/out/ - Outdoors » Thread #255136

[316 / 47 / ?]

Homegrowmen (Farming and Gardening) Thread #8

Anonymous Tue 14 Jan 2014 14:56:11 No.255136 View View Reply Original Report

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 14 Jan 2014 14:56:34 No.255137 Report

Quoted By: >>258594

>>255136
US Farm Income and Taxes,
http://www.hobbyfarms.com/farm-marketing-and-management/farm-income-taxes-14991.aspx

US Grants and Loans for Small Farms,
http://www.usda.gov/wps/portal/usda/usdahome?navid=GRANTS_LOANS
http://afsic.nal.usda.gov/farms-and-community/grants-and-loans-farmers
http://www.nal.usda.gov/afsic/pubs/funding.shtml

Managing Risks on Your Small Farm,
http://agmarketing.extension.psu.edu/begfrmrs/MangRiskSmllFrm.pdf

Chicken info and forum,
http://www.backyardchickens.com

Rabbit guide
http://thepiratebay.sx/torrent/7884798/Rabbit_Production_Manual

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 14 Jan 2014 16:51:55 No.255173 Report

Quoted By: >>255175 >>255192

Can anyone here give me some books to read? PirateBay is blocked, and I like having a hard copy in my hand.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 14 Jan 2014 16:52:59 No.255175 Report

Quoted By: >>255191

>>255173
On gardening in general, preferably fruit/vegatable gardening.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 14 Jan 2014 17:32:13 No.255191 Report

Quoted By: >>255193

>>255175
Depending on where you live, the Sunset Western Gardening manual is a great resource. Otherwise, for basic stuff, just google "how to grow ______". Organic Gardening magazine's website has great stuff.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 14 Jan 2014 17:34:58 No.255192 Report

Quoted By: >>255194

>>255173
If you're in the UK, any of the RHS books are worth getting.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 14 Jan 2014 17:36:02 No.255193 Report

Quoted By:

>>255191
aw, any books that are more directed towards the British then?
But yeah Google is always a good idea.
Thank you.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 14 Jan 2014 17:37:07 No.255194 Report

Quoted By: >>255209

>>255192
Oh, just saw this.
Thanks man.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 14 Jan 2014 19:00:47 No.255209 Report

Quoted By:

>>255194
You can often buy them as a set. Drop a few hints if your birthday is near.

The RHS guides helped me massively before the internet was a thing and I still refer to them now.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 14 Jan 2014 20:46:29 No.255237 Report

Quoted By: >>255527 >>255640

>How are you germinating and where did you get the seeds? The best method for pommie seeds is cuttings but the seeds should germinate fairly easily with proper preparation.
I've tried putting them in soil and gently misting them. No success as they molded over within a day or two.
Right now I stuck about twenty seeds in between a moist paper towel and put it inside a plastic bag and sprayed a bit of water in it to keep it humid.

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g Wed 15 Jan 2014 06:36:28 No.255527 Report

Quoted By: >>255640

>>255237

You want the soil to be damp but not nearly damp enough for mold for fungus to grow. Pommie seeds like a lot of heat and don't like wild temp swings to keeping it on a heat mat with just a little dampm well draining soil should have more success. When were the seeds collected, and from where? that can have an impact too. We had the best germination rate from year-old seeds from our own tree kept at 85F on a heat mat.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 15 Jan 2014 12:58:26 No.255640 Report

Quoted By:

>>255527
>>255237
I was going to recommend aging the seeds. Basically, you let the seeds dry out completely and store them for a month or longer. Then try to germinate them. Some seeds have a residue on them that inhibits them from germinating right away. It breaks down fairly quickly though. I assume it is intended to keep the seed from germinating while still inside the fruit hanging on the tree. The residue may be chemical in nature or just a membrane to help prevent oxygen and/or water from getting inside. Seeds need moisture and oxygen to germinate. Some types of seeds need to be lightly scored on their outer shell before attempting to germinate. Others need a brief acid bath or hard scoring.

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g

cidebe success

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g Wed 15 Jan 2014 13:15:55 No.255648 Report

Quoted By: >>256067 >>257494

5am here. I am going to go out as soon as the sun hits and start cleaning up my garden area and prepping it. I am going to try winter-sowing some peas along the fence and use old fish tanks upside down as mini greenhouses, hopefully it works and they sprout and don't die. We aren't expecting an solid freezes but are expecting temps ~35-36F at night this week.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 16 Jan 2014 04:38:18 No.256067 Report

Quoted By: >>256092

>>255648
Prop the tanks up on one side about an inch for daytime temps. Otherwise, there's a chance the soil will warm up so much as to trigger the peas sprouting. If they do sprout now and you still have a good bit of winter left in your area, they could get zapped from the cold. A covered piece of ground like that can get up to 110F in full sun and put a lot of heat into the soil. It does depend on several local factors or course. Also, you can't let plants get too hot in something like that if you are actually growing them in there. It can be as bad as getting frosted.

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g Thu 16 Jan 2014 05:35:59 No.256092 Report

Quoted By: >>256278

>>256067

I thought the purpose of winter sowing is to actually get the plants to sprout early? I was planning on leaving a few inches off the ground during the day with black soda bottles of water so it'll release heat during the day and be big enough to get a jump start for spring. Is it too early to do winter sowing?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 16 Jan 2014 05:54:09 No.256103 Report

Quoted By: >>256106 >>256281

Just my opinion but I think winter sowing is so the plants have time to establish roots. Some plants like raspberries require stratification which mimics cold winter weather to crack the seed shell.

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g Thu 16 Jan 2014 06:13:13 No.256106 Report

Quoted By:

>>256103

That makes sense. I forgot to plant my tulips this year. They're still siting in my fridge. Maybe I'll do this for them since I know they're more cold tolerant.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 16 Jan 2014 16:08:21 No.256261 Report

Quoted By: >>256281 >>256501

I'd like to thank the homegrowman in the last thread who told me to warm my peppers.
After a few days in a warm cupboard the first few sprouts are popping up.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 16 Jan 2014 16:28:23 No.256278 Report

Quoted By: >>256281

>>256092
>I thought the purpose of winter sowing is to actually get the plants to sprout early?

Correct, as well as getting seeds to chill and sprout properly or get plants to grow better roots, it depends on the plant. The thing is, that you normally don't cover them for this purpose. They will sprout on their own and occasionally you may need to cover them with something one night to prevent frost damage, depending on what you are growing. But, if you cover them and heat them up so they sprout far earlier than normal, the container they are housed in can still get too cold to sustain them at night and they can die, depending on what you are growing.

>Is it too early to do winter sowing?

It really depends on where you live. For instance, where I live it is Zone 5b and 20F outside. Occasionally days get 60F then nights of 30F. There's frost and snow on the ground. If I were to early sow right now, it'd be fine, but if I were to cover them, they'd sprout too early and die at night or on a cold day. Unless I added some sort of heat to maintain a minimum temperature for them.

For my area, I can safely sow seeds on April 1st or set out plants that are covered from frost (bedsheet) and unheated. Up to a month before that time I can set out plants that are covered with glass and be unheated. Prior to that I'd need to supply some sort of heating system for them.

continued....stupid 2,000 character post limits...

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 16 Jan 2014 16:32:41 No.256281 Report

Quoted By: >>264261

>>256278
continued....
Again, it also depends on what you are growing. Kale for instance laughs at frost, freezing temps, and snow. I've even had it easily survive negative temperatures, just not for weeks on end. If you try any of this with tomatoes, you'd need to do it later so temps never fall below 60F.

The soda bottles are a good idea, so are stones. Anything to add thermal mass and keep temps more even inside. As far as peas go, they are a cool weather crop and can normally handle some low temps without a problem. I recommend you experiment. Plant some seeds in various ways and see which ones do well and which ones don't. Then you'll have more knowledge than anyone can give you online.

>>256261
I think a couple anons did that, you're welcome. Seeds love warmth and peppers love it even more. Also, the hotter the pepper the more heat they like. If you want hot peppers to be as spicy as they can, give them more heat and high humidity. Also, peppers are hotter when green and less hot when fully ripe.

>>256103
Yeah, some plant seeds you need to put in the fridge or freezer for a month or more to get them to sprout. Some need an acid bath to mimic a bird's digestive system. Some need scoring of their shell. Plants that you set in soil int he winter do better because they can establish a better root system during that time. When planted in the spring, they are focusing on growing foliage, flowers, and fruit instead of just growing roots.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 16 Jan 2014 17:32:51 No.256290 Report

Quoted By: >>256340

So I started a hot compost pile back in November, zone 5b here. Made from maple leaves, spent homebrew grain, bunny poo, apples/all kinds of veggies, and egg shells. It heated up nicely and I was able to turn it a few times. It cooked for about 3 weeks before it got covered in snow and freezing outside.

I planned to till it into the soil as soon as it was warm enough. Would this be a problem if it isn't "done" yet? I just went out and dug into it....it started steaming.

Forgive me, I have never added anything to my soil before. Perk of the midwest I guess.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 16 Jan 2014 20:14:17 No.256340 Report

Quoted By: >>256363

>>256290
The biggest concern is the amount of nitrogen and other fertilizers in the compost. If it is too high, it can cause root burn. Root burn isn't heat related. It happens when there are more minerals outside the root cell wall than there are inside it and water starts getting sucked out of the root cell as a result.

Turning the compost will help it get more oxygen to aerobic bacteria which will break the compost down much faster. Turning it 2 times a week is the max you can do it and have any effect, but once a week if quite fine.

As for how hot it is temperature-wise, if it is steaming and a shovel head comes out of it fairly warm, don't use it without diluting it. Otherwise, the heat itself can cause harm to plants. In regards to being too "hot" as nutrients are concerned, rabbit manure it quite hot and needs at least a winter's worth of aging before using. I would recommend a ratio of 4 to 1 for mixing rabbit manure. 4 parts dirt and/or other well composted materials to 1 part rabbit manure. It is rather high in nitrogen.

The other materials in your compost mixture seem to be short-aging and should be fairly fine. The more unrecognizable things are the better. In the end, it should look like rich potting soil.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO seeds 002.jpg, 117KiB, 980x735

Anonymous Thu 16 Jan 2014 20:56:30 No.256363 Report

Quoted By: >>256378

>>256340
The only things I can recognize now are the leaves. The pile started out as a cubic yard, and I've got a lot of ground to spread it around. So hopefully it should work out.

I'm going all out this year. I've been getting seeds from people on the internet over the past couple months, just had to pay postage. I'm out like $10 for this big pile. There's like a hundred different things here. Gonna try for them all.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 16 Jan 2014 21:50:53 No.256378 Report

Quoted By:

>>256363
Spreading it out over a large area and tilling it in should be fine.

That's a very nice piles of seeds. Don't plant them all at once. Some need staggered planting where you plant new ones once every two weeks, like carrots for instance. Others, you just need backups of so if disease hits the first crop you can hand more on hand.

You have enough stuff there to plan out a nice companion planted garden. Give this a look,

http://farmtopreschool.org/pdf/2.3_CompanionPlanting_Chart.pdf

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 17 Jan 2014 02:18:08 No.256476 Report

Quoted By: >>256592 >>256709

If my compost isn't decomposing as fast as I would expect it to, could it be due to airflow? It's just an upside down garbage bin with the bottom cut out.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 17 Jan 2014 04:20:46 No.256501 Report

Quoted By: >>256580 >>256709

>>256261
As a further to this, now I've got some seedlings, I'm gonna want to be lighting them right away.
None of the windows in my house get more than a token amount of light at the moment, and I have no garden to speak of, but in the spirit of British doggedness I was thinking of using flouro strip lights. I was looking at a 2ft 2700 lumen set up.

So the question then to the homegrowmen, is that enough to sustain a tray of seedlings until spring/summer when I might see some sun? How many seedlings would that sustain maximum?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO seedlings.png, 2MiB, 1295x755

Anonymous Fri 17 Jan 2014 08:42:41 No.256580 Report

Quoted By: >>256709

>>256501
Pic very much related. After their time in the cupboard they're looking a little yellow

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 17 Jan 2014 09:54:07 No.256592 Report

Quoted By: >>256826

>>256476
Maybe. Are there holes all through the garbage bin to allow for airflow?
Is the garbage bin lifted off the ground?

I mean how does it feel? (warm, watery, cool?)

How much food to leaves to paper is there? (ratio)

When did you start it?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 17 Jan 2014 16:46:04 No.256709 Report

Quoted By:

>>256476
>could it be due to airflow?

Yes. Also heat. If it is outside in the cold winter, it'll slow down a bit. If it has lots of manure in it, the heat produced by the bacteria should be enough to make things move along fast, providing there's enough oxygen. Think of the oxygen being the fuel for a fire to keep the compost warm.

>>256501
>>256580
I use a cardboard reflector. For windows in direct sunlight you can use white paint. For windows that have only a little direct sunlight (4 hours or less) you can use aluminum foil as the reflector (use half water & half wood/elmers glue mixture to glue the foil to the cardboard). If cardboard looks ugly, paint it or wallpaper it to make it look nice.

You may notice your plants getting, "leggy/spindly". This can be from 2 things. 1, lack of light, 2 lack of moving air. A small fan blowing on the seedlings will help strengthen them. They will be shorter and stalkier.

If the cotyledon (seedling leaves) remain yellow, they need more light.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO goodbad.png, 297KiB, 831x383

Anonymous Fri 17 Jan 2014 21:14:37 No.256796 Report

Quoted By: >>256876

so i have this log
>not this log but it looks just like it

would this be a good log or a bad log to grow mushrooms on, if a bad log, what should i look for?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 17 Jan 2014 22:30:54 No.256826 Report

Quoted By: >>256876 >>257055 >>257129

>>256592
I'm sure its due to the airflow as I didn't punch any holes into it. I'll definitely get my drill out when the ice around the can melts. It does feel slightly warm when I put my hand inside, but only in warmer days due to the cold. I started it around August.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 18 Jan 2014 00:49:55 No.256876 Report

Quoted By: >>256900 >>257055

>>256796
Bad.

