/out/ - Outdoors » Thread #22557

[55 / 12 / ?]

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 21:43:03 No.22557 View View Reply Original Report

Quoted By: >>22650

Hi /out/.

I was wondering if anyone here hunts with a bow. I was thinking about starting next summer. I live in Finland and we can hunt all small game with bows including Roe Deer.
I've checked out some nice bows but I have yet to make up my mind on which to purchase (Advice very welcome)
Also I am very interested in making my own personal bow. If you guys have experience making hunting tier bows and arrows I'd really love to hear about it.

General bow hunting thread I guess.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 21:48:35 No.22599 Report

Quoted By: >>22630 >>22639 >>22669 >>22730

What starter bow would you recommend for someone interested in traditional bows (none of this compound shit)? I can pull 50-55 pounds btw so I'm not looking for a 30 lb pansy bow.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 21:52:29 No.22630 Report

Quoted By: >>22712

>>22599
compound=better sights=better aim=better chance of a fatal shot=less pain for the animal
confirmed for try hard

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 21:53:53 No.22639 Report

Quoted By: >>22712

>>22599
You should get a compound bow, they're more humane.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 21:55:06 No.22650 Report

Quoted By: >>22662

>>22557

this belongs in /k/

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 21:56:39 No.22662 Report

Quoted By: >>22667 >>22924

>>22650

Alright. Sorry.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 21:57:21 No.22667 Report

Quoted By:

>>22662
No, this thread is appropriate for /out/, don't apologize.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 21:57:33 No.22669 Report

Quoted By: >>22680 >>22731

>>22599
If you're a beginner, a 55lb traditional bow is not for you. start with the 30, develop technique, then build from there.

also why the hate for compounds

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 21:58:46 No.22680 Report

Quoted By:

>>22669
>also why the hate for compounds
They look like high tech pieces of equipment, some people don't like that.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:02:21 No.22712 Report

Quoted By: >>22756 >>22775 >>22937 >>30635

>>22630
>>22639
I want to hunt like men have for millennia. The skill it takes to operate a traditional bow is something I want to learn. Also, compound bows are finicky and not nearly as durable.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:04:12 No.22730 Report

Quoted By:

>>22599
Are you starting with traditional archery or starting with archery in general? Because I can assure you that someone that hasn't done any serious form of archery won't be able to pull 50lbs.

If you have done archery before you should still take it down, modern limbs work fucking miracles, traditional bows feel very different from target recurves so it's better to get adjusted at a lower poundage until you get the technique down.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:04:13 No.22731 Report

Quoted By: >>23670

>>22669
Like I said, I can pull and anchor a 55 no problem.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:05:39 No.22746 Report

Quoted By: >>22802

What sort of bow would be bet suited for rabbit hunting?

When I'm hiking I always see them in plenty and it would be really nice to have some roast rabbit while watching aurora borealis dance in the night sky.

Also has anyone made their own bow? How did it turn out? There is no set limit for the draw power on bows for hunting small game with the exception of the Roe Deer (50kg) However the arrows have to be deadly enough to kill when a good hit is achieved (Blunt arrows are permitted for most of the small game. Beaver and Roe Deer require specific broadhead arrows.)

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:07:01 No.22756 Report

Quoted By: >>22926

>>22712
I think you have some misconceptions of compounds. They are, of course easier, but finicky and not durable? that's some shit that the traditional guys like to claim.
I'm more afraid of traditionals breaking than i am my compounds.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:08:40 No.22775 Report

Quoted By: >>22926

>>22712
>compound bows are finicky and not nearly as durable.

Confirmed for never, ever having touched, seen, used or otherwise had anything to do with a traditional bow.

Sam !!/L2R955jdvX

Sam !!/L2R955jdvX Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:10:46 No.22789 Report

Quoted By: >>22813

My first bow was an Indian Deerslayer. It was a beat up pos, but I loved it and was Damn good with it. OP, learn the old ways if you wish, you can still hunt with great success with a long or recurve bow.

Sam !!/L2R955jdvX

Sam !!/L2R955jdvX Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:12:18 No.22802 Report

Quoted By: >>22813

>>22746
>>22746
Any bow with a 45# draw weight or higher.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:14:42 No.22813 Report

Quoted By: >>22882

>>22789
>>22802

Thanks for the info.
You wouldn't happen to have any insight in making bows yourself?

Ranger !/X0xZ2Pe2c

Ranger !/X0xZ2Pe2c Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:22:42 No.22882 Report

Quoted By: >>22891

>>22813
>http://poorfolkbows.com/

I followed this guide. Red oak flat bow, pulls around 50 lb.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:23:38 No.22891 Report

Quoted By:

>>22882

Awesome! Thanks!

