/out/ - Outdoors » Thread #2830405

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Anonymous Mon 21 Jul 2025 13:47:01 No.2830405 View View Reply Original Report

Quoted By: >>2830406 >>2830423 >>2830427 >>2831086 >>2831219 >>2832216 >>2832650

Can we talk binoculars?
I've been going out photographing birds (aka 'birding') and I think I could use something for spotting. I've seen obscenely expensive binocs and ones that are so cheap I'm sure they don't even have lenses made of glass.
Any of you use binoculars in a similar role, for example hunting?
At the moment I'm thinking something cheap or really old, but since I don't know shit I might be convinced I could use something more advanced.

Binoculars thread

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 21 Jul 2025 14:03:51 No.2830406 Report

Quoted By: >>2830560

>>2830405
I use Vortex Diamondback for birding, they're not terribly expensive and they work well. I would stick to max 8X42 -10X42 - anything more than 10X magnification will be too shaky and necessitate a tripod and 42mm lenses let a good amount of light in so you get a clear image without being too bulky. You don't have to go super high end either, you can get something that's as good as you'll ever need for $150, maybe $200.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 21 Jul 2025 16:08:02 No.2830423 Report

Quoted By: >>2830560

>>2830405
Why binoculars? A monocular is much easier to get steady (press the cup against your skul, and brace the wrist that holds it with the other hand, with your elbows against your chest), and usually cheaper.
In addition, you can keep the surroundings in view with the other eye, making it much easier to find interesting stuff to view.
I'm using a vortex solo, for example (the reticle version, specifically, but you won't need that since you're not ranging targets).
>something cheap or really old
Don't. Old lens coatings suck. I've got an inherited pair of Wehrmacht binos, and they're so scratched up that you can barely seethrough them anymore, even though they were only used for a few years (43-45, I think it was) before being stored away. On the other hand, the more recent scopes and monos I've seen were alright after a comparable amount (10-15 years of weekend use) of use.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 21 Jul 2025 16:43:57 No.2830427 Report

Quoted By: >>2830560

>>2830405
Binoculars get expensive because of higher quality glass and higher magnification. There are also auto-stabilizing binoculars. One reason why someone would buy an expensive binocular is because they are more comfortable for your eyes during long periods of glassing.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 21 Jul 2025 16:59:42 No.2830429 Report

Quoted By: >>2830560

if you want budget binoculars look for something with BAK4 prisms. there are random brand clones of similar vortex/leupold build for about $100 less. probably even made in the same factory in china. I have some Carson RD 10x42 that I got for $115 a few years ago that are basically vortex diamondback hd. now they cost a lot more but still not a lot for the quality.
> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1326972-REG/carson_rd_042_10x42_rd_series_waterproof.html
if you have stable hands 10x42 is the way to go, but if you aren't that stable 8x42 will be much easier to get a still picture.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 22 Jul 2025 14:56:02 No.2830560 Report

Quoted By:

>>2830406
>>2830423
>>2830427
>>2830429
Alright thanks for your input all.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 25 Jul 2025 07:45:47 No.2831077 Report

Quoted By: >>2831085

>muh bigger lenses for light collection

There's more to it than that. Don't worry, it's only third grade math.

Objective diameter divided by magnification equals exit pupil. The ideal exit pupil is the size of your eye pupil in the current lighting conditions.

Full daylight: 2-3 mm
Dawn/dusk: 4-5 mm
Astronomy: 7 mm

Having a larger exit pupil than you need doesn't hurt, but it also doesn't help. Essentially you're wasting objective diameter that could support higher magnification. For example, in full daylight, 7x50s offer no benefit whatsoever over smaller and lighter 7x21s.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 25 Jul 2025 10:56:23 No.2831085 Report

Quoted By:

>>2831077
of course you don't need the benefit of more light gathering during daylight. the entire point is that it matters at dusk and dawn, when it's the best time to see animals most animas.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 25 Jul 2025 11:05:37 No.2831086 Report

Quoted By:

>>2830405

Don't cheap out or you'll just buy it twice. Seconding vortex Diamondback 10x42, good beginner bins. Nikon makes good glass too, I birded with aculon 10x50s for years, and little heavy but took a beating and keep going. Heard good things about Celestron. In my experience the sweet spot for bins is somewhere in the 150-250 range. Below that is shoddy construction, glare galore, focusing issues etc. I currently have vortex razor 10x42s and love them, definitely a step up in terms of low light performance and getting onto something small fast, but honestly until you really get better at birding there's not much of a point.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 25 Jul 2025 12:19:13 No.2831091 Report

Quoted By: >>2831156

I bought some 1940s Zeiss binos from an antique shop for cheap, they need a service but still great binoculars. Apparently in the war everyone wanted to capture a German officer so they could bag his binos because they were regarded as the best in the world.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 25 Jul 2025 13:51:46 No.2831099 Report

Quoted By: >>2831123

I put a sight notch on my camera instead, it makes it much easier to line up the lens with the bird. A 600mm birding lens can see farther than binoculars anyways unless you are spending 1000 dollars on binos.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 25 Jul 2025 15:23:51 No.2831123 Report

Quoted By:

>>2831099
>I put a sight notch on my camera instead, it makes it much easier to line up the lens with the bird
That sounds helpful, I might 3d print something.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 25 Jul 2025 18:14:20 No.2831156 Report

Quoted By:

>>2831091
>Apparently in the war everyone wanted to capture a German officer so they could bag his binos because they were regarded as the best in the world.
It's not like the war was started because other countries wanted some of Germany's technological advancement...

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 26 Jul 2025 02:42:50 No.2831219 Report

Quoted By:

>>2830405
Having briefly looked at a few, just casually, I can tell you glass quality (i.e.: lens transmittance - percent of light that doesn't get absorbed by the glass) is of the essence.
Cheaper ones will be notoriously dimmer; among trees/overcast/late in the afternoon you won't be able to see shit with cheaper ones.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Barska 25x-125x 88mm.jpg, 32KiB, 554x554

Anonymous Thu 31 Jul 2025 04:55:35 No.2832216 Report

Quoted By:

>>2830405

Get a spotting scope, they're far more powerful.

This Barska is 25x-125x for $185.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 Jul 2025 09:22:19 No.2832245 Report

Quoted By:

I have a pair of old metal binoculars from my dad that are good but I always end up taking my shittier plastic ones just because they're significantly lighter

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Aug 2025 02:26:10 No.2832650 Report

Quoted By:

>>2830405
You might consider a monocular, since it will accomplish the same task and save size/weight. I have a Vortex Solo 8x36 that I use more often than my actual binoculars (Nikon Monarch M7 8x42 and Nikon Monarch ATB 8x42) simply because it's so much more convenient to carry.

If you're set on binds, consider Vortex if you are buying used, simply because of the peace of mind with the warranty. Diamondback HD 8x42 or Viper HD 8x42 are good options. Try some out in a Cabela's, see what you think of the ergos and eye relief.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Aug 2025 04:49:28 No.2832675 Report

Quoted By:

So for spotting, you want a focal length longer than your lens?

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