Mushrooms need 3 things, fresh wood, moisture, and no competition.

You need to cut a limb/tree down or be lucky to get one freshly cut/fallen. Storm damaged stuff is great fyi. Old logs are dead, dried out, or infected with other fungi that will only eat your fungi and/or out compete it.

My best advice is to buy or make some plug spawn and keep kits of that going and on hand. Then when there's a bad storm and there's lots of storm damaged trees you can drive around with a crosscut saw looking for downed limbs and trees (4" to 6" in diameter) that match the species needed for your fungi. Ask a property owner if you can have some of their downed stuff, most are cool with it. sometimes you can catch the local government workers cutting it up with chainsaws. They usually give you anything you want and may even help you load it up if you have a truck handy. Just ask them to cut it to the length you need.

>>256826
About 4.5-5 months? It'd probably be cooling down by now and fairly inert I'd think. Churn it up and if pretty much everything is unrecognizable, it is good to go.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 18 Jan 2014 02:24:24 No.256900 Report

Quoted By: >>257132

>>256876
alright ill give it back to the guy i got it from tomorrow and see if he has anything 1-3 weeks old
or if we can go into his back field and cut some down fresh

(growing shiitake might grow some oyster's to but i've never had them so idk

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 18 Jan 2014 12:58:06 No.257055 Report

Quoted By:

>>256826
August?!
Well it should look like dirt by now.

How does it smell? like dirt or rot?

Do you stir it like this person said.>>256876

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g Sat 18 Jan 2014 16:56:18 No.257129 Report

Quoted By: >>257132

>>256826

Try chicken wire tied into a loop next time, might help. I just finished building a tiny square one from wood and chicken wire that was free.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 18 Jan 2014 17:01:41 No.257132 Report

Quoted By:

>>256900
1 week or less is best. Past 1 week and things can really lose their moisture and their natural sugars start to break down. Though, it all depends on how the log is exposed to the elements. The freshest logs will have anti-fungal phytochemicals still in them, but those break down quickly and won't affect your spawn since they are not yet branching out into the wood for it to matter.

For oyster you can use pretty much and cellulose substrate so long as it is sterilized first. Have lots of junk mail? Shred it, boil it, and inoculate it with the oyster. Have lots of coffee grounds? Oyster fucking loves coffee grounds!

>>257129
>chicken wire

Seconding this. Having it open to more air so more oxygen and more insects can get to it will mean a much faster breakdown into compost. It is great for small amounts that don't take much time and effort to turn. Half-filled barrels on casters that you can roll on their side to churn the contents are really nice too since there's basically no work in turning the compost. They just need covers for their holes while you roll them.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 18 Jan 2014 17:09:26 No.257134 Report

Quoted By: >>257137 >>257209 >>257327

A couple of months ago I bought one of those freezer toilets. So, in about a year I'm going to have a literal shitload of decomposed shit and toilet paper.

I've heard that some edible plants and tobacco catch a nasty taste if they are fertilized with carnivore manure. So, I'm asking if someone knows any plants that can deal with that stuff.

Or should I just dump it somewhere or spread it around the lawn or something?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 18 Jan 2014 17:26:34 No.257137 Report

Quoted By: >>257176 >>257209 >>257587

>>257134
>one of those freezer toilets.
wat? care to explain?
But in any case, carnivore and human waste especially is pretty nasty
I wouldnt put that near any plants meant for consumption
Just spreading it around would smell awful and spread germs everywhere, id either put it on a seperate compost pile with lots of coarse stuff to allow for aeration or just burn it

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 18 Jan 2014 19:41:27 No.257176 Report

Quoted By: >>257209 >>257327 >>257587

>>257137
>wat? care to explain?
It's a toilet seat which requires no sewers. It uses electricity to freeze your shit, which you then take to a compost. Those things are pretty expensive considering they are only toilet seat-shaped freezers, but sometimes it's the cheapest option.

>Just spreading it around would smell awful
It's not going to smell after it's been decomposing for a year, or so I've been told. But I have also been told that it's not suitable for some plants even after that.

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g Sat 18 Jan 2014 20:35:23 No.257209 Report

Quoted By: >>257225

>>257134
>>257137
>>257176

..w-why not just shit into a chest freezer or something....

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 18 Jan 2014 20:58:56 No.257225 Report

Quoted By:

>>257209
A chest freezer would take a lot more space. I would have to keep it in the living room, so...

The freezer toilet also has a nice 20litersomething bucket which holds a decomposing bag, so its quite simple: shit in the bag until it's full, then take it outside to the compost.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 19 Jan 2014 00:44:21 No.257327 Report

Quoted By:

>>257134
Human feces needs to be composted for a full entire year before using on vegetable plants. This gets rid of all pathogens and any medications that may be in the manure. This means you start timing the aging process after the last bit of feces is added to your container and after it is fully thawed.

If you do this, it will be find to use as you would any other manure compost.

>>257176
>It's not going to smell after it's been decomposing for a year, or so I've been told.

Correct, it'll be rich soil then.

>But I have also been told that it's not suitable for some plants even after that.

Check out, "The Humanure Handbook," and read up on it.

Have you ever considered making a methane biogas reactor? You can make methane for cooking or fuel and high nitrogen fertilizer at the same time.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 19 Jan 2014 01:09:36 No.257330 Report

Quoted By:

>not simply shitting in a barrel full of dirt
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3V5f5tFtJMM
The dirt is part of the compost mixture and removes excess moisture.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Kaze.no.Tani.no.Nausicaä.fu (...).jpg, 1MiB, 2595x1541

Anonymous Sun 19 Jan 2014 03:34:52 No.257383 Report

Quoted By: >>257428 >>257430

Hello /out/ first time posting on this board. When I was in Japan I picked up this Ohm shell from Nausicaa, it came with seeds and a small thing of what I assume was fertilizer of some kind and you are supposed to grow them in the shell, seemed like a really cool idea to me but the seeds and fertilizer got confiscated at customs. What should I grow in it? something like from the movie would be cool but with preferably less spores.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 5177d93e3c01a_8570b.jpg, 59KiB, 600x491

Anonymous Sun 19 Jan 2014 06:09:23 No.257428 Report

Quoted By: >>257430 >>257451

>>257383
It looks like some sort of grass seed or lily family plant seed (onions, garlic, etc). The other style they made uses kaiware (daikon) seeds.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 5012319012a47_8570b.jpg, 12KiB, 289x290

Anonymous Sun 19 Jan 2014 06:14:44 No.257430 Report

Quoted By: >>257451

>>257428
>>257383
Link to the other style:

http://loveghibli.ecrater.com/p/15597319/planter-pot-seed-neo-coal

Your style:

http://loveghibli.ecrater.com/p/17827422/2-left-mini-planter-pot-seed

And, yes it is grass seed for yours, as said in this link of other neat ones,

http://www.zoo-net.com/garden1.htm

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1376351584590.png, 481KiB, 1152x1332

Anonymous Sun 19 Jan 2014 07:44:04 No.257451 Report

Quoted By: >>257512

>>257428
>>257430
Hey Thanks for the info. I appreciate it. I like the look of the Daikon a bit better so I guess I'll go have a look and see if I can find some seeds next time I'm out. I kinda wish I had gotten the bigger one now so I could grow some fancier stuff in it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 19 Jan 2014 12:21:29 No.257494 Report

Quoted By:

>>255648
The fishtank thing has worked for me in the past with tomatoes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 19 Jan 2014 13:49:38 No.257512 Report

Quoted By: >>257565

>>257451
Keep in mind that daikon can get massive so only keeping their sprouts in there would be best. They can actually break the container they get so big.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 19 Jan 2014 15:36:49 No.257565 Report

Quoted By: >>257588 >>257760

>>257512
Yeah I was wondering about that. I just thought they must not grow if the pot is too small. Is there a way to keep them as sprouts? Or would I just pull them out before they grow too big? I was having a look to see if I could answer my own question but I just kept ending up on cannabis growing forums. I guess it doesn't really have to be Daikon, anything that would fill it out and look kind of overgrown would be nice. Thanks again for the help, most boards would have told me to fuck off and lurk some more by now but I figure you guys don't get so much traffic as to become jaded like other boards.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 19 Jan 2014 16:38:21 No.257587 Report

Quoted By:

>>257137
>>257176
i have used all types of manures(including my own) and theyre just fine after they break down, no scent or taste of shit in crops
just make sure its fully composted before you use it

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 19 Jan 2014 16:39:39 No.257588 Report

Quoted By:

>>257565
depending on the type of sprout you can just chop it as you go

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 19 Jan 2014 23:19:30 No.257760 Report

Quoted By: >>257895

>>257565
You'd need to buy a bunch of seeds and change out the plants from time to time. The grass will be fine just getting a trim, but the diakon will grow and grow or die.

Take a look into various miniature plants used for Japanese Kokedama and Bonsai Saikei styles. Those use mosses, tiny ferns, and low-growing succulents like those in the "Sedum" family.

While some things may not fit the style of those in the movie, their small size makes up for that and pretty much anything growing out of it will be good. lol

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 20 Jan 2014 03:23:40 No.257895 Report

Quoted By:

>>257760
Alright cool, much appreciated. Thanks again.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO image.jpg, 1MiB, 2048x1536

Anonymous Tue 21 Jan 2014 00:44:39 No.258362 Report

Quoted By: >>258367 >>258445 >>258571

So I'm starting up my garden again for the year, but have a couple questions. If I wanted to fertilize the soil, I can go ahead and do so now if I wanted to plant in early spring right? Also, I am having some issues with a type of grass that keeps growing in my garden area. It grows as a strawberry would(I forget what that is called) and it is annoying as all hell. Is there something I can do to keep it at bay, or is disciplined maintainence the only option? Pic very related, it's the small plot I use.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 21 Jan 2014 01:21:28 No.258367 Report

Quoted By: >>258370

>>258362
take pics of the plants for me? not sure what you're talking about theres tons of different plants and some can be really hard to get rid of

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO image.jpg, 1MiB, 2048x1536

Anonymous Tue 21 Jan 2014 01:30:38 No.258370 Report

Quoted By: >>258445 >>258586 >>258589

>>258367
Not sure if this is the best picture. I tried getting the actual blades of grass from it.

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g Tue 21 Jan 2014 04:41:53 No.258445 Report

Quoted By:

>>258362
>>258370

If you have alittle time to spare, you can get a bunch of cardboard boxes, a tarp, etc. Anything to fully cover the area that grass and light cannot get through, and the cover it and weight down with rocks. Eventually the existing plants will die and that will prevent the rhizomes or suckers from spreading. Consider placing 9-12" thick border around the plot. 2x4's will work. Then just pull off any plants enroaching on the border.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 21 Jan 2014 14:17:18 No.258571 Report

Quoted By: >>258587

>>258362
Just till it well and cover it completely. Everything will die except seeds. Weeds aren't really that much of a problem. You should always weed your garden once a week at least. The problem is a lot of gardeners flip out when they see weeds coming up all the time. It makes about as much sense as flipping out because it rains or snows. The only weed you really need to worry about is kudzu. It is one of the only ones that grows so fast that you actually need to eradicate it as quickly as possible or it'll take over everything in only a couple days.

I don't mind weeds that much. I till the garden before planting and mulch it during planting. Growing crops close together also help prevent weeds once your plants are filling out and blocking the sun for weed seedlings. I still go through and pull weeds here and there from time to time.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 21 Jan 2014 15:21:14 No.258586 Report

Quoted By:

>>258370
looks kinda like crabgrass to me, also some "weeds" fix nitrogen so not all are bad to leave in the garden(only if theyre shading out or taking over the root space of other plants)

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 21 Jan 2014 15:25:08 No.258587 Report

Quoted By: >>258593

>>258571
i let weeds grow indispersed with my other crops as long as they dont seriously take them over or shade em out or something
most of them have their uses anyways, some wild plants around here draw thousands of bees and good insects to my yard(also spider mites stick to wild plants always before going to my crops so thats another plus)
i rarely weed, i mostly do it in the winter just going by and chopping and dropping em where they lay to build soil/microbe mass/quality over time kinda like wood chips
i barely have any problem with weeds just completely taking over anyways(eat the weeds dont kill them, sometimes wild plants can have more nutrition then their domesticated partner plant)

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 21 Jan 2014 15:27:50 No.258589 Report

Quoted By:

>>258370
just chew that grass for juices then spit it out, might not be great but still has its uses(also it should get a grain stalk in the summer time which is also edible)

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 21 Jan 2014 15:43:46 No.258593 Report

Quoted By: >>258600 >>258603

>>258587
I do much the same thing. Mostly because I'm lazy. So, long as they don't bother the other plants in an anti-companion planting way, I don't mind. Though, some are a bear and need removed quickly. Like brairs, poke, burdock, etc. Those have their own place to grow and make a right mess of things when they mingle with everything else. The one that I actively remove ASAP is a type of invasive thistle. They grow super fast and come up from as far down as 2 feet in the ground and drill right up through any type of natural mulch. They don't taste very good either and are a pain to prepare.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 21 Jan 2014 15:44:49 No.258594 Report

Quoted By:

>>255136
>>255137
Add this, "PUBLIC ACCESS SEED BANK", to the list:

http://www.jlhudsonseeds.net/index.htm

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 21 Jan 2014 15:52:01 No.258600 Report

Quoted By: >>258636

>>258593
>brairs, poke, burdock,
luckily i dont get those here, the only real bad thing i get is spurge nettle and i can use that if i really wanted to anyways
my crops seem to enjoy having all the wild diversity around them anyways , it cut down on the pests tons to the point i rarely ever get em at all

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 21 Jan 2014 15:53:03 No.258603 Report

Quoted By: >>258606 >>258636

>>258593
thistles are the shit depending on the type, i usually just eat em raw or shave down the stalks of leaves and eat em like celery
tasty tasty

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 21 Jan 2014 15:54:38 No.258606 Report

Quoted By: >>258636

>>258603
meant to add that thistles can have a weird taste sometimes, my tastebuds adjust to it quite readily after a couple chews though so its kinda like eating lettuce to me

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 21 Jan 2014 17:28:42 No.258636 Report

Quoted By:

>>258603
>>258606
This type is classified a "noxious weed" in this state and illegal to allow grow. They are really thin; never getting thicker than a pencil. The larger bull thistle is fine though.

