/out/ - Outdoors » Thread #310187

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Anonymous Wed 30 Apr 2014 21:50:29 No.310187 View View Reply Original Report

Quoted By: >>310817

>try to install new bike chain
>dont have the tool
>already mangled a few links
>get tool week later
>fuck around for a bit
>get chain on
>way to much slack
>take out pull chain as close as i can to figure out how many links to remove
>remove them
>litterally same amount of slack
>try agian
>not very much slack but chain is skipping all over the place
>check for tight links
>lossen them
>chain still skipping and falling off
>tfw

what is the proper way of figuring out the correct chain length?

trial and error isnt working to well

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 30 Apr 2014 21:52:15 No.310188 Report

Quoted By:

should i just keep removing links until it stops skipping?

i already lubricated the hell out of everything

Mule

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO DSC06062-L.jpg, 160KiB, 800x600

Mule Wed 30 Apr 2014 22:03:07 No.310191 Report

Quoted By: >>310194 >>310356

Lay the old one out on the garage floor.
Lay the new one next to it.
Break new chain at same length as old chain, keeping in mind you'll have the master link in the loop.
Install new chain/master link. Remember to lube it appropriately.
???
profit

Pic kinda related, naptha works great

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 30 Apr 2014 22:10:09 No.310194 Report

Quoted By: >>310202 >>310754 >>310755 >>310757

>>310191
i guess i might have to try that
>master link

wat

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 30 Apr 2014 22:19:20 No.310201 Report

Quoted By: >>310217 >>310754 >>310755 >>310757

>tfw accidentally pushing pin all the way out
>tfw no way to get the fucker back in

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 30 Apr 2014 22:21:36 No.310202 Report

Quoted By: >>310203

How are you loosening tight links? Tight links generally mean it's fucked.

Also are you sure it's the right speed for your cassette?

>>310194

Masterlink joins the two ends of a chain, so you can remove it and reinstall it without a chainbreaker

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 30 Apr 2014 22:24:11 No.310203 Report

Quoted By:

>>310202
poking the gap beside the tight link with needle nose pliers

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 30 Apr 2014 22:45:29 No.310217 Report

Quoted By: >>310248

>>310201
Put a trigger warning on that shit, yo. Unequalled sweaty frustration.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 30 Apr 2014 23:40:39 No.310248 Report

Quoted By:

>>310217
Lel. May as well buy a new bike at this point.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 01 May 2014 03:47:23 No.310356 Report

Quoted By: >>310357 >>310358 >>310754 >>310755 >>310757

>>310191
>Lay the old one out on the garage floor.
>Lay the new one next to it.

>do this
>old is shorter but somehow has more links

i think i am to tired for this shit

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 01 May 2014 03:51:58 No.310357 Report

Quoted By: >>310365 >>310754 >>310755 >>310757

>>310356
sounds like you got the wrong chain pitch.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 01 May 2014 03:54:47 No.310358 Report

Quoted By: >>310365

>>310356
>old is shorter but somehow has more links
Let me fix that for you:

>new chain is not working because links are the wrong length
>need new new chain

Compare the length from pin to pin on the old and new chains. If it isn't the same, the chain won't work. It'll jump off your sprockets.

And, on a bike with multiple gears, you set chain length by shifting both derailleurs to their respective largest sprocket and making the chain just short enough to pull 1/4 to 1/2 inch or so against the spring on the rear derailleur that takes up the slack when you change gears.

It's not sprocket science.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 01 May 2014 03:56:40 No.310365 Report

Quoted By: >>310370

>>310358
>>310357
i got pissed off and just got it as close as i can

imma try it tomorrow probably will have to fuck around

not even sure if it is even on derailer properly

why does it have to be so hard

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 01 May 2014 04:02:30 No.310370 Report

Quoted By: >>310375

>>310365
>why does it have to be so hard

Because you're being impatient. Post a pic of chain installed on rear derailleur and I'll tell you if it's right. I assembled and repaired bikes for a couple of years going to college.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 01 May 2014 04:07:13 No.310372 Report

Quoted By:

Found a link for you with pictures, OP. Spend a few minutes reading it. Park Tools are the Proto of the bike repair trade. They know their shit. You can safely skip the part about shimano chains and peened links, it won't make a problem as you should be using a master link.