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:24:48 No.22901 Report

Quoted By:

>50# bow

Am I the only one that uses 75#?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:27:56 No.22924 Report

Quoted By:

>>22662
That guy was a retard, this belongs in both places, just a place of overlap with these boards.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:27:59 No.22926 Report

Quoted By:

>>22756
>>22775
Whatever you guys want to believe.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:29:08 No.22937 Report

Quoted By: >>22969

>>22712
lolno, compound bows are better in almost every way. You've played too many games and and romanticized re-curve bows too much I think.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:33:01 No.22969 Report

Quoted By: >>23063

>>22937
>yfw the only game I play is the entire CS series
I'm not as irrational as to romanticize bows.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:39:09 No.23031 Report

Quoted By:

Get a classic yew longbow with a 100lb draw. You get a workout AND have fun!

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:42:29 No.23063 Report

Quoted By: >>23147 >>23148

>>22969
So let's hear what makes the traditional bow so superior. Since it's not just the romance of it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:51:44 No.23147 Report

Quoted By: >>23159

>>23063
>mfw no explanation

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:51:43 No.23148 Report

Quoted By:

>>23063
That depends on numerous factors. Modern hunting recurves have the advantage of being very light and easy to take down and store in your backpack. They are also much easier to maintain.

Full wood recurves and longs that aren't very cut at the arrow rest do take much more skill to shoot, but that is what makes them so fun. Learning to shoot instinctively isn't the most convenient or easier, but I feel that you gain more from the experience.

I would not call one kind superior to the other, but I feel that there is some distinct advantages to using non-compound bows.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO lowres.jpg, 190KiB, 761x1014

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:52:34 No.23154 Report

Quoted By: >>23263 >>23949

MAKING BOWS INCOMING

I've made a few bows in the three past years. I would highly recommend it. Posting pics of bows I made in order.

I learned everything I know from TradGang.com. The bowyer's bench section of the forums has a huge wealth of knowledge and skilled bowyers, and they are always helpful if you want to get started on making your own equipment. I have nothing but respect for that community of people.

This is my first bow. I learned how to make this one here: http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=002064

it shows you everything you need to know to get started on a basic board bow (read: cheap, easy to make, effective for short term). If you want to make a bow I would start here.

More to come.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1362453990079.gif, 2MiB, 413x192

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:52:52 No.23159 Report

Quoted By: >>23200 >>23355

>>23147
>mfw I spent the time to right you a decent response.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 22:56:40 No.23200 Report

Quoted By: >>23246

>>23159
>mfw explanation was shit
>Take down, light, store
Modern implementations, invalid for old-style bows
>need more skill/more fun
You're new to this, you don't know what is more fun and what needs more skill. you also don't have skill, so it'll be easier for you to get agitated and discouraged

>distinct advantages
>which pale in comparison to compounds

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 23:01:01 No.23246 Report

Quoted By: >>23260

>>23200
>implying that those modern features disqualify it as being traditional
>implying I haven't done plenty of archery with both types in my life

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 23:02:10 No.23260 Report

Quoted By: >>23294 >>23858

>>23246
> I was thinking about starting next summer.

I hope you are not OP

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 23:02:41 No.23263 Report

Quoted By: >>23286 >>23949

>>23154

The process of making a board bow is pretty simple. The the tools required are fairly entry level and if you know someone that is into woodworking if you don't have the equipment yourself, you can usually borrow time to start out with. The basic process goes:

Before you start: choose a board. I chose a red oak board as per 4est's guide, and spent 30 minutes digging for the proper grain pattern on the board in the lumber yard.

1. Thin the limbs down to proper thickness.
2. Cut the limbs to shape (triangular)
3. Glue on handle, limb recurves and tip overlays if you want them
4. Cut notches for string
5. Put it on the tillering stick and start tillering. Tillering is the process of removing the material from the belly of the bow (the side on the inside of the bend, facing towards you when you shoot) to make the limbs bend evenly. You want the limbs to bend smoothly with now stiff areas. The tips will be slightly stiffer than the working part of the limb. The top limb should bend just a little bit more than the bottom as this fixes behavior of the bow for two-under shooting styles, but that is dependent on the user and can change. Make sure to use a tillering jig to expedite the process (do a search on tradgang; it'll show up). You tiller increasing inch by inch, checking and removing material until you get to desired draw length.
6. Shaping the handle and sanding to finish
7. Backing the bow. Sometimes on board bows or selfbows (bows made from staves) you want to back it. This means to put something like paper, linen, or snakeskin on the back of the bow (opposite the belly). This prevents splinters from lifting.
8. Finishing. Apply appropriate finish to the bow.