>>258600
Yeah, companion planting is basically what you are doing. It helps camouflage the plants from pests among many other things like giving shelter for predator of the pests and giving pests similar plants to eat on instead of yours.

ChilliAnon

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_0088.jpg, 270KiB, 1296x678

ChilliAnon Wed 22 Jan 2014 23:02:06 No.259450 Report

Quoted By: >>259537

So they've progressed to seedlings now, the soil seems to be drying out pretty quick though.
Should I be watering these everyday?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2014 02:29:52 No.259537 Report

Quoted By:

>>259450
Water them at any time they seem to be drying out too much. The soil should get just barely dry then water. That way they don't stay saturated 100% of the time. That helps prevent root rot. It is a balance that comes with experience.

When you have heated soils, you always need to water more. You can make an automatic watering system that's pretty easy to do. Take old length of cloth/rope and stick it in the soil on one end and in a jar of water on another end. The water wicks to the soil as needed. Just keep the water source below the soil.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2014 07:36:31 No.259657 Report

Quoted By: >>259780 >>259837 >>259838 >>259914 >>260321

Best plants to grow in zone 7, specifically 7A? I'm already planning on:
>Tomatoes
>Onions
>Potatoes (Russet and Sweet)
>Corn
>Tobacco
>Lettuce
>Watermelon
>Pumpkins
>Strawberries
>Honeydew
>Garlic
>Green beans
>Asparagus
>Broccoli
>Carrots
>Cucumbers
>Kale
>Spinach
>Stevia (inb4 faggot)
>Possibly grapes

After plotting out my gardening space, I still have about %25 free space left. I've got a small indoor herb garden so I'm stocked up on most kitchen herbs. What else should I plant, guys?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2014 14:51:28 No.259780 Report

Quoted By: >>259820

>>259657
How big is your gardening area?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2014 17:29:12 No.259820 Report

Quoted By:

>>259780
Not sure of the exact sq footage but it's a little over 3,000 sq ft. I can extend or retract the space if need be, but the space I'm working in has already been tilled from last year. It's a huge space and I'm lucky to have it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2014 18:03:54 No.259837 Report

Quoted By:

>>259657
What about jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes)?
They are very rustic and don't give a shit about the cold and bad weather. Almost no illness or bugs. Easy to gro.

You can plant them in a row somewhere and it makes a nice natural fence. Also, you'll get so much bulbs you'll be able to plant dozens of plants next year.

They taste good too.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2014 18:05:42 No.259838 Report

Quoted By: >>259879

>>259657
I wouldn't plant potatoes.
They take a lot of space in the garden (even if you have a very large one) and they stay in the garden for a long time.

They are just so fucking unexpensive to buy too. Unless you have some weird, heirloom variety you want to grow (but I see you want russets and sweet), you should use all that space for something more interesting.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2014 19:52:07 No.259879 Report

Quoted By: >>259892

>>259838
Those are some odd things you are saying about potatoes.

1: take up a lot of space

One hill of potatoes normally takes up about 2-4 square feet depending on how you are staking them and have them arranged on that hill. You can get about 15,200 pounds of potatoes per acre with standard gardening methods. I think the world record is something like 108 ton of potato per hectare (2.47 acres. I think that's like 2 pounds of potatoes per square foot. Compare that with other staple crops and potato average. All numbers are, "per hectare."

Sorghum 1.5 tons
Soybeans 2.4 tons
Wheat 3.1 tons
Rice 4.3 tons
Corn 5.1 tons
Plantains 6.5 tons
Yams 10.5
Cassava 12.5 tons
Sweet potatoes 13.5 tons
Potato 17.2 tons

2: they stay in the garden for a long time.

There are 1,000s of different types of potatoes. Some are early crops and some are late crops. Russets are a late crop potato (around 145 days) while Yukon Gold are an early crop potato (around 95 days). Pumpkins can take about 130-160 days, onion 100-120, and so on. Potatoes don't take much longer than many other vegetable in the average garden.

3: They are just so fucking unexpensive to buy too.

This is both subjective and regional. On one hand you have flavor. For instance, Yukon Gold potatoes far far exceed Russet potatoes in flavor. Yukon Gold is popular in stores and much more expensive than Russet potatoes. On the other hand, you have regional prices and availability. Where I live I have to drive 60 miles to find a store that has Yukon Gold potatoes for sale all the time.

When I planted Yukon Gold potatoes last year I harvested 3 times as much as I planted. I still have 1 row in the ground. I'm still eating them through the winter and I should have enough for seed potatoes this coming season. Mine are "organic" too. In fact, I didn't put anything but water on them all season.

Sure, potatoes can be pretty cheap at the store, but they are super cheap when you plant them yourself.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2014 19:57:38 No.259881 Report

Quoted By:

I found this nifty link,

http://www.gardensofeden.org/04%20Crop%20Yield%20Verification.htm

It shows crops and how much you can get per acre. Kind of neat since I'm using yield as one of the things to plan my gardens this year.

I'll be planting lots of onions, carrots, beans, potatoes, sweet potatoes, and tomatoes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2014 20:23:12 No.259892 Report

Quoted By: >>259979

>>259879
yukon gold and russets are the same price here in NC. Been eating the golds recently, I agree about the better flavor although I wonder if there is less nutrition in the thinner skin.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2014 21:06:46 No.259914 Report

Quoted By:

>>259657
Peas and radishes. The radishes probably wouldn't even take any extra space, just plant right along with something else. Flowers are always nice to have too.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 23 Jan 2014 23:03:24 No.259979 Report

Quoted By: >>260198

>>259892
Most of the nutrition is actually inside the potato. The nutrition you get from the skin is actually the dirt residue left over after rinsing them.

As far as which one has more or less nutrition, the ones with more color should have better nutrition. Like the purple potato for instance.

>yukon gold and russets are the same price here in NC

That's pretty interesting. Here Russets are about $3.30 per 5lbs bag and Yukon Golds are $4-$5 for a 3lbs bag which is like robbery. Right now we can only get Russets unless we want to drive about $30 worth of fuel to get to a place that still sells them.

I'm glad I still have a bunch left.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2014 16:20:30 No.260198 Report

Quoted By: >>260451

>>259979
>Most of the nutrition is actually inside the potato. The nutrition you get from the skin is actually the dirt residue left over after rinsing them.
actually the skin is high in nutrients
"When compared ounce for ounce, potato skin has more nutrients that the rest of the potato. Potato skin contains B vitamins, vitamin C, iron, calcium, potassium and other nutrients. Potato skin also provides lots of fiber, about 2 grams per ounce. If you eat a medium baked potato, including the skin, you'll get nearly 4 grams of fiber, 2 milligrams of iron and 926 grams of potassium. Be sure to wash the potato well and remove any obvious blemishes before cooking. " same goes for sweet potatoes in general
heres a lil more info if you're interested http://healthyeating.sfgate.com/potato-skins-healthy-3873.html

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2014 21:54:34 No.260321 Report

Quoted By: >>260323

>>259657
a couple mushroom logs
Its incredibly easy, just buy a bucket of plugs and water now and then

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2014 21:57:25 No.260323 Report

Quoted By: >>260324

>>260321
how to go about growing shittake or w/e mushrooms on a log? i have a ton of oaks etc behind my house so thatd be nice

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 24 Jan 2014 22:02:49 No.260324 Report

Quoted By: >>260385 >>260440

>>260323
easiest way is buying premade plugspawn, its basically just infected wooden dowels
Then you drill a bunch of holes in your logs, hammer the dowels in and seal it up with some wax
Then its just a matter of keeping the logs in the shadow and watering occasionally

you can find some more detailed guide online, but thats really all there is to it, with some luck you can start in the spring and have the first of many harvests in late fall

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2014 02:14:39 No.260385 Report

Quoted By:

>>260324
thanks, seems interesting

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_7270.jpg, 191KiB, 500x333

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g Sat 25 Jan 2014 04:49:40 No.260436 Report

Quoted By: >>260437 >>260451 >>260488

Poorfag here with the $100 budget.

I was on my way to buy $25 worth of cinder blocks to make a raised bed. I did go to the store, but I ended up going home without the cinder. It must have happened for a reason though because I stopped at goodwill on my way home and scored two of these awesome plastic raised beds for $17, so a little over $8 each. They fit my area pretty much perfectly and actually look nice, so I saved a bunch of money.

The problem is they are 42x42" square. What is the most efficient way to plant them? The sun shines from (facing the beds) the front in the morning, left side afternoon, back at sundown. Basically it gets sun all day long except early morning hours.

I was thinking of planting beans/peas along the back, so it can climb on the fence, and then tomato or something else with shorter companion plants under like lettuce or something?

Sorry about the mess I'm still cleaning and we're using the wood to build a chicken coop.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2014 05:06:01 No.260437 Report

Quoted By: >>260451

>>260436
I thought you were supposed to make rows north to south. Maybe I have it backwards.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2014 05:09:19 No.260440 Report

Quoted By: >>260451 >>260478

>>260324
Question about spawn. So lets say I have a mushroom log that's "done" and i tear it into mycellium covered pieces. Are those just as good as plug spawn?

I've read that they use grain to start new spawns but how much of an advantage does this intermediate step give?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2014 05:26:51 No.260451 Report

Quoted By: >>260567 >>260590

>>260198
>actually the skin is high in nutrients

The is an incorrect myth continually being passed around. It is the residues on the skin that make the most impact on adding to a potatoes' overall nutrition (especially iron). Even with that, it is about a 20% increase between skin off and skin on. It's still good, and I always eat them with the skin and recommend everyone to eat the skin. It's just that the source is a bit misunderstood.

>>260436
>The problem is they are 42x42" square. What is the most efficient way to plant them?

Divide each up into nine 14 inches squares and use the square foot gardening method with that measurement if you want.

>>260437
Local conditions sometimes mean you need to change up. This can be due to high winds, shady areas, etc. Some people don't even use "rows" in the first place.

>>260440
The mycelium infused wood is great for making your own mushroom kits and plugspawn. You can break it up and slap it between some freshly cut down rounds of tree. you can also take a firewood-sized round of log, split it like you would firewood then fit it back together with the mycelium sandwiched in between the pieces and tie it tightly to keep it from falling apart. You can mix it in with a bag of freshly made dowels to make your own plugspawn or even mix it in with sawdust or straw to make kits.

Just keep in mind the type of mushroom you are grown and its needs as far as what is best to grow on/in.

The grain methods are normally used in conjunction with a pressure canner/autoclave. The grain will be sterilized in the pressure canner then inoculated with the culture or spores. This provides a sterile environment that allows only the mycelium of your choice to fully colonize. Using the other methods listed above relies on a bit of chance since some of the growing medium might already be infected with a competing fungi.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2014 08:46:56 No.260478 Report

Quoted By:

>>260440
you could cut it in slices, then sandwich those in between bigger slices of fresh wood
But i doubt it would work with a log thats completely done, by then the mycelium lost much of its vigor
Maybe right after the first harvest
Grain is used indoors for rapid expansion of mycelium, but thats a whole different league
albeit very interesting

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Planters.jpg, 12KiB, 337x450

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2014 11:36:34 No.260488 Report

Quoted By: >>260570 >>260590

>>260436

Great score on the two raised beds for only 17 bucks! I can't find any raised beds on CL for less than 100.

I scored these planters for 20 bucks last week. Mostly for the 5 rectangular ones in the back which gives me more room to plant rows. Just those alone would cost more than 5 bucks each plus all the 1gal ones are nicer than the nursery pots I have for cheap. Everything else is extra for me. I had 10 1gallon nursery pots I got for 20cents each and 20 5gallon nursery pots for 50 cents each but go for at least 3 bucks used.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2014 16:05:07 No.260567 Report

Quoted By: >>260751

>>260451
residues on the skin does not count for all the fiber vitamins minerals antioxidants etc(in fact most is washed off with dirt), idk where you heard that from but its completely wrong
the skin has more nutrients ounce for ounce then the inside of the potato does
http://voices.yahoo.com/healing-powers-eating-potato-skin-6534926.html

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2014 16:07:29 No.260570 Report

Quoted By:

>>260488
im pretty sure ive seen those rectangular planters at dollar general before for a couple bucks, not completely sure if theyre the same size though

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO image.jpg, 982KiB, 1936x1936

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2014 16:12:19 No.260571 Report

Quoted By: >>260574 >>260590

Some of my seedlings are curling and have brown/yellow patches on the leaves, does anyone know what this shit is?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2014 16:17:37 No.260574 Report

Quoted By: >>260575

>>260571
maybe not enough humidity in the air? is that indoors? if so maybe add a humidifier or something like that

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2014 16:20:23 No.260575 Report

Quoted By:

>>260574
They're growing under lighting, but the seed tray box comes with a lid to make it a mini greenhouse type thing. I've not been using it to get them more air, but if it's humidity then I'll give it a go

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g Sat 25 Jan 2014 17:05:34 No.260590 Report

Quoted By: >>260603

>>260451

Good idea. I'll have to look into square foot gardening.

>>260488
It was! Apparently similar beds are $80 on amazon so I lucked out.

That's a pretty good deal for those pots. I bought huge clay ones at home depot last year, I really really should have bought more but I was on a budget. They were so cheap, like $13 for the huge ones. They don't have them anymore. :( I like the black 15gal nursery pots but it's neigh damn impossible to find any here. My grandma traded in 100's of hers for like, a pitiful $15 credit at a local plant nursery that was kinda bs.

