardwood.

>what's the thickness behind the edge?
Generally left to factory thickness because I wouldn't have bought it if I didn't like it.

>I grind the entire flats on mine down to the edge thickness I want
I don't want a knife that thin. I'll take the extra thickness for the strength. If I wanted something that skinny, I'd carry a filet knife.

>>179050
>sperglord
First time anybody's called me that. I'm honored.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Wed 14 Aug 2013 23:08:25 No.179389 Report

Quoted By:

>>178521
>>178521
goto your local flea market, look for the guy who sells old tools, he should have a good knife that just needs sharpened and youll be able to jew him down to a couple bucks

Piney Daypacker

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Piney Daypacker Thu 15 Aug 2013 01:05:17 No.179441 Report

Quoted By: >>179565 >>180294

I own the Schrade Ultimate Survival knife. Got it off knifecenter forlike $40 shipped or something like that. Its a gread survival/beater knife. Doesnt come with an incredible edge but its hefty, has a hammer head base, nail puller ect. It stays on my pack and is used mainly for shit jobs that I wouldnt wanna hurt my nicer knives on in a non-survival situation.

Pic is what I have, they have a few different kinds. YouTube has a video with some harsh abuse on one, like cutting through a cinder block and such. Worth checking out.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Aug 2013 02:20:42 No.179501 Report

Quoted By: >>179537

Q:
Why are the back of some SURVIVALLLL knives notched/serrated like that? Like in OP's pic a few other examples

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Aug 2013 03:31:49 No.179537 Report

Quoted By: >>180294 >>180505

>>179501
Serrations cut through tougher material that would take longer with a smooth blade, and dull it faster as a result. Serrations don't need to be sharpened. Now, you can exert greater force the closer to the handle you work, and it's best to have a serration be as close as possible. However, since this rule also applies to the normal blade, it's best to have the serration on the back to keep it from taking up valuable space on the blade.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Aug 2013 04:09:29 No.179565 Report

Quoted By: >>180290

>>179441
any time i see a knife with "ultimate survival" in the title i automatically dismiss it as anything worth while.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 13:19:06 No.180278 Report

Quoted By:

>>179361
how is that a scandi grind? it's almost full height. it looks like they only stopped the grind there to not weaken the tip. also if you look at the direction of the grind marks they don't support your assertion about how the knife was ground either.

>>179364
>Generally left to factory thickness
enjoy your factory performance standard set for the lowest denominator user.

>I don't want a knife that thin
where in any of what I said did it even imply that I grind the knife particularly thin? I have outdoor utility knives ranging from 1/4" to 1/8". I sharpen them all using the procedure I previously stated. in fact the end result is almost exactly like the 18th century puukko you posted. if you look close you can even see the remnants of a 2ndry bevel.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 13:36:46 No.180290 Report

Quoted By:

>>179565
me too
9/10 times you get some shitty plastic handle with shit steel that holds no edge and 'muh serrations'

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 13:42:45 No.180294 Report

Quoted By: >>180302 >>180505

>>179537
yeah, but the notches in >>179441 and >>178521 are clearly not for cutting anything, they dont even have an edge, they are just there to look tactical

if you really want a shit knife to abuse and nothing else, then get something like this
cost me 15 euros with sheath, is made of the same shitty steel as all those 'ultimate survival knives' has a thick blade and your precious 'full tang' (which we all know is just a means for easier production) and it doesnt look like replica from a rambo movie

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 14:11:22 No.180302 Report

Quoted By: >>180304 >>180305

>>180294
why would I want a Bob Loveless knock-off for camping? that's a hunting knife they aren't really that great at much else. that one looks like they didn't contour the guard at all and would be uncomfy as hell in hand while carving.

>'full tang' (which we all know is just a means for easier production)
it's kind of ironic that you post that statement and a Loveless knock off. I'm sure that one isn't but, the original knife was full tang for a reason and it sure as hell wasn't ease of production. it had an annealed and tapered full tang. it tapered similar to how the blade tapers and it gave it perfect balance. it also made it tough under prying forces, as the tang would flex rather than snap the blade. a tapered tang is actually kind of a bitch to make properly and almost nobody does it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 14:12:32 No.180304 Report

Quoted By:

>>180302
>I'm sure that one isn't
was talking about a tapered tang not implying that one isn't full tang.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 14:18:34 No.180305 Report

Quoted By:

>>180302
well, in the end it all comes down to what you want anyway, I suppose

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 14:35:15 No.180314 Report

Quoted By: >>180316 >>180325 >>180329

Get a mora. End of story

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 14:36:58 No.180316 Report

Quoted By: >>180325

>>180314
should be a sticky

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 15:10:11 No.180325 Report

Quoted By: >>180339

>>180314
>End of story
right because one knife fits all needs...