Picture related shows my second bow I made on a tillering stick. I made this bow for tradgang's 2011 bow swap; bowyers signed up to make bows and ship them to one another. It was a really great learning process and we all benefited from seeing each other's work

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO lowres.jpg, 284KiB, 761x1014

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 23:05:39 No.23286 Report

Quoted By: >>23357 >>23949

>>23263

You can see that the left limb is bending slightly more in that picture. To fix that I would remove material from the right limb evenly.

The second bow was finished and backed; I painted mourning cloak butterflies on it as it was heading to montana in the trade and the state butterfly of montana is the mourning cloak.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 23:06:11 No.23294 Report

Quoted By:

>>23260
I'm not. I'm the first commenter.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 23:15:03 No.23355 Report

Quoted By: >>23360

>>23159
Still the first to start this faggotry.

>Starter bow
>Implying

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 23:15:19 No.23357 Report

Quoted By: >>23443 >>23949

>>23286

I now ventured into the world of fiberglass recurves. I asked around and concluded that the best way to make fiberglass bows to start out with (for me) is to make one from a kit. Bingham's bow kits are well regarded as good products, and I have had no trouble at all with them. I have made two so far, and am starting on a third. The process for a fiberglass bow is more involved. The kit provides an instructional video and documentation to make the process fairly straightforward, but technical skill is still required to a larger extent than the previous builds.

I started out with making the form. This will be used to form the limbs in an oven to set the epoxy. I bought a takedown kit, so I only have to make half a form. This was done with provided blueprints and plywood screwed together on a bandsaw. It is important to make sure the form is square, so I took the block over to a drill press mounted with a drum sander to make sure there would be no twist in the limb when it is made. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of this process.

Once that was made, I was able to build a heat box. The heat box is essentially a box with insulation and light bulbs, which is regulated by a temperature sensor to maintain a constant heat with which the epoxy will set. The limbs themselves are comprised of fiberglass, a layer of flat wood, a layer of tapered wood becoming thinner toward the ends of the bow, and another layer of fiberglass. These are expoxied, then put on the form which presses them against itself, squeezing out the excess epoxy and helping it set.

Pic related is the first finished recurve.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 23:15:51 No.23360 Report

Quoted By:

>>23355
Stay mad.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 23:24:58 No.23443 Report

Quoted By: >>23537 >>23949

>>23357

The limbs themselves are now made. The next part is to shape the limbs and the riser (handle). The limbs must be cut with an appropriate bandsaw blade as fiberglass is very harsh on blades. these are cut to rough shape and then brought to finished profile with the drum sander chucked in a drill press. The riser itself is roughed out with a band saw, and then worked with rasps/shapers and sanded to finish. The important part of this process is installing the limb locking hardware. metal threaded inserts are epoxied into the two faces of the riser that are set at angles and must be aligned well with the corresponding holes of the limbs. Taking time to do that right will ensure that tillering goes easier as limb twist will hopefully be less of a problem. When you can, tiller the bow. Tillering with this is different than board bows as most of the work is done already by the form. I won't go into detail on this, but you can read about tillering glass bows if you want to know more.

Limb tips are put on next, and the bow is coming close to being finished. At this point, I like to shoot it a few times to see if I like how the grip is coming and make appropriate changes then.

Sanding and finishing comes next, and there are many choices for finishes. I didn't do a good job on the first one, but I like tru-oil for this. There are so many choices, though, this part is personal preference.

I'm not going through every little detail here, but I'm trying to give you a sense of what's involved in each process.

Pic related shows first glass recurve agian

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 23:34:17 No.23537 Report

Quoted By: >>23813 >>23897 >>23949

>>23443

Now if you want to get fancy about it, there's a lot you can do. Laminations are a good start, and that's where I went next. This is the bow I made for the 2012 bow swap. Look how much I improved over one year of this; the previous year was a board bow, and this year is a glass recurve (a note on the swap: nobody cares if it's only a board bow. Everyone participating knows that everyone else is going to do the very best they can do to make their recipient pleased. Not a single person that received their bow was upset with what they got). The thing to take out of this is that you improve with each and every bow you make, and in very large and visible ways.

Anyway, something as simple as laminations can bring life to a bow's aesthetics. I also opted for clear glass, and I will never go back after seeing how pretty it can get with the wood underneath it.

There's something to be said here about strings. You need them. You can make them. Your first one will suck. You will make more. They will not suck. They will work, and that should suffice.
Or you can buy them. They will work. They will cost more.