>>260571
I think you have some diseased plants. Was the soil you used sterile?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2014 18:19:49 No.260603 Report

Quoted By: >>260654

>>260590
I used indoor potting compost, and not all my plants have the problem

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 25 Jan 2014 20:23:36 No.260654 Report

Quoted By: >>260785

>>260603
Another possible problem is that the roots have begun to outgrow the seed tray. Consider repotting to a slightly larger pot (teacup/coffee mug size) and avoid over watering.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 26 Jan 2014 01:11:09 No.260751 Report

Quoted By:

>>260567
There's more nutrients on the skin than in the skin. Super scrubbing them washes this off. There's still more nutrients in the flesh than in the skin regardless. However, the skin does contain higher concentrations of different types of nutrients the flesh has little of and vice versa. It is just that there's more flesh than there is skin, a lot more. Which means the flesh has more than the skin.

This is like the 3rd time explaining it. I don't think I can explain it in a different manner to get the point across properly.

ChilliAnon

ChilliAnon Sun 26 Jan 2014 01:44:47 No.260785 Report

Quoted By:

>>260654
So it could be humidity, disease or potting.
I'll try repotting all of the big dodgy looking ones and try and increase the humidity in the closet somehow.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 26 Jan 2014 03:46:02 No.260818 Report

Quoted By: >>260831

Hey I saw a few threads ago someone had mentioned making newspaper pots and had posted links to it. I missed it, can someone please repost information about them. The only google results are for buying kits. Thanks for the help…

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 26 Jan 2014 05:16:35 No.260831 Report

Quoted By:

>>260818
There are tons of methods to making seedling pots from newspapers. Searching "DIY newspaper pots" will net you tons of videos and links on how to do it. Some are simple folding, some require you to make a form, and so on.

All you really need is a bottle the size you want the diameter of the pots to be and wrap some newspaper around it that's cut to the right height. Just fold in the bottom to make the pot.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 26 Jan 2014 14:20:05 No.260932 Report

Quoted By: >>262899

What can I do with a 7m*8m garden in the UK?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 26 Jan 2014 18:32:03 No.261052 Report

Quoted By: >>261103 >>261481

building a soil bank around my porch like in pic, any tips on erosion control before the plants grow in im plating it with clover and maybe some kinds of flowers

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO bank.png, 13KiB, 958x717

Anonymous Sun 26 Jan 2014 18:33:14 No.261053 Report

Quoted By: >>261103 >>261481

id din't post the pic sorry here it is

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g

extreme poorfag !!NdGGjNKzI2g Sun 26 Jan 2014 21:08:14 No.261103 Report

Quoted By:

>>261052
>>261053

Covering it with old, decomposing straw will help prevent erosion control, otherwise adding lots of bark mulch.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 27 Jan 2014 16:09:52 No.261481 Report

Quoted By:

>>261053
>>261052
keep in mind once plants get established the roots will prevent erosion by holding soil in place

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 29 Jan 2014 18:48:43 No.262792 Report

Quoted By: >>262876

The past 4-5 days now it has been -20F to -22F every night. I have a poly tunnel with a single heater and fan in it. At that temp outside it is only able to maintain 40F to 42F inside the tunnel. Although, it is set on low.

It has been amazingly cold here, beyond what it has ever been for this many days in a row. One time it was -42F, but that was a single night.

Good news is that this will kill off lots of pest insect larva, but also good insect larva too.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 29 Jan 2014 21:48:58 No.262876 Report

Quoted By: >>262924

>>262792
There's a radish plant in my yard I just let sit and grow to see what happened. It survived last winter, but this and the last arctic blast are killing it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 29 Jan 2014 23:05:23 No.262899 Report

Quoted By:

>>260932
Feed yourself completely.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2014 00:03:07 No.262924 Report

Quoted By:

>>262876
You've had a radish growing for more than a year?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2014 00:59:13 No.262956 Report

Quoted By: >>263184

Any ever do terraforming just for the fun of it?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 30 Jan 2014 14:14:17 No.263184 Report

Quoted By:

>>262956
I do for my yard to have more yard space. I leveled off a large section and moved that to fill in a ravine at the edge. The drop is about 20 feet and I extended the yard out about 10 feet so far. Now, I need fill dirt to raise the yard up about 5 feet I think. When it is finally done, I'll extend my gardens into that area. Lots of work.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO DSCN2598.jpg, 3MiB, 4608x3456

Anonymous Fri 31 Jan 2014 20:34:48 No.263817 Report

Quoted By: >>263961 >>263988

I hope there's some Mushroommen out there. Anyways I followed a few guides on how to grow white button mushrooms from store bought mushrooms. So I went ahead and do it and came out with this pic related.

I'm new to mushroom growing but to me those look like Oyster mushrooms...how could something like this happen?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2014 00:26:54 No.263921 Report

Quoted By: >>263963 >>263988 >>264036 >>264044

Thinking of sticking two pvc pipes in the ground and hanging netting or some such between the two to make a trellis for peas. This leaves me with two questions.

a) is this a bad idea?
b) if not, could anyone recommend what to use for said netting?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2014 00:36:00 No.263925 Report

Quoted By: >>263988 >>264279 >>264609 >>264612 >>264614

Hypothetical here, what if I just scoured some plot of land free of underbrush and life and peppered it with all kinds of seeds and murdered all kinds of birds and small animals that disturbed my land and would otherwise have ate the seeds?

What I want is a semi-wild land that grows vegetables but requires no maintenance or fertilizer or anything else.

Is this possible? The idea came to me when I abandoned a garden long ago but the chives persisted, sprouted up fucking everywhere and flourished with wild abandon long after I stopped tending the garden. I had an endless supply of chives and did zero work besides picking them.

Also abandoned farm fields with wild crops growing everywhere that I would plunder as a little kid that didn't understand the dangers of wondering into an illegal pot grow or whatever.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2014 02:46:08 No.263961 Report

Quoted By: >>264139

>>263817
genetics

tell us what you did, id like to grow portabello's but i can't find any spawn for them on the internet

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO May2011_peas.jpg, 56KiB, 325x400

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2014 02:53:52 No.263963 Report

Quoted By:

>>263921

PVC can collect water (even when open to the ground sometimes.) Put a cap on it if it's open to the sky.

I personally just do peas on tomato cages. It takes very little work and cleans up quickly. I'd advise whatever you do follows that general theme if you're going to be re-using the space.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2014 04:39:20 No.263988 Report

Quoted By: >>264139

>>263817
Yeah, those look a lot like oyster. Your growing medium was already inoculated with them I'm betting. Let them flush and treat them well. It is a good mistake at least.

>>263921
It'll work fine for one application. However, netting sucks because it isn't fun untangling plants from it when the season is over. A few single lines of wire, arranged like a normal wire fence will work just as well. Just train the plants up to them. They will be far easier to clean and reuse at the end of the season. You can use the netting to help keep birds/animals away from some crops.

>>263925
That can work and some people do that already. It is basically a type of companion planting since you let weeds grow up along with them. Most put some research into finding out what weeds are edible too. As far as not fertilizing, that will be needed to get a satisfactory crop. Compost and aged manure are best for this.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2014 07:47:50 No.264027 Report

Quoted By: >>264041

http://www.gurneys.com/product/2731/h

Free blueberry bushes if you pay shipping.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO P1010994.jpg, 143KiB, 600x800

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2014 08:25:59 No.264036 Report

Quoted By: >>264044 >>272985

>>263921
My trellis setup for peas. Sticks + string.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2014 08:56:18 No.264041 Report

Quoted By: >>264043 >>264082

>>264027
>http://www.gurneys.com/product/2731/h

Is this website legit...says shipping for 2 plants is $3.99. These teeny babies or something, and that's why they're free or...?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2014 08:59:02 No.264043 Report

Quoted By: >>264045

>>264041
It's Gurney's. And yeah, probably smaller plants or bare roots or something. It's a promotion.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_7225.jpg, 105KiB, 333x500

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2014 08:59:54 No.264044 Report

Quoted By: >>272985

>>263921
>>264036

I just made this pea trellis. Used 4 pieces of wood, 50c each from home depot, a couple screws, and some black metal show storage rack grids. I got a box of 50+ from a thrift store and they're pretty useful. Might make a few more for other climbing stuff. it's 3x2 feet

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2014 09:02:03 No.264045 Report

Quoted By: >>264107

>>264043

I'm new to buying stuff so I didn;t know Gurney's is a legit brand or anything. Sadly looks like they don't ship to CA so I'm out of luck even if I wanted them. :(

I planted thornless and thorned blackberries but they didn't produce or do well at all so I expect blueberries would be about similar.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2014 13:35:40 No.264082 Report

Quoted By:

>>264041
You can't get more than one though.

>Notice:
>-you have exceeded the maximum qty of 1 for this product

Yes, gurneys is legit. I have a few of their catalogs somewhere around my house.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2014 14:18:34 No.264107 Report

Quoted By:

>>264045
>I planted thornless and thorned blackberries but they didn't produce or do well at all so I expect blueberries would be about similar.

They are completely different types of plants, fyi. One is a briar and the other is a shrub.

It takes about 4 years for blackberries to mature enough to start doing really well. This year mine will be better than they've ever been. Last season was their 4th season I think and they finally started producing a lot.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2014 17:03:36 No.264139 Report

Quoted By: >>264242

>>263961
1.Bought a sealed pack of white button mushrooms from Wal-mart. Kept them sealed in a Crisper Drawer for a week.

2.Collect spent coffee grounds from my own coffee machine for a week. Kept them in a zip-lock in the Crisper Drawer.

After a week the mushrooms were getting dark spots and had some mycelium.

3.Torn a cardboard box and boiled it with water to separate the corrugated fiberboard. Took it out and left it to cool.

4. Cut the mushrooms in pieces, avoiding touching the mycelium.

5. Grabbed a 45-oz container of butter, cleaned it with boiling water only.

6.Placed a layer of damp corrugated fiberboard on the container, then place 6 mushroom pieces on it. Repeated this 3 times and covered the last exposed mushrooms with a layer of fiberboard.

7. Sealed the container, placed it under the sink.

8. Sprayed them with water each 3 days for about 2 weeks.

After two weeks the mycelium took over the fiberboard.

9.Boiled the coffee grounds to purify them. Let them cool.

10. Grab another 45-oz container of butter and cleaned it with boiling water, let it cool.

11.Placed 1/2 inch of coffee grounds on the container, then placed a layer of the mycelium fiberboard on it.

12. Covered the mycelium fiberboard with 3 inches of coffee grounds.

13. Placed a coffee filter on top of the container, lock it in place with masking tape but leaving a little space un-taped for easy watering.

14. Place is under the sink, water it each 3 days.

After 3 weeks it started to flush...with oyster mushrooms.

>>263988
Really? Maybe the mycelium I saw on the mushroom pack was actually Oyster and it just overtook. Still, for a first timer it's nice to have something flush.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2014 21:10:33 No.264242 Report

Quoted By:

>>264139
The button mushrooms are Agaricus bisporus and the oyster is Pleurotus ostreatus. They are pretty easy to tell apart. They also prefer much different growing mediums. Agaricus loves horse manure and Pleurotus loves "dead" cellulose (coffee ground, paper, sawdust, etc.) What you created was a perfect spawning ground for Pleurotus.

Who knows how the thing was inoculated with the Pleurotus, but it may have been in the pack of Agaricus the entire time; just in spore or mycelium form. I kind of doubt you misidentified the pack of Agaricus.

>Still, for a first timer it's nice to have something flush.

Indeed. you can make tons of kits just like what you already have done. Just keep mold from growing on them and everything should do pretty well. You can toss old spent kits into your compost and garden soil and they will do a great job of composting and conditioning the soil. They also sometimes flush right up from the garden soil.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2014 22:22:11 No.264261 Report

Quoted By: >>264296

>>256281
Great info, but ripe peppers are hotter. They are much sweeter as well though, so easy mistake to make.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 01 Feb 2014 23:13:16 No.264279 Report

Quoted By:

>>263925
>chives

There's your answer. Can't kill those things.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2014 00:02:19 No.264296 Report

Quoted By: >>264314

>>264261
No, they are not hotter when riper, however the level of capsaicin does increase as they get riper. The other compounds also increase and mask the hotness to a certain degree. This is why the green ones will be hotter. You can change this by drying the ripe ones. Then the inhibiting compounds will change chemically due to oxidation and let the full brunt of capsaicin shine through.

I hope that's clearer.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2014 01:14:14 No.264314 Report

Quoted By: >>264318 >>264329

>>264296
They generally taste hotter to me, yet sweeter. *shrug*

Might just be the superhots though. Or individual subjectivity.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2014 01:39:03 No.264318 Report

Quoted By:

>>264314

Same here. You aren't alone.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2014 02:12:29 No.264329 Report

Quoted By:

>>264314
It could be numerous things.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2014 17:07:54 No.264609 Report

Quoted By:

>>263925
dont be an asshole and destroy all the life on the property, birds and other small animals spread seed for you for free
learn to coexist and create an ecosystem of your own, sharing a few berries here and there etc with wild animals wont kill you they will just shit out the seeds and start new plants for you

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2014 17:10:17 No.264612 Report

Quoted By:

>>263925
oh also wild plants have quite a bit of importance when growing a garden too destroying all of it will just welcome pests into your garden

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2014 17:12:04 No.264614 Report

Quoted By:

>>263925
oh also wild plants have quite a bit of importance when growing a garden too destroying all of it will just welcome pests into your garden(quite a bit of wild plants are edible/medicine too)

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Plant2.jpg, 80KiB, 640x480

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2014 20:51:21 No.264735 Report

Quoted By: >>264740

Need help identifying this plant.