>>180316
>should be a sticky
the sticky should be to get an Opinel. the Mora is no stronger

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 15:17:10 No.180329 Report

Quoted By: >>180337

>>180314
>Get a mora
mora is for hipsters.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 15:26:15 No.180337 Report

Quoted By: >>180345

>>180329
> In America mora is for hipsters.
ftfy

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 15:27:12 No.180339 Report

Quoted By: >>180351

>>180325
confirmed for never having owned a mora

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 15:32:45 No.180345 Report

Quoted By:

>>180337
> outside Scandinavia mora is for hipsters
ftfy

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 15:38:04 No.180351 Report

Quoted By: >>180355 >>180356

>>180339
confirmed for never actually using his.

they're cool if they just stay in a drawer, I guess...

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 15:42:01 No.180355 Report

Quoted By: >>180371 >>180378

>>180351
>hurrr durr i tried to pry open a crate full of hamburgers becuz i was so hungry inna da woods
>but muh stoopid knife broke fookin sweeds
>only buy USA MUHREENS KABAR BRAND KABARS

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 15:43:47 No.180356 Report

Quoted By:

>>180351
oh look at you big guy, posting pictures and shit, I am totally going to disregard my own experience now and take your word as complete and infallible truth

> congratulations on finding the 45th picture under "broken mora" on google

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 15:51:41 No.180360 Report

Quoted By: >>180361 >>180362 >>180365 >>180371 >>180525

Mora / ESEE overhyped hipster crap

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 15:53:34 No.180361 Report

Quoted By: >>180369

>>180360
> le master ruse
keep pushing your agenda, maeby one day you can convince someone who dosent know anything that your right, that day will be great wont it?, sure will make it all worth it

> third picture on google this time
try posting your pictures of the product failing you

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 15:54:50 No.180362 Report

Quoted By: >>180369

>>180360
> no questions asked lifetime warranty

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 15:56:15 No.180365 Report

Quoted By: >>180369

>>180360
> claims esee´s are over hyped hipster crap
> postes rat cutlery
you dun goofed

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 16:02:02 No.180369 Report

Quoted By: >>180373

>>180361
>>180362
>>180365
samefag
>>180365
>> claims esee´s are over hyped hipster crap
>> postes rat cutlery
>you dun goofed
both us-company's share the same steel and heat treatment. same production line.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 175004-mvc-001f.jpg, 56KiB, 640x480

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 16:03:17 No.180371 Report

Quoted By: >>180375 >>180530 >>180534

>>180355
" I was using it to split some oak for another spoon,
being as gentle as possible with the thin blade, scandi grind and stick tang.
Into literally a minute of use, it catastrophically failed, sending half of the blade one way,
while the other half bent back and shot a piece of the handle off.
Another tiny shard came off of the second part of the blade, rocketing through
the air and finally bouncing off my eyebrow, I am extremely lucky it did not hit
any lower or get imbedded, it just left a scratch"

>>180360
"And in one moment my whole body weight was applied and the tip snapped off."

>entire body weight on tip = broken esse tip
>lightly batoning oak = catastrophic mora failure.
why is there is even a debate about this?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 16:06:24 No.180373 Report

Quoted By:

>>180369
>both us-company's share the same steel and heat treatment. same production line.
no they don't RAT is made exclusively by Ontario now. ESEE is made by Rowen. Ontario heat treat has always been questionable and the OC sucks. Rowen small scale production with a quality heat treat.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 16:06:58 No.180375 Report

Quoted By:

>>180371
> mora craftman
not for outdoor use.
please don't complain when productas aren't used as intended

> MUH BATTONING

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 16:11:41 No.180378 Report

Quoted By:

>>180355
lel, my sides are gone

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 20:39:44 No.180505 Report

Quoted By:

>>179537
>>180294
Thanks.

Well it was kind of obvious they were for cutting. But as second post said some of them aren't even edged look pretty tacticool rather than useful.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 21:20:28 No.180525 Report

Quoted By:

>>180360
I think if there was 'hipsters' of the outdoors i dont think they would choose a mora. They are really popular and would be too 'mainstream'.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 21:33:31 No.180530 Report

Quoted By: >>180540

>>180371
>using a craftsman for splitting wood
>using a knife to split wood
>using the wrong tool for the wrong job
>complain when something goes wrong
I dunno man, would you use a hammer to open a can and then complain when the insides get squished?
Use the right tool for the right job and they will last you a lifetime, ignore this rule and you will be prone to hurting yourself

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO product.jpg, 420KiB, 916x2362

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 21:39:14 No.180534 Report

Quoted By: >>180543

>>180371
and if you really need a mora to baton with, then atleast use the one they actually made for that
http://moraofsweden.se/adventure/companion-heavy-duty-mg

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1160783449-Froe2.jpg, 103KiB, 704x528

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 21:46:15 No.180540 Report

Quoted By: >>180544

>>180530
>not using a knife to split kindling

you are aware that people have been spliting kindling and making shingles with froes for hundreds of years, right? it IS the right tool for the job and there's no reason it can't pull double duty as a knife. the problem is people use shitty knives to do it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 21:48:32 No.180543 Report

Quoted By:

>>180534
doesn't fix the problem of the shitty handle. that fails more on moras than anything.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Aug 2013 22:00:27 No.180544 Report

Quoted By:

>>180540
yes and you dont split kindling with some frail whittling knife but with something more suitable for the job, like your picture

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