>>408489Gold Tip arrows aren't bad for the price. As you get better you'll want to invest in quality arrows but when you're starting it's good to find a balance between cost-effective but still good since you'll probably lose some of them. Arrows are quite gifted at going into the grass in ways that make them hard to find unless maybe you have a metal detector. That's one reason to use vanes/feathers that are odd, bright colors like chartreuse, hot pink, or blaze orange.
If you have an archery shop nearby go there and have them fit you for a bow. The big box shops are hit and miss.
They'll measure your draw length which, for recurve, will affect your arrow length much more than the bow itself. For compound draw length will affect what your bow is set to and even what bow you can get since some may not go as low or high as someone needs.
For arrows, the shop can help you with that but usually they have a chart on the box or on the manufacturer's website that will help you choose. Spine weight - how flexy or stiff the arrow is - is chosen based on your draw weight, your bow style, and arrow length.
For arrowheads, you want to start using field tips. They're basically just pointed tips that can go into bag targets and such without doing a lot of damage. You won't be using actual arrowheads, broadheads, unless you decide to either hunt or do some 3D archery that would require broadheads.
Most arrows come fletched and the place you get them will often glue in the inserts for you. Then you just screw in the field tips. Make sure you get the same grain (weight) whenever you get them. 100 grain is kind of standard unless you want a heavier or lighter head for some reason. The grain will affect the bending (porpoising or fishtailing) of the arrow as it leaves the bow. If you want your arrow stiffer you'll put on a lighter tip.. if you want it to flex more you put on heavier.