It's grown right between my container garden. Looks nothing like any of the plants I'm growing (not sure). The soil below my planters does get moist from dripping out of the containers so I can see how it would grow. But it's growing faster than most of my plants. Guessing it's a weed but might just be a random plant.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Plant3.jpg, 83KiB, 640x480

Anonymous Sun 02 Feb 2014 20:56:07 No.264740 Report

Quoted By: >>265041 >>265044

>>264735

Here's a closeup

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2014 05:07:29 No.265041 Report

Quoted By: >>265386

>>264740
looks like a sow thistle but might be a lettuce, how does the leaf attach to the stem? does it wrap around it? cant really see where the leaf attaches
its probably a sonchus oleraceus
either way good to go, tasty on a sandwich or in a salad or just raw
it is definitely a wild plant also

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2014 05:10:16 No.265044 Report

Quoted By:

>>264740
http://www.sbs.utexas.edu/bio406d/images/pics/ast/sonchus_oleraceus.htm
check how the stem attaches

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO My Lettuce.jpg, 3MiB, 5178x2890

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2014 05:17:58 No.265052 Report

Quoted By: >>265161 >>265220 >>265222

So uhh... I grew this. It started off awfully, as you can see, because I was very negligent of them. I was putting in the effort I should have, or any at all really.

In the first photo, after weeks, this was the only growth I had seen out of these seedlings, and they were dying. I was going to take two of them to "my guy", but he wasn't around, so I let them sit out and die on my dashboard of my car since I just didn't care. The remaining two stayed with my basil seedling and after replacing the nutrient solution with a much weaker concentration, they started to do really well.

They lived but they were growing very slowly. This is because my light had to be moved away from them to accommodate the growing basil seedling. Since it wasn't doing great, I tossed it out because I valued my lettuce more. Now the light could be a couple inches away from it rather than several.

They stayed at the size of the second picture for I think two months. They weren't going anywhere fast. I had been moving their raft in and out of the water every night because I thought that was all the aeration the roots needed rather than buying a $15 air pump for the airstone that I already had. Their roots never grew out past the bottom of the 1.5" coconut husk plugs. I finally bought that airstone, and within two weeks, they went from about the size in the second picture to the size in the third and fourth.

I used a paper towel roll as comparison since I figured it was the most common household item. They're still fairly juvenile romaine lettuce plants that haven't filled out like the mature ones at the grocery stores, but I decided to just eat them and start a larger batch to work on sometime soon.

As you can see, the older leaves near the bottom are dying, and they always were through this whole process. I don't know if it was a nutrient deficiency or a sign that they needed air circulation.

This took about four months which is absolutely awful by almost any standards.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2014 12:20:21 No.265161 Report

Quoted By:

>>265052
The love oxygen for the roots, so always give it to them. If they are not growing leaves well, they may need nitrogen.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2014 16:25:55 No.265220 Report

Quoted By: >>266923

>>265052
What kind of light are they under? I recall reading something about lettuce prefering the red end of the spectrum for growth.

Looks like a strange system too. I would get that air pump if you try again, or use some kind of media instead of letting them sit in water.

I just set up a ebb & flow experiment for some radishes. Basically just cement trays filled with hydroton sit on top of a rubbermaid reservoir. Waiting to see if they pop up.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2014 16:28:40 No.265222 Report

Quoted By:

>>265052
some plants like certain humidity etc do u have that under control? also make sure you have the proper light spectrum for what you are trying to produce

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Garden2.jpg, 82KiB, 640x480

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2014 21:53:00 No.265386 Report

Quoted By: >>265390 >>265509 >>265518 >>265596 >>265857

>>265041

The more mature branch wraps around the leaf at the bottom and most of them have the two lobes..pretty sure it is a sow thistle like you said. Thanks!! Just watched a youtube video from eattheweeds..it looks different from his because hes in FL and I'm in CA. But when I google sow thistle, lots of them look like mines. I'll let it grow for now.

---------------

I tried to take the seeds off strawberries bought from the store but could never clean them since they were so tiny. They would develop mold or something and I'd throw them away.

I bought a kit for cheap off amazon (price dropped to 5 bucks when it usually is 18-20 overpriced) pretty much just for the seeds. Came with 3 tiny pots, tiny peat pellet/coir and a small clear zipped bag of strawberry seeds. Doesn't say what variety. When I google strawberry seedling plants, NONE of them seem to look like these. Never seen any of them . Top center leaves have tiny red spots and they grow tiers of leaves.

Anyone know variety of strawberry plant is this?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Garden6.jpg, 105KiB, 640x480

Anonymous Mon 03 Feb 2014 22:05:03 No.265390 Report

Quoted By: >>265509 >>265518 >>265857

>>265386

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 01:05:46 No.265509 Report

Quoted By: >>265518 >>265548 >>265619

>>265386
>>265390

Starting to think they're not strawberry plants. Maybe a weed just killed the strawberry plants and took over.

halp!

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 01:22:30 No.265518 Report

Quoted By:

>>265386
>>265390
>>265509

omg its henbit...

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 01:58:03 No.265548 Report

Quoted By: >>265551

>>265509
My first thought was Creeping Charile or some other kind of weed. I never would have guessed that is a strawberry plant. How long ago did you plant it? Does it smell?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 02:01:27 No.265551 Report

Quoted By: >>265599

>>265548

I'm pretty sure it's henbit now. It grew pretty fast, like 1-2 months in a 1gallon container which I planted some strawberry seeds. All the other ones were small but this one grew FAST which is why I suspected to be a strange one or weed. I'm going to pull them out, I read that they are edible but I don't have much space for these.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 02:53:16 No.265596 Report

Quoted By:

>>265386
thats henbit and its a wild mint but not minty like a normal mint
edible nontheless

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 02:54:43 No.265599 Report

Quoted By:

>>265551
if you pull them then eat what you pull theyre very nutritious, try to spread it through your yard it will make mats of edible greens

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 03:58:00 No.265619 Report

Quoted By: >>265627

>>265509
a lot of "weeds" just happen to be edible and great medicine
where else can you get organic vegetables/herbs and fruits and nuts and grains for free?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 04:11:22 No.265627 Report

Quoted By: >>265633 >>265641 >>265646 >>265857

>>265619

I'm watching more videos and learning about henbit. I'm just worried when it flowers and goes to seed it will spread everywhere and become invasive and hard to get rid of. It also killed a few strawberry seedlings it shared it's pot with.

I kind of want to keep it but I already feel its been spreading. I might plant it next to the sow thistle in the clay soil. My neighbor with hens is probably growing this and it's spreading to my garden. I planted more strawberry seeds just now after finding out the disappointment that it was a henbit. I really was excited about perhaps having strawberry. Now I have to find out if the seedlings growing in my small containers are really strawberry seedlings or just more henbit. :\

I'll take a picture of the small seedlings tomorrow and ask that you identify those. They don't seem to look like strawberry leaves either!

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 04:21:33 No.265633 Report

Quoted By: >>265682

>>265627
yeah invasives can be nice or bad depending on your view of it, i like to let them spread through my yard because i eat a lot of it plus wild plants bring tons of bees and butterflies birds etc to your yard

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 04:33:02 No.265641 Report

Quoted By: >>265682

>>265627
wild plants are almost guarenteed to pop up whether or not you let them go to seed because birds and things like squirrels and the wind etc spread seed(sow thistle seeds can go quite a distance theyre kinda like dandelion seeds) people trying to destroy it all are fighting a losing battle, people waste hundreds of millions a year on herbicides and gasoline for lawn mowers etc
if something gets really bad overgrown where i cant walk through there i just chop the stuff and let it break down where i chopped it

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Hedera_Aww_Shit.jpg, 39KiB, 640x480

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 04:38:07 No.265646 Report

Quoted By:

>>265627
>henbane

I'll trade you!

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 05:07:14 No.265682 Report

Quoted By: >>265686

>>265641
>>265633

I don't plan on using herbicides but plucking them might prevent them from spreading wildly in my garden. It's good that it's edible but you could also say strawberries as invasive since they send out runners and spread like crazy in a couple years. But I would rather have strawberries growing everywhere to enjoy.

If they will be around and come back, it shouldn't be a problem? It's only my second year getting into gardening, first year was a bit of a disaster. Dealing with out of control ants just killing everything and farming aphids to kill more stuff.

The only good thing is my jalapeno plant grew and a handful of peppers. Trying to grow more because they seem resilient. My tomato plant is big now and I see two TINY tomatos growing. Trying to grow a bunch of soybeans for edamame as well as growing scallions which should be easier. Just bought a bunch of pots so I plan to grow more this year hoping to produce something.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 05:13:13 No.265686 Report

Quoted By:

>>265682
yeah i prefer invasive berries myself to greens but theyre both nice and yeah im sure they will be back one way or another
peppers are one of my favorites to grow theyre pretty easy and i just love hot peppers like habaneros

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 16:06:35 No.265857 Report

Quoted By: >>265860 >>265866

>>265627
I have henbit all over my yard and garden. It is super easy to just rake your hand through a clump and pull it out. It isn't like invasive grasses that are hard to pull. I actually like pulling it because of how easy it is and it makes me think I'm doing more work. lol

It has nice blooms when there's a thick mat of it. It'll keep other weeds down and you can even use it between rows/plants which tower over it in order to prevent other more problematic weeds from growing.

Bumble bees LOVE it. Which means they will come into the garden farm more than normal when you have henbit blooming and pollinate your other vegetable flowers.

My only gripe with henbit is that it crosses over stone/brick paths super fast and when you walk on it it'll smoosh a little and things don't look as nice for the path then.

Purple Deadnettle (Lamium purpureum) and Ground Ivy (aka, Creeping Charlie; Glechoma hederacea) looks a lot like it and many people confuse the two, but I'm sure the stuff in >>265386 and >>265390 is indeed henbit. If you have live stock (chickens, horses, pigs, goats, etc), you can use henbit as fodder for them.

As for eating Henbit (Lamium amplexicaule), you can eat it raw or cooked (entire plant) and it is like most other wild greens in flavor (like kale/colored greens-flavor sorta.)

Ground ivy is also edible. raw or cooked (entire plant), but has more flavor and is a little more bitter than henbit (eat it raw or cooked; you can treat it like spinach); younger leaves will be less bitter.

Purple Deadnettle is also edible. raw or cooked (entire plant).

All 3 plants are highly nutritious; most notably high in iron. So, if you are going to eat any of them, you can at least know you don't need to distinguish between then except for taste preference. FYI, my strawberries and these 3 plants play very well together.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 16:10:59 No.265860 Report

Quoted By:

>>265857
It is funny, a huge amount of wild edbile weeds in North America were actually introduce by humans because they were growing them in Europe as food and wanted the same things over in NA.

Now, most everyone is using weed killer to get rid of them. lol

I could do without multiflora rose though it was brought over for use as "fencing" it does have edible rose hips at least. I also feel sorry for people who live in an area where their state has labeled blackberries as an, "Invasive Species and Noxious Weeds", and can't legally grow them.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 16:18:58 No.265866 Report

Quoted By: >>265918 >>266103

>>265857
Henbit (Lamium amplexicaule)
Ground Ivy aka Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea)
Purple Deadnettle (Lamium purpureum)

Those three are great candidates for juicing too.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 18:39:22 No.265918 Report

Quoted By: >>265937 >>266106

>>265866

I see one article of a lady juicing her weeds but not really that many stories or experiences of people juicing henbit. Guessing when it flowers the nectar from the flowers are sweet. Have you tried it?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 04 Feb 2014 19:12:05 No.265937 Report

Quoted By:

>>265918
you can eat the leaves stems and flowers all good
i dont really bother juicing anything thats what my teeth are for plus juicing tends to remove most of that good fiber

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2014 00:33:44 No.266067 Report

Quoted By: >>266103 >>266106

I just tore out all the henbit from my pots. I noticed a bunch more tiny seedlings of henbit growing along the cracks with other weeds too and the far end of my backyard has huge ones. I pulled out all the ones along near my garden so they don't spread even more. Always good to know that if some apocalypse comes, there is edible henbit and sow thistle around.

My tomato had suckers I picked off my tomato plant (yay free plants) that grew roots which I put in the 5 gallon pot which had henbit. More tomato plants can't be bad. Plucked out all the henbit seedlings I thought were strawberry but I guess those seeds never germinated. Sowed more strawberry seeds in all those containers. Can only hope some strawberry seedling germinate.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2014 02:18:45 No.266103 Report

Quoted By: >>266106

>>265866
I never would have thought about eating Creeping Charlie. It's all over my yard, and I'm usually pulling it out of my strawberry patch. Ehhh it doesn't look very appetizing though, I don't even think the rabbits touch it.

>>266067
I planted some Alpine strawberries about a week ago, and they are just now coming up. Tiny little guys. I keep reading that people store them in the freezer before planting. I didn't bother and have had good germination. I wish buying the plants themselves weren't so expensive. I could use about 1000.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2014 02:24:11 No.266106 Report

Quoted By: >>266111

>>265918
Juicing wild greens almost always ends up tasting like the bottom of a lawnmower deck. You have to thin it out with regular vegetables until it is to your liking.

>>266067
Juicing is an entirely different thing. Some people do it for health to get a lot of something without all the massive amount of chewing (it takes a big pile of wild greens to make a cup of juice, more than most people eat in a salad). Other people do it because they really like it. Kind of like those that drink orange juice, but don't eat oranges much.

>>266103
Cook them with other things. For instance, i fucking hate basil with a passion. I can't eat it in a salad, no way. But, I can use it as a seasoning. Same with spinach, can't stand it until it's been cooked. Collards I can't stand raw, but put a big heap on my plate fixed with some southern cuisine recipe and I love it.

