>>1886765Build up first a pyramid of easy grades. As a beginner, strength and head game will go hand in hand. This experience will also get you to trust the gear, which is key for a good head game.
Whenever you start to get nervous and get Michael Jackson leg stop and try to spend as needed breething deeply until you get your bearings again. Excercise this before getting onto the route as well.
Then, start practice falls as the other anon mentioned. Begin top roping just letting go. then tell your belayer to stop taking in slack, do one move and let go, then two moves and let go, and so on. Then start leading, at first clip and let go, then do one move and let go, then two, three, until you are comfortable falling almost reaching the next clip.
Never go one step ahead until you are fully comfortable at the current one. Getting over a fear is walking a thin line, the fear can actually get worse if you push too hard too soon.
Something that helped me as a beginner was to look around behind me once I topped out a route no matter how nervous I would be and stay there until I felt comfortable.
Learn to choose a proper spot for falling practice. Best is indoors on an overhanging route. If you do it outdoors make sure there aren't any ledges youcan bump to or that you aren't in a diagonal to the last clip (regarding this, when jumping, always do it in the direction of the last clip to avoid swinging).
Last but not least, you should always slightly jump backwards, but not a lot. The strength of the jump depends on the steepness of the route. In an overhanging is enough to just let go. Then, the more slabby a lcimb gets, the stronger youll need to jump. It comes to a point where the good thing on a slab is not to jump, but kind of run backwards. Anyway, if you jump too hard, you'll describe a big semi circle back to the wall instead of mostly falling vertically, and chances are that you will hurt your ankles.
This is all I can think of now. Be safe out there, anon.