>http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-installation-derailleur-bikes

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_20140501_000848.jpg, 47KiB, 320x240

Anonymous Thu 01 May 2014 04:11:58 No.310375 Report

Quoted By: >>310377

>>310370

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 01 May 2014 04:17:16 No.310377 Report

Quoted By: >>310379

>>310375
Are you on the largest gear on each end? If so, you're probably 2 or 3 links short.

To be sure, shift to the smallest on each end and see if there's still movement in your tensioner (the bottom arm). If you have lots of movement left, you're too short. If it bottoms out, you have a problem because that tensioner gear is way forward.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 4thHand.jpg, 808KiB, 1358x1809

Anonymous Thu 01 May 2014 04:21:34 No.310379 Report

Quoted By: >>310754 >>310755 >>310757

>>310377
Oops, 1 or 2 links short. You don't want the tensioner to bottom or top out in any gear.

And it does look like you're routed correctly. If it's jumping off the sprockets when you're in gear, you probably have stretch in your shift cables and need to adjust them. If that's the case, let me know and I'll post adjustment instructions in the morning, it's bedtime for me. Do you have a fourth hand? Pic related. They're an essential bike tool and kick ass on zip ties as well.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 02 May 2014 01:15:49 No.310754 Report

Quoted By:

>darren_brown.jpg
mfw

>what is the proper way of figuring out the correct chain length?
Move the suspension to the point of greatest chain growth: this is typically bottom-out. Run the chain around the largest chainring and sprocket, but not through the derailer. The chain should overlap by one full link.

>>310194
A half-link composed of two outer plates which can be removed without a pin-driving tool.

>>310201
>Re-using pins
Enjoy your snapped chains.

>>310356
>>310357
>sounds like you got the wrong chain pitch.
Highly, highly unlikely. The only bicycle drivetrains to differ from the 12.7 mm standard pitch were Shimano's 'Pitch 10' systems, which were produced only for a brief time in the seventies and had a 10 mm pitch.

>>310379
>Do you have a fourth hand? Pic related. They're an essential bike tool and kick ass on zip ties as well.
If he indexes from the second-to highest cog then the fourth hand is unnecessary.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO rock eye roll.gif, 1MiB, 200x150

Anonymous Fri 02 May 2014 01:16:58 No.310755 Report

Quoted By:

>>darren_brown.jpg
>mfw
>>what is the proper way of figuring out the correct chain length?
>Move the suspension to the point of greatest chain growth: this is typically bottom-out. Run the chain around the largest chainring and sprocket, but not through the derailer. The chain should overlap by one full link.
>>>310194
>A half-link composed of two outer plates which can be removed without a pin-driving tool.
>>>310201
>>Re-using pins
>Enjoy your snapped chains.
>>>310356
>>>310357
>>sounds like you got the wrong chain pitch.
>Highly, highly unlikely. The only bicycle drivetrains to differ from the 12.7 mm standard pitch were Shimano's 'Pitch 10' systems, which were produced only for a brief time in the seventies and had a 10 mm pitch.
>>>310379
>>Do you have a fourth hand? Pic related. They're an essential bike tool and kick ass on zip ties as well.
>If he indexes from the second-to highest cog then the fourth hand is unnecessary.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO rock eye roll.gif, 1MiB, 200x150

Anonymous Fri 02 May 2014 01:18:10 No.310757 Report

Quoted By: >>310792

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 02 May 2014 02:59:15 No.310792 Report

Quoted By:

>>310757
>If he indexes from the second-to highest cog then the fourth hand is unnecessary.
Yeah, I agree. If he had one, I was going to tell him the "paid per bike so you do it fast" method. Still use second sprocket, just easier with the tool. Since OP hasn't been back we'll assume success.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 02 May 2014 03:41:19 No.310817 Report

Quoted By: >>310926

>>310187
Op. How old is the drive train? If the cassette has seen a lot of use throwing a brand new chain on it can sometimes cause the slippage and skipping you described. If you get the chain adjusted correctly and this stl happen you may want to consider a new drive train, esoecially if your botto bracket and front v chain rings are worn as well

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 02 May 2014 09:04:27 No.310926 Report

Quoted By:

>>310817
its a cheapo walmart bike

not work messing around with

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