You just need to experiment with new ingredients in many different ways before writing them off completely.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2014 02:38:48 No.266111 Report

Quoted By: >>266120 >>266300

>>266106
basil is awesome <3 eating it raw
it does have a weird taste the first time or 2 you eat it though til your taste buds adjust to it
it has a little bit of that burn kinda like a peppermint when its raw too, pretty nice

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2014 02:59:42 No.266120 Report

Quoted By:

>>266111
I love it. My weiner dog and I just chomp down the plants.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 05 Feb 2014 14:59:45 No.266300 Report

Quoted By:

>>266111
It reminds me of Vienna sausages for some reason.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO rad 001.jpg, 335KiB, 1632x1224

Anonymous Thu 06 Feb 2014 20:31:29 No.266923 Report

Quoted By: >>267054 >>267146 >>268039

>>265220
They've started to pop up. I wasn't real sure if just scattering the seeds over hydroton would work, but there they are. If they'll form into nice radishes is another story.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 07 Feb 2014 01:43:42 No.267054 Report

Quoted By:

>>266923
radishes greens are tasty either way so win win even if it doesnt produce a bulb

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 07 Feb 2014 04:49:50 No.267146 Report

Quoted By:

>>266923
Nice.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 07 Feb 2014 08:22:39 No.267209 Report

Quoted By: >>267463 >>267495

I'm thinking of making a mini greenhouse for a few of my indoor plants, is making a reflective backing for more sunlight retarded or smart?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 08 Feb 2014 01:50:02 No.267463 Report

Quoted By:

>>267209
Its helpful. If the sunlight is relatively bright you can get away with a white backing instead of reflective, but reflective is better.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 08 Feb 2014 04:15:50 No.267495 Report

Quoted By: >>267559

>>267209
It depends on how much direct sunlight hits the plants during the day. If it is over 4 hours of direct sunlight per day then only use white painted reflector. If it is 4 hours or less, use a foil reflector. Having the light broken up is best, so crumple the foil up before applying it as a reflector.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 08 Feb 2014 11:26:45 No.267559 Report

Quoted By: >>268150

>>267495
aluminum foil is a shit-tier reflector, all it does is create hotspots
Plain white is best reflector for plants, for a mini gh you can just use plain paper

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 08 Feb 2014 20:53:29 No.267701 Report

Quoted By: >>267708

Last year I bought some pumpkin and watermelon seed packs, but never got around to planting them. Now I've moved, but I really don't have the space to plant more than one or two. Does anyone know if I can get them started in peat pots and sell off the seedlings? Do they transplant well enough to do that?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 08 Feb 2014 21:23:22 No.267708 Report

Quoted By:

>>267701

Yes, but they come in fairly large and fast and the roots like to go horizontally everywhere quick. I wouldn't start it in less than 3 ounces unless you're planning on repotting very quick. I don't know what kind of space/lighting you have indoors, but I personally wouldn't do melons until approx a month or less before when you're planning to transplant them outside. Two weeks would sound OK to me.

You'll get differing opinions on if they transplant OK. I don't have trouble and actually like doing that since you get a little head start on maturing and avoids some pest issues. I think if you keep them in a pot too long pre-transplant you might have more trouble. Good luck.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 09 Feb 2014 01:18:46 No.267806 Report

Quoted By:

where is faggot OP that play's CS:S and owns cornfield?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO rad 008.jpg, 208KiB, 1306x980

Anonymous Sun 09 Feb 2014 19:11:42 No.268039 Report

Quoted By: >>268262 >>269591

>>266923
Next I'm going to see if I can get them to sprout in lava rock the same way. It's way cheaper than hydroton.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 10 Feb 2014 00:16:03 No.268150 Report

Quoted By:

>>267559
>Having the light broken up is best, so crumple the foil up before applying it as a reflector.

That prevents the hot spots.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 10 Feb 2014 00:37:57 No.268156 Report

Quoted By:

does anybody know if fertilizing things like wild blackberries/huckleberries etc etc will maybe make them produce more or grow faster/larger canes? was considering building the soil around the patches i have a bit because i doubt it could hurt
also, does anybody know if mint could crowd out and kill wild blackberries? i know they get pretty tough roots underground

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 10 Feb 2014 00:49:43 No.268162 Report

Quoted By:

does anybody know if fertilizing things like wild blackberries/mulberries etc etc will maybe make them produce more or grow faster/larger canes? was considering building the soil around the patches i have a bit because i doubt it could hurt
also, does anybody know if mint could crowd out and kill wild blackberries? i know they get pretty tough roots underground

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 10 Feb 2014 00:50:59 No.268164 Report

Quoted By: >>268203 >>268423

does anybody know if fertilizing things like wild blackberries/blueberries etc etc will maybe make them produce more or grow faster/larger canes? was considering building the soil around the patches i have a bit because i doubt it could hurt
also, does anybody know if mint could crowd out and kill wild blackberries? i know they get pretty tough roots underground

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 10 Feb 2014 02:07:11 No.268203 Report

Quoted By:

>>268164
It does help. Blackberries are 100 times more invasive and pervasive than mint is.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 10 Feb 2014 04:43:55 No.268262 Report

Quoted By:

>>268039
They're so. So. Cute.
Now I look like such a faggot, but it's the truth.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 10 Feb 2014 16:15:34 No.268423 Report

Quoted By: >>268687

>>268164
You might find them easier to control if you plant them in containers.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 11 Feb 2014 03:50:08 No.268687 Report

Quoted By: >>271185

>>268423
i prefer to let things grow with wild abandon, the less work i have to do for food the better

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO rad 009.jpg, 218KiB, 1306x980

Anonymous Wed 12 Feb 2014 23:49:50 No.269591 Report

Quoted By: >>269618 >>272711 >>272849

>>268039
Has anyone ever found the "days to harvest" on the back of a seed packet to ever be accurate? My radishes are saying 20-30 days, but I don't think that has ever happend for me.

Although, I don't have the power of the sun on my side. I'm running my lights at 12/12 trying to simulate the spring time. Maybe 14/10 would make them grow faster, but I don't want them to bolt on me. This is how I learn I guess.

Well 6 days in so far. If I had the appropriate nutes, it would help.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Feb 2014 00:17:37 No.269605 Report

Quoted By: >>269615 >>269618

How much would soil/fertilizer, etc. cost to built a 10x5 foot plant bed? I want to grow some peppers, or maybe a few other assorted vegetables and a small herb garden, but my yard gets flooded a lot so I think a raised plant bed is my best option.

Basically, excluding wood and tools, how much would materials like soil cost for a bed 10 foot long x 5 feet wide, 2-3 feet deep? I might build two, depending on how I feel when I plant the first one.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Feb 2014 00:40:46 No.269615 Report

Quoted By:

>>269605
it would really depend what you plan to use in your soil mix(compost, composted leaves/moss, sand, rock dust, seaweed, manure etc etc)
i personally make my own compost and what not and harvest seaweed for an abundance of minerals for my plants so i dont really pay anything other than maybe a couple bucks for a neighbors horse manure
you can also bury fish heads under your vegetables and corn etc for slow release nitrogen

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Feb 2014 00:44:37 No.269618 Report

Quoted By: >>269622

>>269591

I just use "time to harvest","days to maturity",etc. to compare speed between comparable plants. So, say, two pepper plants which are marked for 75 and 95 days... I know the 75 probably comes in faster.

Beyond that... yeah, I don't expect that number to be very accurate. Especially when it's describing plants that are grown for fruit or roots.

>>269605

It takes a lot of soil. I'd recommend not doing 2-3ft height unless you've got a good deal on soil or a good reason for it, and go for 1ft or less. That's 100-150cu ft vs 50cu ft.

Also, I'd lay out a 5ft tape measure and check to see if 5ft width is comfortable for working in the center of the bed from the edge. I have 4ft width beds and that's sometimes even a slight strain for me.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Feb 2014 00:53:35 No.269622 Report

Quoted By:

>>269618
I was thinking that about the widths too, and I'm not solid on 5 feet.. 4 feet does sound more realistic. I was thinking 5 would be right at my limit, but I can imagine running into issues. Good point about the soil depth too.. I might just go with individual pots for now, and build a compost pile to have soil (at least some) ready next year. Thanks for the input.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Capture.png, 3MiB, 1919x1079

Anonymous Fri 14 Feb 2014 09:35:19 No.270177 Report

Quoted By: >>270204

looking into getting into hydroponics, anyone has more sources besides OP post?

Also looking to get a system like pic related going, anyone know where i can find clear/white looking bases instead of the usual ugly black ones?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 14 Feb 2014 12:10:38 No.270204 Report

Quoted By:

>>270177

http://www.youtube.com/user/bnbob01/videos

This guy does some cool aquaponics stuff, not solely hydroponics, but it's pretty impressive backyard growan.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Worms 1.jpg, 3MiB, 3264x2448

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2014 01:14:22 No.270421 Report

Quoted By: >>270505 >>270507

Does anyone have any experience with vermicomposting? My worms have presumably succumbed to some disease. I was wondering if anyone could identify the problem from this photo. I have others, but this is the clearest one. Thanks guys.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2014 04:05:40 No.270505 Report

Quoted By: >>270512

>>270421

Your bin is WAY too moist.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2014 04:07:34 No.270507 Report

Quoted By:

>>270421
poor little buggers :c

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Worms 2.jpg, 2MiB, 3264x2448

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2014 04:14:43 No.270512 Report

Quoted By: >>270514

>>270505

It's not actually : / I have literally never had a drop of leachate. Not to mention, I have only ever given them the fairly dry extrusion from my masticating juicer. I know that these aren't the best pictures to judge from... Thank you for your input just the same.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2014 04:17:12 No.270514 Report

Quoted By: >>270531

>>270512

Lechate isn't always an indicator of a bin that is too moist. It doesn't have to be present for the level to be too high. Do you have a picture of the whole bin? And why aren't you burying the food under the soil to prevent fungus and mold growth?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2014 04:51:13 No.270531 Report

Quoted By: >>270539 >>270792

>>270514

It's true, I ought to have buried the food. I also admit to including too little carbon material. However, I am chiefly interested in what specifically is afflicting them. Worms are such hardy organisms there must be something more than just too high a moisture content. I mean, they can survive under water for a time if there is enough dissolved oxygen. Look at incorporating worms into aquaponic grow beds. I have to hit the sack, but thankfully this is a slow board. There really isn't much more to the bin than what's pictured but I'll up another pic tomorrow. Thanks again.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2014 06:04:23 No.270539 Report

Quoted By:

>>270531

Are you talking about the little white specks around the worms? Looks like a fungus to me.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2014 16:01:43 No.270792 Report

Quoted By:

>>270531

Not sure but you should be putting more saw dust or shredded newspaper/shredded cardboard. Plus you need to aerate it by mixing it up. Worms need some sand to help them digest the stuff too.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO albinotomato.jpg, 361KiB, 1024x768

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2014 19:08:34 No.270919 Report

Quoted By: >>270935 >>270948

Hello fellow gardeners.
Now that I'm about a month away from planting my first batches of seeds into some fresh soil, I do have an important question.
How do I handle "hard to germinate" seeds best? I have only a very limited supply of certain plant-seeds, that (according to what I've read) are quite tricky in their beginnings.
Quite some time ago, I'v read something about germination bags, a method that involves a sterile and moist medium in a air-tight bag/glass. They would be put into regular containers right after germination. Is this a useful method, or just fancy bull?

Pic unrelated.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2014 19:48:14 No.270935 Report

Quoted By:

>>270919

Depends on what the seeds are. Some seeds have a very specific germination such as fire, scoring, acid bath, long freeze, etc. Google the germination for the specific plant.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2014 20:15:46 No.270948 Report

Quoted By:

>>270919
I've started seeds before by putting them in a sealing plastic sandwich bag with a damp paper towel. Its an easy way to keep the seeds moist, when they start to sprout I move them to soil.

But this is with very common vegetable seeds.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2014 20:31:49 No.270959 Report

Quoted By: >>270967 >>271038 >>271059

why do my plants have small white hairs and are really sticky? i dont want that

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2014 21:00:37 No.270967 Report

Quoted By: >>271008

>>270959
They're old. Grey hair and a lack of personal hygiene are to be expected when you're getting older.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2014 22:31:41 No.271008 Report

Quoted By:

>>270967
heartily chuckled.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Feb 2014 23:45:28 No.271038 Report

Quoted By:

>>270959
What kind of plant is it and where are the hairs? Hairs on the roots are often mycellem of symbiotic fungus. Hairs on the leaves or stem is common for many plant species.

Generally there is nothing unusual or bad about hairs. Btw symbiotic fungus is an extremely good thing. It improves soil quality and extends the plant's effective roots.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Feb 2014 00:23:02 No.271059 Report

Quoted By:

>>270959
depends on the plant really
some plants naturally have hairs like that

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Feb 2014 06:20:42 No.271185 Report

Quoted By: >>271377

>>268687
Look into jujubee trees, those fuckers seem are scraggly and wimpy looking but seem to thrive on neglect. Once established you'll be shitting yourself trying to figure out what to do with all the damned fruit come August/September.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMAG0229.jpg, 2MiB, 1952x3264

Anonymous Sun 16 Feb 2014 15:05:30 No.271329 Report

Quoted By: >>271340 >>271344 >>271349 >>271392

I got a question regarding fruit trees. My Bing cherry tree is massive. What's the best way to pick this thing? It gets so many that it takes forever by hand.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Feb 2014 15:48:46 No.271340 Report

Quoted By:

>>271329
Take what you need and leave the rest for the birds. No reason to pick them all if you don't have to.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Feb 2014 16:02:42 No.271344 Report

Quoted By: >>271469

>>271329
get a stick and start hitting shit

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Feb 2014 16:15:09 No.271349 Report

Quoted By: >>271469

Would anyone have tips on the following plants?
Telegraph plant (codariocalyx motorius) - have been incredibly difficult to germinate and the only truly successful one died quite soon, but I suspect that was due to accidental overexposure to sunlight

Tobacco, about to order 4 general types (Indian, Burley, Oriental, and Virginia) any tips on growing or particular strains to suggest?