The same can be said for arrows, too, and I could tell you how to make them, but that's for another day.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 23:47:25 No.23670 Report

Quoted By: >>23732

>>22731
Not for long enough to get a good practice session in. Believe me, you want to start around 30-35lbs. I have a buddy who is a champion powerlifter that hunts with a 50 lb recurve. He can pull and hold a 130 lb English warbow, but it's always better to go light with traditional equipment.

It's a totally different game with a compound. Whereas my hunting recurve is 40 lbs, my compound is set at 90. Dat mechanical advantage.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 19 Mar 2013 23:53:52 No.23732 Report

Quoted By:

>>23670

I wouldn't go as low as 30. I would recommend 35-40 for a beginner (dependent on weight and age. I assume it's a 18-22 year old male) as the arrow flight pattern retains a noticeably flatter trajectory at 20 yards, a pretty standard distance compared to 30. the extra seven or so pounds makes a difference, but to each their own. If at all possible I would advise trying out different weight bows to see what you like best when picking them. Most (good) archery shops will carry bows and let you try them out a few shots. See what you're comfortable with in terms of grip, weight of the bow, and draw weight.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 20 Mar 2013 00:03:29 No.23813 Report

Quoted By: >>24421

>>23537
Please, Anon! Arrows! Your fellow anons depend upon you!

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 20 Mar 2013 00:08:19 No.23858 Report

Quoted By: >>24489

>>23260

I'm just wondering why people get so angry at Traditional VS Compound bows instead of sharing tips and tricks of the trade with each other.

I myself am very curious about how you get in to shooting range by simply "stalking" and if any anons use dogs when they hunt with bows.

OP

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 20 Mar 2013 00:12:35 No.23897 Report

Quoted By: >>24421 >>24437

>>23537

Anon I'm curious, Do you make bows for order? How much would a anonmade bow set me back?

Anonymous

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Anonymous Wed 20 Mar 2013 00:20:51 No.23949 Report

Quoted By:

>>23154
>>23263
>>23286
>>23357
>>23443
>>23537

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 20 Mar 2013 00:43:44 No.24130 Report

Quoted By:

Is the performance difference between a good modern recurve and a compound so huge? I've been wanting to go out rabbit hunting with my dog and would love to do it with a bow. Do you run a bigger risk of tainting or destroying the meat with a bow? With a rifle you can pretty well just aim for the head.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Wed 20 Mar 2013 01:18:46 No.24421 Report

Quoted By:

>>23897

No, I haven't made any bows for order yet. I still don't consider my bows of good enough quality to sell. That and there's liability that I would like to work out. I consider it more of a hobby at this point.

>>23813

Arrows will come later; within the year. I'll probably end up posting this again as I saved it as a copypasta when people ask about making bows. Stick around and I'll get to making arrows eventually. I just don't have enough pictures of arrows in their not-complete state.

Pic related; a dozen I fletched a while ago.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 20 Mar 2013 01:20:11 No.24437 Report

Quoted By: >>27427

>>23897

I should add that a typical bow of that caliber would set you back roughly 350+ dollars for the last recurve I posted; the one with the laminations in the riser.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 20 Mar 2013 01:29:06 No.24489 Report

Quoted By: >>26562

>>23858

Stalking and still hunting are effective but take years of practice. There's a few books on the matter and they go into detail far better than me. The best that I've come across is by Asbell, and while the writing is typical of what you would think an old guy that loves bowhunting would be, the content doesn't lie. It's all about going slow, and knowing wind direction and controlling your scent. The idea is that you spot a deer before it can detect you. If you can't do that, you won't be an effective stalker/still hunter. It becomes difficult when winds change directions on you and when you can't predict where the deer typically will be. As such, if you want to stalk an area, it is easiest when you have sound knowledge of the land. That said, there's nothing stopping you from applying this technique to a new place as well.

Typically, however, your efforts on the ground will be less fruitful than a treestand, but some people prefer to hunt from the ground. I will say that it's a hell of a rush to even see a deer and start following/creeping up on it, even though I've never been successful at taking a deer this method. I got to the point of drawing on one, but my arrow nocked on my bow and made a sound which alerted the deer. I didn't get to take a shot, but I think that was my favorite day out hunting two years ago.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 20 Mar 2013 06:33:23 No.26562 Report

Quoted By:

>>24489
Clean bow kills are so fucking boss.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 20 Mar 2013 10:41:08 No.27427 Report

Quoted By:

>>24437

When you feel confident enough to sell your work please post here. I want a genuine anon bow.
350+ is totally acceptable.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 20 Mar 2013 21:15:32 No.30635 Report

Quoted By:

>>22712
I never understood this mentality. People hold similar views for lots of things, too. They seem to pick an arbitrary point in history and decide that that is the "traditional" period and should be replicated.

If you want to "hunt like men have for millennia" why not sharpen up a stick?

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