>>2179645>best /out/ carSuzuki SJ series. Not produced anymore though, with the heavier jimny taking over.
I've got an old one, from the one year when they put in aeroplane engines (G13BB SOHC - they later put in the heavier but cheaper DOHC version). Even driving with road tires, I barely need the 4wd.
And the best thing is that you can take it apart with just basic tools. I lifted the body off with a simple carjack and some boards, for example. And the transmissions, axles and springs are light enough to just take them out by hand.
In general though, any car is useable as long as it has
1. solid axles. Otherwise, it'll hit the ground on bumps or under load.
2. either 2+2 drive, or a central locker. Axle lockers are good, but not needed outside of snow and deep mud.
3. light. Under 1500kg is the minimum, lighter is better. My Samurai weighs in at 1035kg, and that's still heavy enough to be a bother on soft soil.
4. manual. Hydraulic automatics are worthless offroad, as they'll spin tires and dig in if you give a little too much gas. Computer controlled automatics work to some extent, but will still spin tires. With a manual, you can avoid spinning tires completely once you're used to using the clutch.
5. small size. Off the trail, or on badly maintained trails, a narrower car means you can avoid obstacles instead of driving over them. An UTV is best in that regard, but everything up to the size of a 73 landcruiser or a short G should work.
Short cars also mean much better breakover angles at the same height.
Full size pickups and transporters are pretty much impossible to drive in the forest.
Other things, like ground clearance, tires, lights and so on are nice to have, but not a necessity. You can go just about everywhere with an old Munga - you'll just get there faster and more comfortable in a samurai or lada niva.
And you'll probably get stuck in a dodge ram...
>inb4 truckfags 