>>271329
You could try a pool cleaning net, when I had orange and grapefruit trees it worked pretty well.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Feb 2014 17:07:44 No.271377 Report

Quoted By:

>>271185
interesting, thanks! ill have a look into it im all for more fruit

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 091S5194O3.jpg, 59KiB, 500x498

Anonymous Sun 16 Feb 2014 17:28:19 No.271392 Report

Quoted By: >>271395 >>271469

>>271329
Buy or make a fruit picker for it. You can make one out of a long pole with various styles of heads. Some types "groom" the plant and pull the fruit off. I have a big basket picker like that I use for apples. Other types use a PVC pipe that has a larger inside diameter than the diameter of the fruit and on the end has been cut and melted into a 2 prong, curved fork that picks the fruit. The fruit then rolls down through the pipe to you. (pic related)

If you have a spot welder you can make a groomer basket out of coat hanger wire. The wire isn't all that strong so you'd need to have the tines well supported and relatively short; which is fine for cherries.

Do an image search for "DIY fruit picker" and you'll see tons of simply-made fruit pickers. Some are just some trash and duct tape and work well. The kind that groom the shrub or tree are normally the fastest pickers since they cover the most area. Those are great for stuff like blueberries, cherries, and other thornless fruits.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Feb 2014 17:30:01 No.271395 Report

Quoted By: >>271401 >>271469

>>271392
Heh, here's the link to make the one in that image:

http://www.instructables.com/id/BERRY-PICKER/all/

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Feb 2014 17:36:02 No.271401 Report

Quoted By:

>>271395
FYI, a heat gun is far easier to use than an open flame as that person uses. I've even used boiling water to make PVC plyable. However, I had to dump a large amount of salt into the water and make a fully saturated solution of salt water in order to get the water hot enough to do this. This is because normal boiling water normally isn't hot enough for PVC. You can make a salt water saturated solution by just adding more and more salt until it won't dissolve anymore in the water. This will greatly raise the boiling temperature from 212F/100C to 227.66F/108.7C. I used to use this method when I didn't have a heat gun and needed to form PVC pipes to make didgeridoos.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Feb 2014 20:31:27 No.271469 Report

Quoted By:

>>271344 >>271395
>>271349
>>271392
thank you all. I already googled, and I still get better results on here.
Birds don't mess with them. They get pretty big.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Feb 2014 21:31:46 No.271506 Report

Quoted By: >>271533 >>271639 >>271640 >>271642

Hey /out/, first time gardener here.

I live in zone 6 with a last frost date of around April 20 and I was wondering what and when should I start some plants. The amount of information I can find online is overwhelming(and sometimes contradictory) and I'm really just confused. If preferable just link me to a site that has it all laid out, plain as day and I'd be really grateful. I'd rather not ask for someone to take a lot of time out of their day just to help me.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Feb 2014 22:09:20 No.271533 Report

Quoted By: >>271639 >>271642

>>271506
It depends on the type of plant - some prefer to be started indoors long before the growing season begins, while others don't like having their roots disturbed and need to be started outside on the first day of the season. You will need to look up the individual things you want to grow.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2014 01:26:05 No.271639 Report

Quoted By:

>>271506
beans are easy(bush beans if you dont wish to make trellis's) things like watermelons pumpkins and other melons are rather easy if you have a bit of space for the vines to spread out
cucumber is very easy to grow too and produces more than you can use generally
it really just depends on what you want to grow, theres a lot you can grow even in zone 6
>>271533
i prefer to start most plants in starter pots outside after the last frost(pretty early in the year here in florida) and transplant them after the meristem gets a bit thicker and able to support its weight(meristem stage is when its optimal to pick a fair bit of wild greens because some tend to get a bit bitter when they get older and tougher, works the same when some plants go to seed)
things like watermelon pumpkin beans etc i prefer to just sow directly into the ground

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2014 01:27:11 No.271640 Report

Quoted By: >>271643

>>271506
oh also try out some fruit trees or berries if you have a bit of space theyre rather easy to grow(especially blackberries and blueberries)

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2014 01:29:15 No.271642 Report

Quoted By: >>271643

>>271506
beans are easy(bush beans if you dont wish to make trellis's) things like watermelons pumpkins and other melons are rather easy if you have a bit of space for the vines to spread out
cucumber is very easy to grow too and produces more than you can use generally
it really just depends on what you want to grow, theres a lot you can grow even in zone 6
>>271533
i prefer to start most plants in starter pots outside after the last frost(pretty early in the year here in florida) and transplant them after the meristem gets a bit thicker and able to support its weight(also the meristem stage is when its optimal to pick a fair bit of wild greens because some tend to get a bit bitter when they get older and tougher, works the same when some plants go to seed)
plants are almost always more tender in the meristem stage
things like watermelon pumpkin beans etc i prefer to just sow directly into the ground

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2014 01:30:24 No.271643 Report

Quoted By:

>>271640
>>271642
posts got mixed up because i had to delete and edit the first one(is there a way to edit posts without deleting them? i might be going full retard here)

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2014 15:05:59 No.271907 Report

Quoted By: >>271948 >>271962

I need some advice: I have sprouted leeks and onions in my vegetable garden. I planted them in late summer but they stopped growing (or rather grew but very slowly) during winter (not that surprising I guess). I plan to plow my plot this week, should I leave them and hope they start growing again in spring or do I get rid of them?

I could also use an effective way to prevent birds from eating my strawberries (scarecrows don't do jack shit).

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2014 16:11:53 No.271948 Report

Quoted By: >>271961

>>271907

How big is your strawberry plot? If possible, stake in some 2-3' stakes every few feet around the plot, then throw bird netting over it and weigh it down with a couple small rocks or bricks. A scarecrow won't do shit, bit pinwheel flowers, CD's strung up, and wind chimes will keep them away usually, ut the bird netting is the most surefire way.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2014 16:32:27 No.271961 Report

Quoted By: >>271973

>>271948

>How big is your strawberry plot?

8 strawberry plants. I will look into the net thing (truth to be told, I'm trying to make everything by myself and I'm already doing a small wooden fence: shit is taking way longer that I initially thought it would).

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2014 16:33:48 No.271962 Report

Quoted By: >>271984

>>271907
they will most likely come back in the spring the roots underground will have gotten more established

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2014 16:51:58 No.271973 Report

Quoted By: >>271984

>>271961

Trust me the net and stakes will be way easier and cheaper than anything else. If you're inclined to make it look really cute, you can put PVC pipe into the ground (vertialy) with a little cement in the bottom, and then use wooden or metal rods to attack the bird netting (or chicken wire, but the netting will look nicer) which you can then put the rods into PVC when needed and remove at the end of the season.

By the way how many berries do you get off 8 plants? I'm growing strawberries in a tighter spot than last year. I had 20+ plants but am now limited to what I can fit in a big pot, around 10.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Feb 2014 17:07:16 No.271984 Report

Quoted By: >>272387

>>271962
Guess I will leave them then.

>>271973
I suppose I will buy the netting then (I need some bedding as well anyway), I can always make the stakes with wood from the nearby forest.

>By the way how many berries do you get off 8 plants?

Hard to tell: they're very young and I planted them last May in a spot with little sun exposure (no other choice) so at best I'd say something like 3 strawberries per plant and week on average. I expect a lot more this year.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 18 Feb 2014 04:51:52 No.272368 Report

Quoted By: >>272380 >>272417 >>272565 >>272719

I will be growing a total of 5 chili cultivars this year and when I plant them out it will be on a balcony. Is it possible to keep them from cross-pollinating or is that a lost cause?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 18 Feb 2014 05:05:38 No.272380 Report

Quoted By:

>>272368
>keep them from cross-pollinating

>Keep /pol/ in /pol/

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO bird netting simple.jpg, 40KiB, 683x720

Anonymous Tue 18 Feb 2014 05:18:02 No.272387 Report

Quoted By:

>>271984

I'm not the bird netting person who was suggesting bird netting, but fully concur. I've been using bird netting for many years for very successful pest deterrence.

The easiest way I've used it was to zip tie it to thin wooden stakes at the center of the stake and nowhere else. And then resting the stakes in upside down clay pots for both easy movement/removal and rot resistance (versus in the ground or in pvc). Pic related.

Tying them just in the center of the stakes means you can easily move the netting out of the way as needed to access the bed. Pests don't do that so well at all when dealing with bird netting. Tying it off any more than that just makes your life harder and has little further effect on pests.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 18 Feb 2014 06:26:30 No.272417 Report

Quoted By:

>>272368
Some cultivars won't cross with each other. So, just look into that as well. It'll only matter if you are saving the seeds for next season. You can get some pretty fun hybrids sometimes and sometimes utter duds.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 18 Feb 2014 16:19:26 No.272565 Report

Quoted By:

>>272368
it doesnt really matter hybrids are pretty awesome
some will and some wont though

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO rad 022.jpg, 213KiB, 1306x980

Anonymous Tue 18 Feb 2014 21:56:07 No.272711 Report

Quoted By:

>>269591
16 days in and they are starting to take off. I probably should thin them out, but I just don't feel like it. Maybe I'll wait a few more days so I can get enough greens for a meal.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 18 Feb 2014 22:12:24 No.272719 Report

Quoted By: >>272732

>>272368
Wrap the flowers in glad wrap to avoid cross pollination. You need to be on top of it and get them before they've fully emerged, but it works. You'll only get self pollination

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO carolina reaper.jpg, 216KiB, 1720x1339

Anonymous Tue 18 Feb 2014 22:34:27 No.272732 Report

Quoted By:

>>272719
Alright, brilliant. I'll do this with the healthiest looking plants and intentionally cross the rest and see if I get something interesting next year.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO rad 022.jpg, 213KiB, 1306x980

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 02:53:17 No.272849 Report

Quoted By: >>277322

>>269591
Here they are at 12 days, starting to take off. I probably should thin them out, but eh what the hell? I'll see what happens.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1329008394694s.jpg, 7KiB, 222x200

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 03:19:11 No.272863 Report

Quoted By:

why can't i just buy a shitload of seeds and throw them around the dirt? a few of them are bound to sprout

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 07:49:36 No.272965 Report

Quoted By:

So, uh, how many oz of beans can you grow per plant and is it easy to grow?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 09:39:29 No.272985 Report

Quoted By: >>273519

>>264036
>>264044
I was thinking of making one of these. There was a image (or name for it) where you have your bean trellis, then your pepper plants, then tomato I think? Each plant helps the other grow.

If someone has the name for that particular box setup or the image it would be greatly appreciated

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 09:54:49 No.272986 Report

Quoted By: >>272987

What's /out/'s preferred way to sprout seeds?

Pic related, not my own but I'm going to give it a shot

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO eggshells.jpg, 79KiB, 624x416

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 09:55:53 No.272987 Report

Quoted By: >>273053

>>272986

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 10:19:51 No.272989 Report

Quoted By: >>272992 >>272997 >>273070

How come black people don't garden? I won't partake in this "activity" until the structural microoppressions and white privilege keeping them away has been rooted out.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 10:23:50 No.272992 Report

Quoted By: >>272993 >>272994

>>272989
Because they dont know how. Just look at africa, they can't even farm.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 10:25:20 No.272993 Report

Quoted By:

>>272992
>tfw you will never claim a piece of fertile land in Africa and build a wall around it
>tfw you will never have the ultimate /out/ garden in the perfect climate and soil conditions

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 10:25:42 No.272994 Report

Quoted By: >>273236

>>272992
Are you even aware of just how fucking triggering you are right now. Are you. I just can't.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO michael.jpg, 28KiB, 600x400

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 10:36:29 No.272997 Report

Quoted By:

>>272989
That's not true. My boyfriend Michael is black from the blackest Nigeria and he helps me out with gardening. We're getting married soon btw, we love each other so much. :)

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 14:14:42 No.273038 Report

Quoted By: >>273052

Got a bunch of 4 gallon buckets (because I'm a snowflake) and soil. Is it enough to just place rocks and gravel in the bottom (or a raised level supported by chopped up beer cans) or do I need some drilling as well? I'd rather avoid the latter because I will be keeping them inside for half of the year.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 15:02:09 No.273048 Report

Quoted By: >>273052

This thread is part of why Moot can't make money on this site. Homegrown terrorism, even furnishing an environment where such filth can fester, is even worse than CP.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 15:18:25 No.273052 Report

Quoted By:

>>273038
id put a hole in the bottom for drainage, the water has to go somewhere(unless you live in a really dry area)
>>273048
umad

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 15:19:35 No.273053 Report

Quoted By:

>>272987
hmm thats a good idea havent considered that before

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 11592148783_ebed1e25c6.jpg, 163KiB, 500x334

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 15:43:26 No.273057 Report

Quoted By: >>273062 >>273063

I have a small pond in my back yard, and I want to make it as wildlife-friendly as possible. What are some good nectar producing flowers for insects and hummingbirds? And are there any small plants that birds like to eat, that are easy/fast to grow?

I was thinking Sun Flowers, just because birds love the seeds and they produce plenty.

Extra challenge: When it rains, the front and sides flood. There's only one raised area that doesn't flood. Any plants that can tolerate submerged roots/base for a couple of days?

I'd also like to get some kind of vine to grow around the structure.

Pic related: it was an old fire pit. I dug it out a little bit and builta couple things, threw in some logs & rocks. Any improvement tips will be appreciated - but it's geared more towards function for wildlife than appearance

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 15:55:09 No.273062 Report

Quoted By:

>>273057
Make it bigger and line it with big rocks burrowed deep into the soil.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 15:58:38 No.273063 Report

Quoted By:

>>273057
do you have any wildflowers in your yard? if so use some of them bees love flowers from their natural surroundings
if you want decent plants that like some water and also flower try sea purslane(edible and good omega 3 content aswell)

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 16:18:25 No.273070 Report

Quoted By: >>273079

>>272989
gardening was the primary pasttime of black people for like 200 years

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 16:37:51 No.273079 Report

Quoted By: >>273082 >>273088

>>273070
And then..

