>>2422438I'll grant you that it's important to know the difference between tendon pain and muscle pain. And I'll state this principle for newbies
BEWARE OF THE FULL CRIMP. It's a useful tool but it has to be applied judiciously. Understand that there's differential loading of your fingers and their structures depending on your grip, and the full crimp focuses force on your a2 pulley. Overgripping in general is bad, but so is undergripoing actually (i developed tendinopathy by under gripping. Strive for symmetrical loading through your wrist.
That being said, many experts seem to know nothing about fixing climbing tendinopathy because they don't appreciate the connection between your fingertips and your shoulder. In physical therapy, there are certified hand therapists who actually look at the whole arm due to this connection. Most therapists will be like "oh your elbow hurts, do this wrist and tricep exercise" they never link it to the whole movement of pulling through your fingers.
For me and many others, climbing training revolves around avoiding injury. Even climbing with perfect technique in the rest of your body can still cause issues in the hand and wrist - it's very hard to notice from the outside if a climber is pronating or supinating his wrist too much. One indicator of this is examining the callouses on your fingers - extra callous on the pinky for me indicates medial elbow tendinitis & ulnar neuropathy, whereas if you use your index finger more i expect lateral elbow pain/brachial nerve.
All this to say, none of this knowledge comes from being able to climb harder or how long I've been climbing, so the no hangboard before x grade thing doesn't work that way. It's knowledge, not skill