#WHITEPEOPLE

You gotta fuck up everything good. It's a pathological urge, a sick one that sometimes manifests itself as cannibalizing humans and making lamp shades out of slave skin.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 16:51:38 No.273082 Report

Quoted By:

>>273079
No wonder they are feeling unsafe in /out/. It's an invisible structural system that nurtures and hides that evil pathology in the souls of white people.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO image.jpg, 845KiB, 1600x1200

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 16:51:52 No.273083 Report

Quoted By: >>273089 >>273107 >>273220

anyone know what this is? its a web like white mold. sorry, best I can do image wise.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 17:01:09 No.273088 Report

Quoted By:

>>273079
troll spotted

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 17:07:18 No.273089 Report

Quoted By:

>>273083
It's a very potent strain of vegetative AIDS created by white scientists in the 60s to oppress nature.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 17:46:40 No.273107 Report

Quoted By: >>273168

>>273083

Looks like it could be white powdery mildew type fungus.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 20:14:09 No.273168 Report

Quoted By: >>273195

>>273107
>one letter away from white powery
Whether intentional or not, this is a microaggression that enforces a culture of racial supremacy and exclusivity and it is NOT ok.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 21:06:18 No.273193 Report

Quoted By: >>273208

Best way to get rid of grass in the area that will be garden this summer? It's a mix of Bermuda and desert shortgrasses.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 21:08:13 No.273195 Report

Quoted By:

>>273168
My nigga!

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 21:29:29 No.273208 Report

Quoted By:

>>273193

Cover it from the sun. Use lots of cardboard or a huge tarp.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 21:40:41 No.273220 Report

Quoted By:

>>273083
just a type of mold. turn your soil and problem solved

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 22:13:31 No.273236 Report

Quoted By:

>>272994

Go blog about it on Tumblr. Link it here when you're done, and I expect you to use this title:

>"Someone on 4chan implied bad things about black people! Abloo bloo"

Then go visit /pol/ and livestream yourself slashing your wrists for attention in response.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1351511164603s.jpg, 3KiB, 125x94

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 22:50:39 No.273247 Report

Quoted By:

Anyone doing seed exchanges? List your heirlooms you hippie.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Feb 2014 23:00:34 No.273255 Report

Quoted By: >>273283 >>273288

Foxfarm Ocean Forest to me seems like the best soil at an affordable price. Bought a 1.5 cu ft bag for 12 bucks plus tax. That was the best price in my area. Now there is another place with a sale for 10$ for the same 1.5 cu ft bag. Gonna get like 2-4 bags to fill my empty planters and get growing even more. Are you guys using this stuff too in your container gardens?

Been looking for a decently priced worm composter (worm factory for less than 50 bucks on CL) for the castings and worm tea...still looking. Also like the envirocycle someone listed off CL but someone bought it before I could.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Feb 2014 00:10:49 No.273283 Report

Quoted By: >>273293 >>273708

>>273255

Don't get worms. get black soldier fly beetle larva. 100x faster composters, self-harvesting, clean, good feed for chickens, and they keep away houseflies. they also eat more types of food than worms and self-heat their bin to around 100F which means they can work better in the heat (unlike worms) and work longer into the winter and earlier in the spring.

Also $12 for 1.5cubic feet of dirt seems really expensive. Is there anything special about it? I get 3 cubic feet compressed compost soil for $7 at box stores.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Feb 2014 00:13:09 No.273288 Report

Quoted By:

>>273255
Oh I see, it's a mix of casting and bat/sealife compost. I guess that's not too bad of a price. I can get 100% worm castings $8 per 1.5 cubic feet at a local small-town nursery, maybe try looking there as well?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Feb 2014 00:21:30 No.273293 Report

Quoted By:

>>273283
>black soldiers on your little plantation
You guys are doing this on purpose. I'm uncomfortable.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Feb 2014 05:13:00 No.273519 Report

Quoted By: >>273654 >>274047

>>272985
I hope this helps
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_companion_plants

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Feb 2014 09:32:18 No.273654 Report

Quoted By:

>>273519
C-mpanion pl-nting is associated with domestic terrorism, like raw m-lk. Use a VPN if you must read up on it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Feb 2014 10:01:37 No.273660 Report

Quoted By: >>273709

Should I go ahead and plough up my garden if the ground is still frozen? I've read a little frost might do good for heavy clay soils and mine is pretty heavy but I'm new to this and don't want to fuck it up. An early start is always nice, though.
http://files.diydharma.org/other/John_Seymour-The_Complete_Book_of_Self_Sufficiency.pdf
The book I'm talking about if anyone is interested.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Feb 2014 14:54:24 No.273708 Report

Quoted By:

>>273283
black soldier flies are awesome, they get in my bin naturally every time i make compost(native to here i guess?) they speed up the process tons
i wasnt aware you could sell em, i could make some bucks because theres just so so many of them

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Feb 2014 14:55:26 No.273709 Report

Quoted By:

>>273660
sorry i live in an area without snow or frost so i couldnt say

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Feb 2014 17:31:00 No.273796 Report

Quoted By: >>274023

Two sides of my garden have chain link fence. I'm thinking about planting tomatoes along the fence and not using cages. Any thoughts on the idea?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 21 Feb 2014 01:21:21 No.273992 Report

Quoted By: >>273995

>>255136
what is the best kind of log to inoculate with mushroom spores. And what kind of mushrooms?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 21 Feb 2014 01:29:24 No.273995 Report

Quoted By:

>>273992
i hear hardwoods like oak are best and probably shiitake or oysters
wondering how much it would cost to get spores because it seems pretty easy for the reward

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 21 Feb 2014 01:57:50 No.274004 Report

Quoted By:

pretty interesting read on bacteria in soil and how it benefits you etc http://www.healinglandscapes.org/blog/2011/01/its-in-the-dirt-bacteria-in-soil-makes-us-happier-smarter/

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 21 Feb 2014 03:00:22 No.274023 Report

Quoted By:

>>273796
That's fine, just tie them to it. I love tomatoes btw but why are the tomato plants always so damn ugly and withered no matter how well looked after?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 21 Feb 2014 03:48:15 No.274047 Report

Quoted By: >>274048 >>274073 >>274206

>>273519
The first entry on that list says that garlic and peppers go well together. Is it alright to grow a garlic in the same medium sized pot I have my pepper in or will that be too close?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 21 Feb 2014 03:51:25 No.274048 Report

Quoted By:

>>274047
Sorry, I meant chili peppers. Same goes, nightshade family + allium = true farther down on the list.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 21 Feb 2014 04:52:11 No.274073 Report

Quoted By:

>>274047
>http://www.healinglandscapes.org/blog/2011/01/its-in-the-dirt-bacteria-in-soil-makes-us-happier-smarter/
You'll probably be fine. Intensive gardening packs plants denser than that, and gets around potential problems by feeding them more.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 21 Feb 2014 16:20:04 No.274206 Report

Quoted By: >>274215

>>274047
just make sure you have the space, pepper roots like to grow a fair bit

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 21 Feb 2014 16:58:13 No.274215 Report

Quoted By:

>>274206
I decided to upgrade to 10 gallons and in each I'll put two chili peppers together with 3-4 garlics or oregano.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Feb 2014 07:04:25 No.274529 Report

Quoted By: >>274548

So /out/ tomorrow I'm going to go build a raised garden bed.

It's going to be 8'x3' and probably about 1' tall. Maybe a little more and I'll put a ledge on it so that I can sit on it.

I live in South Eastern Louisiana and it's been about 70-80 all week long and I'm probably going to grow some cucumbers and maybe sunflowers and bell peppers and whatever else is at the hardware store.

I WILL NOT be doing tomatoes though since everyone does them and I hate them.

Any advice? My only concern is getting soil since I don't want to pay out the nose to get about 16 cubic ft. of soil. Also, should I make a separate little box to compost my yard trimmings?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Feb 2014 08:08:09 No.274548 Report

Quoted By: >>274559

>>274529
>I'm probably going to grow some cucumbers and maybe sunflowers and bell peppers and whatever else is at the hardware store.
Why grow what everyone in your area is growing? Check out the internet seed shops and get something cool, make a killing at the farmer's market. Strange asian vegetables, etc.

>Any advice? My only concern is getting soil since I don't want to pay out the nose to get about 16 cubic ft. of soil.
Fill the bottom with rocks for drainage, and for soil you can mix random dirt and compost.

>Also, should I make a separate little box to compost my yard trimmings?
Make it a big one with a drawer at the bottom and ask your local shops if you can have some of the vegetable matter they have to throw out. Moisten and mix the compost well, keep the lid on and you should be able to make as much soil as you want in 2-3 weeks.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Feb 2014 08:31:45 No.274559 Report

Quoted By:

>>274548
>Make it a big one with a drawer at the bottom and ask your local shops if you can have some of the vegetable matter they have to throw out. Moisten and mix the compost well, keep the lid on and you should be able to make as much soil as you want in 2-3 weeks.
You can also compost in garbage bags to get everything done in one go. Just remember to cut ventilation holes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Feb 2014 14:44:06 No.274612 Report

Quoted By: >>274745

I just planted up some chilli seeds. I got 4 Carolina Reapers, 2 Naga Jolokia, 2 Demon Red and 2 baskets of fire.

They're each in their own individual plastic pots and been watered and placed in a heated propagator. They're in my room where it's plenty warm and they're near the window, not in direct sunlight but my room is pretty light during the morning hours and not all that gloomy through the afternoon. Is there anything else I can do to help them germinate?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Feb 2014 20:24:01 No.274745 Report

Quoted By:

>>274612
i dont think they really even need light to germinate just warmth and moisture
after they do youd obviously want to get them under some light though

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 23 Feb 2014 16:05:31 No.275202 Report

Quoted By: >>275209 >>275547 >>275775

I figured that I might plant some vegetables this summer, but the one big thing holding me back is we frequently get deer in our yard that have eaten flowers and a small pepper plant my parents had in the past. Would it be best for me to use a store bought spray to keep them away, or should I find a small amount of chicken wire?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 23 Feb 2014 16:18:30 No.275209 Report

Quoted By: >>275779

>>275202
Lots and lots of razor wire, teach those fuckers what's what.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 24 Feb 2014 01:53:29 No.275547 Report

Quoted By: >>275779

>>275202
Get some landscaping timbers, they are pretty cheap actually, and some "deer netting". The netting will be around 7 feet tall x 100 feet long I think. Just post the timbers in the ground like posts and staple the netting to it.

Drawbacks:
This stuff is black nylon/plastic netting and difficult to see I think. You may want to run some reflective tape around with it on a few different heights just to keep people/pets from running into it. Deer normally see it well, but will try to go through it/jump it if they feel they are running from a threat or something. Snakes can get caught in it and die when it is laying around and loose, so don't leave it laying around anywhere.

Until I got enough money for welded wire fencing, this is the stuff I used and it works well.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 24 Feb 2014 14:27:10 No.275775 Report

Quoted By: >>275777 >>275779

>>275202
if you dont want them jumping your fence just put to fences right next to each other in a row(so it cant run and jump it will get stuck inbetween the 2)
fences are the only real decent way of keeping them out

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 24 Feb 2014 14:28:19 No.275777 Report

Quoted By:

>>275775
two fences*

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 8c8765b256094fc81a3ed9d09efa8845 (...).png, 1MiB, 603x800

Anonymous Mon 24 Feb 2014 14:32:30 No.275779 Report

Quoted By:

>>275209
>>275547
>>275775
Thanks for the advice

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO wallpaper-563092.jpg, 151KiB, 1024x768

Anonymous Mon 24 Feb 2014 17:46:02 No.275846 Report

Quoted By: >>275923 >>276090 >>276186

Can somebody tell me what tree species are these?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 24 Feb 2014 20:46:20 No.275923 Report

Quoted By:

>>275846
looks like pine? cant really tell

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 25 Feb 2014 01:43:52 No.276090 Report

Quoted By:

>>275846
tall, straight trunks suggest some kind of pine. My gut says red pine, but the bit of bark texture I can make out disproves that. Perhaps redwoods?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 25 Feb 2014 03:30:33 No.276186 Report

Quoted By:

>>275846
Lodgepole pine (Pinus contorta)

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO rad 025.jpg, 240KiB, 1306x980

Anonymous Wed 26 Feb 2014 19:53:32 No.277322 Report

Quoted By: >>277563

>>272849
20 days in, no bulbs yet. Not looking too bad for not having the proper nutrients or my meters. I may just have to eat some and thin them out a little.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Feb 2014 00:25:21 No.277563 Report

Quoted By:

>>277322
the good thing about radishes is they dont require a ton of nutrients, giving them too rich of a compost or not aged enough compost can sometimes cause them to fail putting out bulbs and theyll just grow leaves
its happened to me before, i dont really mind though the leaves are really good(best raw or in salads imo) and the leaves have more vitamin c, calcium and protein than the roots do so even if you fail to get roots you still win

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Feb 2014 22:16:16 No.278239 Report

Quoted By:

Does anyone have (or know of) a guide to build an inexpensive grow light setup? I'd rather not spend $100 on a kit.

Thanks.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Feb 2014 23:12:06 No.278261 Report

Quoted By:

How do I make moist soil for indoor seedlings? I used to not put enough water so last year I just mixed the soil in a bowl with some water but then some seeds just molded (but that seems to happen randomly, anyways).

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Feb 2014 00:08:43 No.278294 Report

Quoted By:

Thread is way past 300 posts!

NEW THREAD: >>278288

Capcode	All Only User Posts Only Verified Posts Only Moderator Posts Only Manager Posts Only Admin Posts Only Developer Posts Only Founder Posts
Show Posts	All Only With Images Only Without Images Only Spoiler Images Only Non-Spoiler Images
Deleted Posts	All Only Deleted Posts Only Non-Deleted Posts
Ghost Posts	All Only Ghost Posts Only Non-Ghost Posts
Post Type	All Only Sticky Threads Only Opening Posts Only Reply Posts
Results	All Grouped By Threads
Order	Latest Posts First Oldest Posts First

On these archives

Your latest searches

Homegrowmen (Farming and Gardening) Thread #8